Norton

I miss the days when Adam's was focused on what made the company great - outstanding detailing products and exceptional customer service. 

Recent emphasis seems to be on endless "flavors of the day," clothing, tchotchke, etc. 😢

13 hours ago, kyri said:

Hi new member here..I'm nrw to the detailing world🙆🏻‍♂️looking to buy the metroblaster revolution... Would you guys recommend this product or is there another make or model that you guys woukd recommend..

It's hard to beat MetroVac's products, but they're not cheap.  Adam's offers both the Master Blaster Revolution, to which I assume you refer, and the Super Vac N Blaster, that I have in my garage.  The airflow from both is incredible. They're great machines that are American-built to last. Highly recommended.

13 hours ago, DeDonDeRosa said:

Does anyone know where i can still get leftover stock of the adams leather conditioner. not the new spray stuff. if anyone has any they want to sell either. thanks 

54 minutes ago, falcaineer said:

It's possible local distributors still have some.

 

Do you not like the spray? Just curious... I've found it's super easy to use and actually like it more.

Answer from another long-time user of traditional Leather Conditioner is an emphatic NO, I don't.  IMO, moving from the original to a spray formula is an example of "fixing" something that wasn't broken.  I'm disappointed to see so much (unnecessary) tinkering with the product line since ownership changed.  

20 hours ago, 01GreyStangGT said:

Has anyone had trouble with the 16oz bottles of Tire and Rubber Cleaner leaking from the bottom? I had a bottle leak in my detailing cabinet and thought maybe the bottle had gotten old and leaked. I bought 2 more on my latest order and the brand new bottles are leaking out the bottom also. Any others having this problem? I transferred the product into an IK sprayer but this seems to be a problem.

Not sure it means much, but my experiene does not mirror yours.  My son and I have had multiple bottles of Tire & Rubber Cleaner in our detailing cabinets for years, without a drop of leakage.

On 4/28/2023 at 1:26 PM, Tim said:

I still have six or so cans left. 😀

  Thankful for Adam's assistance in acquiring a case around the time it was going out of stock.  

On 4/28/2023 at 7:23 PM, BrianT said:

Just used quick sealant on my summer rims last week!  

I still use it on my daily driver as well.  

On 4/21/2023 at 7:48 AM, UTVol said:

I was going to take the wheels off the car and do a thorough cleaning.  I have 2 (I think full) bottles of some Adams Quick Sealant that I was debating on using.  I also have some Advance  Graphene Spray.  Any opinion on what what will end up with less time on cleaning my wheels?  I know both are good.  I do have the satin black finish on my wheels and some really hearty metallic brakes on this car.

 

Looking forward to the opinions.

What do you mean by "Adams Quick Sealant"?  Adam's hasn't made/offered "Quick Sealant," which came in aerosol cans, in years. 

9 hours ago, Mick said:

I couldn’t revive polish for sale. Did they replace it with something else ?

Looks like the never-ending rename, relabel, repackage merry-go-round replaced Revive Hand Polish with "Adam's Hand Polish."  (Notably, its URL still includes "revive-fine-hand-car-polish.")  It shows as available in 12oz and 4oz bottles directly from Adam's site.

I suppose it makes me a dinosaur, but I miss the good old days of simple and stable product offerings that lasted more than the current sale.

6 hours ago, falcaineer said:

 

Thanks, Steve! Have one I can swing by and borrow? 😁

As a matter of fact, I do and you're welcome to.  I just need to find it... 

If your individual tools don't list power requirements in their specifications, I suggest using something like a P3 P4400 Kill A Watt Electricity Usage Monitor to measure actual power consumption in typical use cases.

You might try some of their resellers.  I have no first-hand experience with them, but Long Island Detailers claims to have them in-stock.  

Alternatively, have you tried different size/shape Woolies and/or Brushes?

20 minutes ago, Steveinnorthglenn said:

Thank you for the guidance. I hit the lights with Adam’s polish, a white pad on my SK micro on speed 4. I worked the polish with light pressure (maybe a half-pound, the pad was barely squishing) until the polish was diminished. 2x passes and the result is almost perfect. I’m going to hit it one more time before I wipe it down and ceramic coat it. 

14 minutes ago, Steveinnorthglenn said:

And for the record, here’s my b-pillar. Hit it many times with the SK micro on speed 6. Compound + blue pad for the first few passes, then switched to polish + white pad for several passes. This car is 12 years old… 

Looks great! 

As you know, it's less about their age than the care they receive.  My 10 year old Shelby shines brighter today than when I drove her off the showroom floor...

13 minutes ago, Steveinnorthglenn said:

I’m working on my BMW- and I’ve polished the heck out of everything. It’s shining like new, but I’m struggling with the tail lights. 
 

I am using Novus plastic polish, my SK Micro, and a white polishing pad. Polished like 4x and still have noticeable spider webs. 
 

Adam’s compound and polish did a miracle job on the piano black plastic trim (windows and b-pillars) so I’m considering using these products on the tail light lenses. 
 

