Jump to content
Customer Service 866.965.0400

Norton

Members
  • Posts

    792
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    29

Everything posted by Norton

  1. I agree with @Rich - your paint need not be "perfect" for whatever LSP you choose to use. The important thing is that you're happy with the way it looks and that the surface is clean/prepped for LSP application, so it bonds properly. Whatever you choose - Ceramic Spray, Graphene Spray, Sealant, or Wax - should enhance shine, provide some protection for the (corrected) paint, and simplify cleaning.
  2. Not sure I understand the "problem." I suggest adding more water to the buckets.
  3. Aside from Eco All Purpose Cleaner, of which I'm not a fan, this mirrors my experience.
  4. I haven't found anything that works better than cleaning, polishing, and ceramic coating them. They still get dirty, but cleanup is quicker and easier.
  5. Given this clarification of your intended application, I recommend CS3 or Ceramic Waterless. Graphene Detail Spray and Ceramic Boost are less-than-optimal for this use. Agree with CS3, but don't think Graphene Detail Spray is a good option for the clarified application... "Unlike Adam's CS3, Graphene Detail Spray™ is designed to work best on a clean, freshly washed surface and is not intended to act as a type of waterless wash."
  6. I agree with Michael's assessment, that Wheel Cleaner is not required as often with coated wheels. (I rely on a spray bottle of dilluted Car Shampoo most of the time.) That said, I've had no problems using it AS DIRECTED on multiple sets of ceramic coated wheels. The answer to your question is, therefore, you CAN use it as needed.
  7. In addition to what Rich said and based on the title of this thread, I'd offer that I'm not a fan of original Detail Spray on top of ceramic. In my experience, it tends to leave a residue and streaks. I get better resutls with something designed for use with ceramic like Graphene Detail Spray, Ceramic Boost, CS3, etc.
  8. Dave and Rich are spot-on. As usual, stick with the least aggressive approach that yields the result you want. I haven't seen it produced in years but, if you can find it, Adam's Clear Polish (designed and formulated for vinyl wraps and PPF) works well.
  9. I've never had any problems polishing PPF, but I recommend sticking with the least aggressive approach that yields the result you want. I haven't seen it produced in years but, if you can find it, Adam's Clear Polish (designed and formulated for vinyl wraps and PPF) works well.
  10. I agree, Jimmy! I'm a big fan of Adam's and the detailing products for which he and his company are known - have been for many years. Understand the desire to grow, but not when it comes with diversification into (largely) unrelated areas/products. (I get that detailing products and lubricants are both used on/in motor vehicles, but...) IMO, this results in brand dilution. There was a time when I proudly used nearly every product Adam's sold, but those days are long gone. I can't keep-up with the constant flow of new/different stuff, especially when it's not for detailing. I'm loyal to Adam's for my detailing needs and I like having autographed Adam's sign in my Man Cave, but I'm comfortable with Amsoil for my automotive lubrication needs. 🍻
  11. Will I have to remove the wax before applying the Graphene Spray Coating? Yes. Coatings bond best to prepped (i.e., "naked") paint. Being nervous about applying ceramic, which is better or rather which product lasts longer, Adams wax or the Graphene? Graphene What are the steps I would need to take if were to apply the Graphene on a vehicle that had Buttery Wax applied about a month ago? Strip Wash and Surface Prep Do you have to use the Ceramic Coating first before you apply the Graphene Spray Coating? No. Graphene is applied directly to the paint.
  12. Swirl marks can usually be polished out. DA/Orbital polisher is the way to go. Adam's has everything you need at https://adamspolishes.com/collections/polishing-paint-correction-detailing, along with tutorial videos at https://www.youtube.com/user/Adamspolishes/videos, including one appropriate for your circumstance...
  13. Happy to help, Chris! It's an "oldie," dating back to the Shine Doc days, but remains very useful. (You saw my GT500's matte stripes before ceramic, so you know it works too.)
