ralphsmithiii

Hey everybody, I wanted to share my first experience using Adam's Quick Sealant while detailing my fianaces 09 MB ML63 AMG. I put a set of 22' HRE Wheels in Satin Black on them about 8 months ago and they have slowly become somewhat dull and faded. I assumed it was due to just wear and tear as it's now her daily driver. I also wasn't sure if the fading was due to a series of wheel cleaners that I've used although all of them stated on the label they were safe for this type of finish. Anyhow, I do have an arsenal of detailing items including Adams Machine Super Sealant and now Adam's Paint Sealant. When I bought the Paint Sealant I opted to buy the Quick Sealant for areas I couldn't reach with the others. So, here's a before picture of one of the wheels that I just cleaned and dried. There's an overcast outside so the picture may not show the true dullness of the wheel. After pic without using applicator: If you look close enough you can see where I missed some of the wheel with the Quick Sealant to get an idea of the before/dullness. After using Adam's Hex applicator to work it into the wheel: Needless to say, I'm super happy with the end result. Again, with my iPhone on an overcast days the pictures don't really show the true before and after. I'm hoping it holds up but I suppose only time will tell.

Not that I can tell although they probably should of considering what I paid for it, hah! I believe they did try and upsell me on paint protectant, interior protect, etc..but I happily declined.

Awesome, thanks for the response! Question, I bought the new Paint Sealant although I do still have some older machine SS. Is there a specific reason to use the machine SS vs the Paint sealant other than not wasting the old product? I intend to apply either with my Flex.

Hey eveyone, before I posted I did a quick search for New Car and it returned no responses but I wanted to ask what I think is a general question. I picked up a new car a few weeks ago from the dealer and it needs to be clayed and sealed. From what I can tell it doesn't need to be corrected at all as its brand new (Pearl White) and I can't see any correction that needs to be done. Instead of waxing it after washing and claying, I was thinking of applying Adams Paint Sealant (I have the machine super sealant from a while ago) and then maybe throwing a coat of wax on top. The sealants I've used before seem to have more than enough gloss/shine for me and it's a brand new car. Thoughts? Do I need to prep the new paint before I seal it other than claying it?

Hmm...so I'm assuming if this is my daily driver, I'd have to use the waterless wash after every days worth of driving to keep it keep? What is or where is the "threshold" of when waterless wash isn't an option and a full wash is required? I've read that if you get caught in the rain then a full wash is needed but I'm not 100% clear on how often/when waterless wash is the method to use.

Very cool, thanks for the heads up and info. I'll be picking up some of the Waterless wash to check it out.

I did a strip wash when I did the paint correction but didn't think about doing it before applying the buttery. I also don't HAVE to do the glaze but lets be honest...I was looking for an excuse to break out this expensive Flex and put it to use Does the waterless wash REALLY work? I think I have over 1k worth of Adams products and its one that I've never used so I wasn't quite sure if it was worth purchasing at $25 a bottle.

It's also seen its fair share of dirt/rain in the two months since making it all shiny again.

I completed a 3-step paint correction, plus machine sealant, plus glaze, plus buttery about 2 months ago. I've only been washing my car every 2 weeks or so when I'm home to drive it. It's still pretty shiny but I wanted to add some more buttery to it. Just wanted to know if hitting it again with glaze prior is OK.

Hey everyone, wanted to ask a quick question. If I'm looking to do some post paint correction maintenance can I: Wash/dry car Hit it with detail spray (needed to get any dust off if it sets for a day or two?) Hit the car with Brilliant Glaze (Flex) Hit it with buttery wax (hand). Hit it like I mean it. I'm thinking of using the glaze to fill in any small imperfections (and I payed for it why not use it?) before I shine it up with some buttery. Thoughts?

Posted some finished pics here: http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/357635-post15.htm

Finally finished the exterior. Turned out pretty well. Still not 100% but it's getting closer each time. This was after: strip-wash clay polish (flex) machine sealant (flex) brilliant glaze (flex) buttery wax (hand) Tires may need to be knocked down a hair. I used svrt and a block to dress them. They don't look super shiny but I'm curious to see how they'll turn out if I hit the tires with a rag. Also, I apparently need to pick up some polish for my exhaust tips. They were once nice and shiny but need some loving I also hit my windows all the way around with the brilliant glaze and they came out awesome.

Awesome. I'm heading into the garage now to get the claying done tonight. Tomorrow morning I plan on polishing the entire car then sealing it. Day after I'll hit it with brilliant glaze, then some buttery and see how it comes out. Right now it looks surprisingly shiny and clean after just a strip-wash. I'm assuming there's still some machine super sealant on there giving it the shine. I'm hoping to see a night-and-day difference after re-polishing, sealing, glazing (first time) and buttery wax (first time).

Ok, that's something I don't think I've read yet. I've already got the car washed and did a strip-wash (used 2oz+/- of Adams all-purpose cleaner). So your saying I should IPA before clay?

