WhatsUpDoc

It's not too tough, but you do need to extend the header. You'll have to cut out enough drywall to re-install the header, then patch and repaint the hole. On the outside do you have siding? Vinyl or aluminum? With a zipper and a pair of snips, it's easy to pull only the siding you need--if it's vinyl anyway--then cut and re-install. Whatever is under the siding--most likely plywood--can just be cut away with a sawzall. Watch out for the insulation. Regarding the header, you should pull the old one and replace it with a full length, one piece replacement. By one piece, I of course mean lengthwise. For headers we normally nail together 2 2x's with a 1/2" piece of plywood between them for spacing. On the modified side: make sure there's a jack under one end to hold the weight, then another stud that extends all the way to the top plate. You might be able to re-use the one you remove. It's really a 2 person job, so find yourself a strong buddy who will work for beer.

Hey Rich, I feel you on this one. I blew a u-joint on my truck a few weeks back and was forced to drive the vette on the dirty roads for a few days ...so naturally I was forced to detail it again I've heard, though, that it's not good to fire up these motors mid-winter and just let them idle. If you start them, you're supposed to at least drive a little bit. Something about heating/cooling cycles and the way the motor handles it. I wish I had more details, but I don't know! I'm just a chemist...

Brian, I just received one of those brushes today, and I'm telling you...order it now while you can! The head is freakin huge! And soft of course. I can't wait to try it out this weekend

I added a 2008 Z06 corvette to my [truck] insurance and it only went up $200/year. Maintenance will be less if driven less frequently... Suggestion: Keep both and don't make BIG sacrifices until there's a ring on that finger!

use straight (or diluted 1:1) APC and a rag to clean the black plastics and rubber. it makes a huge difference and will get all that old junk off! then put some super VRT on and you won't believe your eyes! it will look like new

1) DS 2) Microfibers / Revitalizer 3) SVRT It's all I need...

I need to start checking this page daily...

welcome. there is no slowing down

Nice! What did you use to apply the 1:1 SVRT to the bedliner with? I assume you didn't do it with a 4" piece of foam...

GM also made up for it with a more bad *** motor... I never get caught at a red light in mine, I can be 1/4 mile from the yellow light and still make it through

I don't know about their pressure washers...but I used to love Craftsman products until they started outsourcing to China. Now everything I get from them is as poor quality as expected. I would bet that for light use, it might hold up, but it won't last a lifetime.

Time for a 5 gallon APC daily special?

you need a Master Blaster!!!

Glass Sealant | Best Glass Sealant | Car Detailing Supplies this stuff is awesome! although expensive, this little bottle lasts a LONG time

10% off with the forum discount code!

Not to hijack the thread...but is it important to use the same pad for polish #1 each time, or can you just clean both pads and use either for #1 or #2 without concern?

After my first round of 16 oz bottles, I moved straight to gallon refills for everything but SVRT. 1 gal = 128 oz so if you do the math it's normally about a 50% savings per oz. Also, check this out for more savings: Adam's Essential Pack - 1 Gallon Refills I believe they will work with you on substituting different products in the 4 pack as well.

I win

Dilute your APC 1:1. It still works great. I read somewhere that it's 4X more concentrated than comparable cleaners (I'm assuming things like Simple Green). Question 2: I would highly recommend claying first if it hasn't been done recently. You'll be surprised how much this helps! If you check out the detailing videos that Adam's put out, they show you how to tell if you need to clay by using a plastic bag. Then revive, QS, and wax would be the right order. Personally, I love the Americana paste wax, although I've never tried buttery.

Also to aide in bug removal, a pre-soak with WW really does help

Quick Sealant!

My goal is to clean, polish, and protect a TracRac similar to this: TracRac Features / Overview | TracRac Under the description, it states that the 2 materials are powdercoated and anodized aluminum. Cleaning will be done as part of a strip wash and for final protection I will just use quick sealant. My question is: should I polish with Revive? MP1&2 should not be used on powdercoated or anodized aluminum, correct? Thanks

Most parts washers designed for a home garage use water-based solvents. Has anyone tried Adam's APC, or a mixture thereof, instead of "parts washer solvent"?

if you are even considering buying them, then definitely hit up the BOGO for at least a pair of these and see for yourself! besides, if you aren't completely satisfied, they are covered by the 110% satisfaction guarantee! you really can't lose...

Ivan, It does take a little effort to remove from paint and glass, but it's not as hard as other brands. I like to use a small shot of detail spray on my rag to assist with removal.