Gotallofthem

Do you own this unit yourself? Thanks

Yes I do have some revive,(I think I actually have their whole product line) Just to confirm, If I use any sort of polish, revive, ss,mp etc. I will have to re-seal, re-glaze and re-wax, correct?

So I went out to take some pics, I would say my camera is a decent camera, but I couldn't for the life of my get any of them in the pictures. I must have taken a dozen shots and the camera is not catching them. They are small about 1/5 of a dime size. There are a good amount of them scattered about. There were def some water spots on the hood prior to polishing it. Thats why I went to work on it hard to get them out. But the ones that were on the hood were Penny size spots and all over. These guys are much smaller and faint. I didn't want to try the clay again, as everytime I use clay it creates some small light scratches/marring, which I turn would mean I'd have to repolish. Thats what I was hoping to avoid. I know that If I use clay on them or if I try use some Revive, I figured that should remove them..... unfortunately I was hoping nto to re-glaze and re-wax, but DS, WW and soap and water arent doing the trick. Damn gotta get back to work on it again I guess.

Ok so this past Sunday I washed, then I went ahead a polished my car (needed some good amount of work). Then I sealed it put some glaze on it and finished it off with some caranuba. (all using adams products). Then we some passing showers on Monday and Tuesday. So I went ahead and gave the car a wash today, soaked it up first, then washed it down 2 bucket etc and dried it up. So I checked out the car and it had some small water spots on it, I'm guessing from the 2 day rain. So I tried to rewash the car seeing if the spots would come out, dried the car again and the spots were still there. (albiet small, but a good amount of them to be annoying). With that said what is the best recommendation on how to remove these spots (bear in mind that the car has been sealed, glazed, waxed). Do I have to repolish the car again? and if so wouldn't that remove the seal,glaze, wax? Help me out guys whats the recommendation? Thanks

Looks shiny, nice! and on an old 15 year old car

Yeah perhaps 200rpm is to lite, so I decided to go with a more "normal" drill, nothing quite as powerful as the one you mention, but hopefully it does the job.(bank account is getting drained, cant spend to much, just ordered mor adams stuff yesterday). I ordered a 19v cordless 650RPM drill with a 125in/lb torque, hope thats enough not to get bogged down Hmmm.. I checked out the makita website, and it seems that those drills have alot of torque, over 400, hopefuly my 125 torque will be good...

Well in terms of damage, it certainly isn't a really old car that's never been touched. But considering I'v only had it for about a month it does have water marks, bird etching, scratches (some fine some deeper), a chip, some holograms (guess the guy who cleaned this prior to me picking it up), and a bunch of swirls. So you were able to get really good results with the PC just required more passes sounds good. Thanks for your comments, I can't wait to get my tent in this week so I can try and fix my car. These damn water marks and bird marking and swirls are killing me. I will try and take some pictures before I start, and post and then take some pics when complete. I don't have a good high end camera, so I hope my phone can catch some good pictures. I guess then I will be able to see how satisfied I am with the results. (although I know nothing short of perfection will satisfy my need, damn this OCD, and desire to have things perfect:pc:)

Ok, so after reading another thread I found the follwoing quote by Adam: I am really disappointed if this is the case; I purchased a PC along with a "ton" of products from Adams, with the goal of making my brand new 2013 car, "perfect"(as perfect is it can be that is). I have only managed to use some of the washing detailing items so far (liquids). I used the PC for the first time yesterday to get a simple feel for the unit on a family friends car. His car was really old and I just wanted to try a little wet sand on a panel and see if a scratch would come out with the 4 focus and SSHR.(once again to get a feel). I will not be able to actually start a correction on my car until this weekend. As currently I do not have a garage, and my driveway is right under 2 trees that keep dropping pollen and some little green flowers all over my car and would be impossible to try to polish.(ugggg) So I purchased a 10x20 tent, so I can do my polishing this weekend (hopefully). But now I must say once again, just by reading that comment/quote above, my excitement has been dashed a bit. The thought of doing a lot of hard work and not being able to get the right awesome correction on my car. (regretting the PC purchase instead of the flex right now) So my question is: How can I get a "perfect" correction on my car, that does not involve purchasing another machine, as once again I just got the PC. Any thoughts? Was Adam's quote overblown? Is it possible to get a perfect correction with the PC? Do I need to purchase some stronger more abrasive compounds to use with my unit? Will I need to use more passes? Has anyone used the PC on a DARK Paint and have been able to achieve a "perfect" correction?