  14. Welcome, OP! I recommend following the advice in this video. I also found Adam's Matte Detailer useful before I ceramic coated my whole car, including the matte stripes. (Yes, matte vinyl looks great even when ceramic coated.) The products I found most useful were Brilliant Glaze (to clean), light polish (if required), VRT (to protect), and Matte Detailer (to "level" the VRT). Note that matte vinyl CAN be LIGHTLY polished without making it glossy. I did so a number of times, as described in the video, relying on nothing more aggressive than (what used to be called Fine Machine or Finishing) Polish on a Blue Hand Applicator or White (machine) Pad. Doing so helped remove minor imperfections. Obviously, YMMV.
  15. I agree that doesn't look "right" for coated performance and, in my experience, your supposition is spot-on - even coated vehicles don't bead as well when covered with contaminants. Surface prep is crticial to getting good results - probably more important than the actual coating used. Your process looks good though, as others said, those shampoos aren't the best for simply cleaning or "stripping" the vehicle. For those functions, I rely on Adam's Car Shampoo and Adam's Strip Wash or a little Dawn Dish Liquid, respectively. (If using Dawn, do so sparingly and only when you're re-correcting and re-coating. Don't use it in the sun and don't let it linger/dry on the vehicle.) FWIW, you probably don't need to use "degreaser and apc plus the panel wipe." I use Adam's Surface Prep or diluted isopropyl alcohol to wipe down following correction. I use Adam's Ultra Foam to clean/wash coated vehicles, blow dry them, and Adam's Ceramic Boost (or a competitor's Quick Detailer) as the final drying step. (I intend to try Adam's Graphene Detail Spray for this, but have not done so yet.) FWIW, here are some pics of my truck, coated with Adam's (original) Ceramic Spray Coating... Other shampoos (see above and below) work better for maintaining a coated vehicle. Repeating myself, but surface prep is crticial to getting good results. Great info here!
  16. Interesting. I've been a steady customer for many years and don't recall anything leather scented except the conditioner itself and air freshener "disks." Like you, however, I don't like hanging stuff like that in my cars. The leather scented odor neutralizer must have been very short-lived. Ironically, there's another company that offers a "Leather Scented Air Freshener and Odor Eliminator." It may not be identical to Adam's Leather Conditioner smell, but it's close enough in absence of a comparable Adam's product.
  17. +1. While they've offered Air Fresheners in this scent, I'm still waiting for the Odor Neutralizer version.
  18. Nice GS, OP! @falcaineer is spot-on. That's exactly what happened with the matte black stripes on my Shelby. I remain pleased enough with the result over two years later that I immediately coated my C7Z when I got it. These aren't the best shots/angles of the Shelby, but they highlight the stripes... No matte stripes here, but the CBF stinger is coated and looks great.
  19. Neither I nor Adam's said you CAN'T use their coatings without machine polishing. It is, however, axiomatic that the appearance and longevity of a coating are directly related to the quality of preparation. Hand polishing will never match what's possible with machine. If I'm going to spend the time and money to install a multi-year coating, I want the BEST possible paint condition sealed-in underneath it. That means a (multi-stage) machine polish. What I said was... I stand by my comments.
  20. With all due respect, I disagree. So does Adam's Facebook account where they posted "Preparation is key when applying Graphene Ceramic Coating™. With the proper steps to prep your surface you can get 7+ years of protection..." earlier this evening. I guarantee "proper steps to prep your surface" don't include hand polish.
  21. You can do that but, for best results, you should wash, clay, machine polish, wipe down, and then coat. Whether you wax, seal, or coat, surface prep is everything. You'll never get the best result with hand polish.
  22. Ceramic offers the best protection and longevity. If you're really against that, @falcaineer suggests some other viable options. In my experience, however, Paint Sealant provides good protection and longevity that minimize the need to reapply throughout winter months.
×
×
  • Create New...