OK. Should I hit it with IPA after clay and then after polish or just after polish? Adam's detail guide states to leave the clay residue on if it's not heavy and head right to polishing. However there is no recommendation (unless I missed it) about using IPA anywhere. That step was recommended in another post of mine. Or, should I clay, rewash, then polish, IPA, seal, etc..etc..

I'm about to go round-2 on my paint correction and I was getting ready for the next step. Before I start polishing, I am under the impression that we are to clay the car. My curiosity kicked in and I wondered...why? Is there a level of "roughness" that dictates a clay is in order if you are doing paint correction? Am I wrong in thinking that if I take my Flex and some compound (SSR, or FMP) to it that it'll knock down/off anything that a clay bar would as well? I don't mind the extra step and I have both Adam's clay bar and tons of detail spray but I was curious as to the "why" behind both. I clayed my car a few months ago but it using the baggie test, it glides but I can feel what appears to feel like sand here and there. Thoughts?

My Adam's care package arrived today and one day early Pics to follow in the next few days.

Well just placed another large order for my second round of Adams products. Picked up a few gallon refills, the bogo on the machine/wax pads, the turbo stick though I have the wheel woolies, some green wheel cleaner, brilliant glaze, buttery wax (will try the Americana later) and the Adams Metro Vac mini blower. Also threw in some of their tape to replace my blue 3M tape and the yellow hand applicator to apply the buttery. Because I'm in Florida I hope to see this shipment sometime early next week and if the weather is anything like it is now, it'll be an awesome time to really get a solid paint correction/detail in. Thanks for all of the suggestions and I'll be posting some more before and after pics including using the brilliant glaze and buttery after I correct some more of the paint.

Right on. I'm thinking after doing all of the correction, sealing and glazing with the Flex a more intimate hands-on application of buttery would be more ideal.

Is the best method or only method for that matter to apply this with a hand applicator versus say a Flex with a red pad?

Right on and it makes sense with the tape, I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. I ended up buying a gallon of distilled water and the 91% IPA so I'll end up cutting it down some for my first go around.

Ok, found my answer on the IPA wipe down. This detailing pro's suggestion was: "If you’re using it after polishing or inspecting, you may want to use it full strength. If you’re just doing a wipedown and want to go straight to a wax or sealant application, then you may want to use it 50/50 to reduce the chances of streaking.? Also he suggested to mix it, if diluting with distilled water. Is that correct?

Thanks for all of the replies. Few questions. What entails a IPA wipe down exactly? Am I mixing alcohol with water 1:1 in a sprayer bottle and hitting the entire car with a MF towel? Also with taping, I picked up some painters tape (the blue kind) from Home Depot. When I use it and tape off a section, whenever I run the polisher over the tape it ends up leaving "taped" lines on the clear when I remove the tape. Is that considered normal? It's easy to take off with a quick run of the polisher over the lines but I swore in the Adams video's when he removes the tape there aren't any lines. Maybe I shouldn't run over the tape but close to it? Again, thanks for the great advice!

Hey everyone, I'm getting ready to go for round 2 in doing a full paint correction of my 2007 LeMans Blue Z06. I've got an entire week (or month) if needed to get it done and do it 100% correct this time. My paint is in pretty good condition considering its over 5 years old. It does have some now minor/medium swirl marks as well as still some spotty/pitted clear coat due to some hard water etchings. I haven't decided if I'm going to have it wet sanded or try and level the clear with my Flex and an abrasive polish and see if that works. I have a full arsenal of Adam's products to work with. If you name it, I probably own it when it comes to paint correction, interior and exterior detail However, what I don't own is any of the products beyond the machine super sealant, meaning the brilliant glaze, buttery and Americana wax products. My car still looks glossy from doing my first correction 3 or so months ago but it never was corrected 100% to my satisfaction due to time. If I wanted to do a second go around, what would be the best route to take. Do I need to strip off the old sealant or I'm assuming after I wash and re-clay it, hit it with either SSR, SHR, or FMP that'll take the sealant off. Would this affect the pads if there's sealant already applied as in "clogging the pads with sealant". Then, should I pick up some brilliant glaze (to make fill in some of the imperfections, as well as add more shine) and/or either some buttery or Americana to make it last? If I'm going to dedicate a few days on getting this right, I want to make sure I'm taking the correct steps and using ALL of the right products.

Because I have two of the Adams large drying towels, I don't mind touching the paint myself. I have faith and have not seen any noticeable scratching from them thus far. I was originally considering getting the mini-blaster to really get the water out and polishing dust (haven't mastered polishing yet to not produce zero dust) out of all of the cracks and crevices. Even with my leaf blower there's still water in some places after hitting the entire car with it. I have one of those Stinger Home Depot brand mini vacuums that I bought years ago but it's not very good at all. I like the idea of having a wall-mounted vac with a extended hose so I'm really trying to nail down the best solution(s) for vacuuming and drying the car (cracks, mirrors, wheels, etc).