I dont have the adams wash mitts, but I have used other mitts from other brands. I have always had similar issues with other brands; because of this I no longer use wash mitts, micro/cotton/terry/wool etc anymore.

I believe that, the white pad is supposed to be for the Fine machine polish, so I would guess that the revive bottle can be used with that one (although it is supposed to be by hand using a hand applicator, dont know if you can really use it with the PC). The orange is for SHR, and the Black is for sealent, and yellow I'm not sure.

Alright, So the reason I was using the 4inch on the PC was to try and remove some scratches. After reading a couple of posts and seeing a couple of videos it seems that the best way to remove them would be using a Drill. So my drill is actually broken, so I was going to get a new one. Question is how strong of a drill do I actually need? I'm not going to lie, the thought of using a little "mini rotary" scares me. I am as I said new to this, but I want the scratch taken care of. So would a mini hand drill with 200 RPM/27 in. lbs be good enough to take out a scratch? Or do I need something with 650 Rpm/130 in. lbs? Of course the reason I am mentioning the 200 RPM drill, is once again, I figure there is a less chance of doing damage, but at the same time would it be enough to take out a scratch? Would using a 200 RPM drill be stronger then using my PC 4inc SSHR, at speed 4 which didn't seem to remove the scratch. Thanks

Excellent advice, worked perfectly, guess if it keeps getting stuck, I'll just use that combination. Also when using the 4" adapter/screw, do you use the spacer that came with the PC or is the Spacer only for the Full size backing plate. ?

Alright, I'm hoping someone here can give me a hand. So I just used my PCXP yesterday for the first time. I had attached the 4" adapter and plate, to use the pads. So I went ahead to try and put the large pad on and I can not get this adapter off. Now before anyone goes ahead and posts: Yes I did find this previous thread. http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/machine-polishing/12447-2.htm I'm not sure even if the op managed to fix his. Here is the Deal: The backing 4"inch plate is off. However, when I try to remove the Screw/Adapter, (the one that I simply put in by hand and didn't even lock in hard). I'm holding it with the pc wrench, but this thing seems to be bolted on here. Since it happened o the guy in the other thread, is this something I am to expect. Is the only way to try and put wd and hope that it loosens? I appreciate the help as this thing is brand new. Thanks

Ok so now I'm a bit confused here; I watched video that AJ put on (that convinced me to by adams products by the way). In the video he shows how to properly use the CaliDust. He says he uses it and doesn't get damage. Now on a previous post it was stated that it is "better" to use waterless wash. Well in the video he also shows how using a waterless wash also can create scratches. In the video he is very liberal with the liquid for display uses a waffel weave, has just dust on his car that he kicked up, and despite being liberal with the product, he gets these minor scarches In his video he states the secret is to remove as much dust before the waterless wash. So AJ recommends, The CaliDust and shows how it works great. So a combo seems to work best.

I look at the video listed, regarding claying stripes. Unless I missed it, I didn't hear anything about whether or not to clay strips. The first video was saying to "mask" the stripes on the edges. The second video on claying, you can see that the strips were completly covered. So am I to understand that "CLAYING" vinyl stripes (need to know as I plan on cleaning a MINI Cooper Bonnet Stripes) is a no no?? Thanks

Question, so using "fine machine" polish can cause swirl like holograms even though it is the last step and least abbrasive? If that is the case what would you use to remove them? The OP used "hand revive polish", but if you dont have that what would you use?

Yes I guess the combo would be machine sealant 30min, then glaze or Glaze minimal wait and follow up with butter/Americana. once again, using a pc pad on a non clayed car, no issues?

On that note, is it ok to do just a wash/dry/sealant/wax on a car that hos not been clayed? If using say the PC for sealant and wax, any harm to the pad? Thanks

From what I have read on other forums, people seem to recommend multiple passes in order to "fill" in the chips. Are you planning on putting some clear coat on top of the paint? I have the beautiful new black car and only had it for 3 weeks and I have a chip on it also. I was thinking of going with dr. colorchip, but I also saw that Applied Colors, has a similar system "kit". The one thing that I noticed about them is that they also give you some putty filler, in case you have a big scratch. I'm not sure which one to get?? Post your results

Wow I was just about to post this myself also as I have recently made my first order to adams. And I wanted to know just like you, if using the PC on a paint chip, if it would affect it negatively. Meaning Will it make the chip bigger or worse? I'm guessing that your question because that's what mine is. As my chip on my hood, is a good one, you can see that it took out the clearcoat and the paint, so the thought of a machine spinning on it and making it bigger scares me. To those in the know, please respond, thanks.