I’m hesitant because the dang tail lights are expensive it I botch them. 
 

Should I use Adam’s  compound and polish on the tail lights?

Yes.  I polish my lenses as if they're paint.  Never had a problem. 

As with most things, YMMV.

17 hours ago, The Guz said:

I have never once clayed a coating and had no need to clay.  Adams seems to be the only one to recommend it.  There is always that risk of marring especially on soft paints.  

 

A chemical decon and 3 pH wash always works for me to keep a coating performing strong.  

3 hours ago, Trap said:

Would the clay mitt be as safe as the fine grade clay bar. 

No.  As described on their site, Adam's Clay Mitt "is a medium grade clay material." (Emphasis added.)

11 hours ago, galaxy said:

So I’m with Turk on this one!  Why?  Because for me and my eye, I always achieved better visual results with the spray than I did with the bottle. Why? No earthly idea. None. But I did it with the original ceramic and again with the graphine, and the spray for me always achieved the better look. I did eventually stop using tbt bottle and went spray once a year, but, I had great results using the spray on top of the liquid ceramic. 
 

I'm not arguing with your results, but you could have saved yourself time and money by just going with the spray after your initial finding that it looks better.  I can't think of any good reason to spend extra time and money applying two ceramic coats.  Use the ONE that works best for you and maintain it properly until it needs to be PROPERLY reapplied.  

1 hour ago, turk said:

Thank you. non-spray version don't need topper?

I didn't say that, but probably should have.  IMO, you're over-thinking this. 

Ceramic coatings don't need "toppers" because they ARE toppers.  What they need is proper care.  This comes in the form of cleaning, boosting, and (if available) garage storage.  Your "topper" question is most closely related to boosting, for which I recommend something like Graphene Detail Spray or Graphene Boost.  Applying a "lesser" (spray) coating on top of the "better" (non-spray) one is counter-intuitive to me.  Moreover, ALL coatings should be applied to properly prepared (i.e., cleaned, clayed, polished, and alcohol/prep wiped) surfaces.  That doesn't mean using spray versions as "toppers."  

Welcome to AF! 

Why would you want to use a "lesser" spray coating on top of the "better" non-spray version? IMO, Graphene Detail Spray or Graphene Boost are better-suited for such use.

Don't think you can "detail" away years of sun fade.  Suspect your best option is to repaint.

Interesting.  "Legacy" Detail Spray doesn't play well with my coated vehicles, requiring a bit of elbow grease to buff off the streaks.  

I haven't used Slick & Slide, because all my vehicles are ceramic coated, so I have no first-hand experience with it.  Its description as a "hyper-slick polymer detail spray" tells me it's more suited to use on surfaces protected by Sealant than Ceramic Coatings.  

My best advice is to not over-think this.  Graphene ceramic coatings are the most durable and hydrophobic top coatings Adam's sells for non-professional detailers like most of us.  IMO, they provide the most bang-for-the-buck.  If you're using a graphene ceramic coating, you should choose complementary products that optimize its appearance and maximize its lifespan.

Graphene ceramic coatings are most appropriately left as top coatings, occasionally wiped down with graphene detail spray or application of graphene booster.  When properly installed and cured, ceramic coatings prevent most things from bonding to them.  If you can get them to "stick," Patriot and H2OGG would actually be steps backwards in protection and shine. 

For your stated use on graphene ceramic coated surfaces, I recommend products that clean and/or extend the life of the graphene coating, like Graphene Shampoo, Graphene Detail Spray, and Graphene CS3.  

How frequently do you want to use it?  Why?

Unless you properly prep the surface, the coating isn't going to bond properly.  

20 hours ago, Fit08 said:

I hear you on the white as the car I was on was white. I didn't use the compound long enough to notice residue issue at this time. Removal of residue in the area I did do seemed normal.

 

What level of correction were you guys after, enhancement or little more, but not perfection as DD?

 

Yes white is a treat eh, but also nice as it can hide more to a degree verse dark colors I feel.

You nailed it - he was looking for enhancement or little more, but not perfection.  

Comletely agree regarding light vs dark colors.

I don't have an explanation for you, but a friend and I spent last Saturday washing, dressing, claying, polishing, and coating his '07 GT500.  He's the second owner and I don't think the car had this done previously, so we went with Compound and Microfiber Pads.  No balling-up at all, but we did note a bit of elbow grease required to wipe polishing residue off.  Didn't help that his car is white, so it hid a lot until/unless looking at just the right angles.  While the Compound did a good job correcting, I did not like how (reltively) difficult residue removal was. 

IIRC, they stopped making it because EPA regulations became too onerous.

It works well and I prefer it over just about anything else for certain jobs.  Glad I picked-up a case before it was gone.

1 hour ago, Brilliant Glaze said:

I have used wizard products, Mc Kees,

Surf city, Meguiars, Mothers, to name a few and Adam's Brilliant Glaze is the best product I have found.

Thanks for the best yet.

I agree, that BG is a good product, but it's not a polish.