Norton

With all due respect, that sounds like a personal problem. If you can't stand using the "obsolete" stuff you bought last week, there's always The Garage Sale Forum where you can trade/give it away...

R&D is never-ending, so there will ALWAYS be newer "better" products. Why wouldn't you just use what you have on-hand (that still works just like it did before the new stuff debuted) and, then, buy new stuff? 🤔

Spot-on product recommendations. With all due respect to my friend, Adam, I prefer Ashley's video from a few years ago... 😉 +1. The key to easy engine detailing is doing it regularly, so the dust, dirt, etc never builds-up.

An orbital polisher is exactly what you WANT to use since they're "random," by definition. Rotary polishers should be avoided. FWIW, my 8-year old GT500 has matte-finish vinyl stripes and I HAVE used my orbital polisher on them with no ill-effects. The "harshest" products I used to do so were white foam pads and Fine Machine Polish (when it was available). Doing so can remove minor blemishes, stains, water spots, etc. Generally, however, I used a combination of VRT and Matte Detailer, both hand-applied. If you haven't seen it, this video provides great insight on caring for factory vinyl stripes. I've since ceramic-coated the whole car, including the stripes, making maintenance a lot simpler.

The wheels on my C7Z are powdercoated. Like @BRZN, I use wheel cleaner on them with no problems. The key is using the product correctly. It should never be applied to hot wheels, not in direct sunlight, and not allowed to dry on the wheels. I work on one wheel-at-a-time, allowing the Tire & Rubber Cleaner a bit of contact time, but I limit Wheel Cleaner contact time and rinse completely when I'm finished agitating with Wheel Woolies, Boar's Hair Brush, and a Lug Nut Brush. As usual, recommend testing the products on an inconspicuous area before applying them widely.

Good point! I sometimes forget it's also sporting ceramic now. While the shine is harder to capture on silver, ceramic protects it and makes it as easy to clean as the other cars.

Good luck, OP! Once you've removed the sap/tar, you should consider ceramic coating your car instead of waxing it. I realize it's more expensive and a bit more work, but the increased protection is worth the investment... Shortly after ceramic coating my black-on-black '13 GT500 a couple of years ago, I participated in a local car show. Without knowing it, I was staged downwind from a maple tree that was weeping sap into the steady breeze. By the time I figured out what was going on, hours in the bright summer sun had passed, baking the misted sap onto the entire car. Figuring I was looking at claying, re-correcting, and re-coating the car, I began by washing it (2-buckets, Adam's Car Shampoo, and an Adam's Wash Pad). Much to my surprise (and elation) the baked-on sap came off with a simple. standard wash - the car was as smooth and shiny as it was right after coating! I'm relatively certain things would have been much different with wax as LSP. Both my toys and wife's daily driver are now ceramic coated. My Shelby and wife's 340ix were coated a couple of years ago, while my C7Z was done about two months ago...

I thought there was an Audi R8 in the Retail Area during February's Pizza Party & Grand Re-Opening?

+1. Detail Spray is the better option.

Nicely done! Is there any thought to offering a Home Surface Cleaner that's as effective against emerging viral pathogens as the (75% alcohol) hand sanitizer? (According to the CDC, available evidence indicates benzalkonium chloride has less reliable activity against coronavirus than ethanol or isopropanol.)

Truer words were never spoken. I've maintained my 2013 GT500 with Adam's products since I drove it off the showroom floor in 2012. It was ceramic coated in 2018.

In light of this development, Adam decided to cancel this event. With all due respect, 18/19 Mar is not 4 Apr - No one was "having any gatherings at all right now... for any reason." Until today's announcement from Gov Polis, it would have been premature to cancel something not scheduled to take place for over two weeks. Now that "public gatherings of more than 10 people" have been banned for 30 days, Adam made the decision to cancel the Clinic scheduled to take place a little over two weeks from now.

I'm communicating with Adam about the Clinic which, as of now, remains on the schedule. (Such events are usually held outdoors and/or in a large warehouse, where "social distance" is easily maintained.) Will post updates as they become available...

Bumping as reminder of upcoming Detail Clinic - Please RSVP if you plan to attend, so Adam's can staff appropriately.

The Colorado Shelby Club is, again, partnering with Adam and his team to organize a Spring Detail Clinic at HQ (8225 North Valley Hwy, Denver, CO 80221-4810) on Saturday, 4 Apr, at 10AM, immediately following Lafayette Cars & Coffee. ALL years, makes, and models are welcome! There is no cost. Unless you decide to buy something, attendance is FREE! Clinics usually last a couple of hours, but everyone is welcome to come when they can and free to leave when they must. Just show up, socialize, and learn. PLEASE RSVP NLT 28 MAR SO ADAM'S CAN STAFF APPROPRIATELY.

The entire PC setup I had did, indeed, come from Adam's.

I've used Adam's products for a long time, during which I've seen polishing systems come and go. IIRC... 3-steps (green, orange, and white) went to 2-steps (orange and white). Then, we went back to 3-steps (blue, orange, and white). Now, we're back to 2-steps (blue and white). Somewhere in there, a 1-step (purple) option also became available. This can be confusing (and a bit frustrating when you've invested in pads/polishes). The good news is Adam's R&D is ongoing - each new generation/product (line) improves on the previous one. That said and with all due respect to the company's desire for sales, I've never stressed over the upgrades or found it necessary to discard products I have in favor of what's "new." As long as they remain serviceable, you should finish what you have on hand before migrating to new stuff. More importantly, we've always had the option of mixing/matching polishes and pads as desired/needed - as long as they're still serviceable, "old" pads work just fine with "new" polishes. (e.g., When working on my wife's BMW several years ago, I found that blue Heavy Correcting Compound on an orange Correcting Pad was the "right" combination to correct the damage, followed by orange Correcting Polish on another orange Correcting Pad to "finish" the job. Neither MF nor blue pads were required.) The best guide when integrating new products into your routine is to always use the least aggressive means to achieve the finish you want. With that in mind and when you've exhausted your existing polishes/pads, I recommend buying both the new Compound and Polish, along with their respective color-coded pads. Working on a test area of your vehicle, see if Polish and its pad achieve the look you want. If so, finish the job with them, knowing that Compound is available if/when you get deeper swirls/scratches. If not, migrate to the more aggressive Compound on its pad (or a MF pad), knowing you may need to perform a second step Polish when you're done Compounding. (FWIW, I don't worry about Finishing Polish/Pads on anything but my show cars. Correcting Polish/Pads always gets me what I want on the daily drivers.) Based on @falcaineer's description, it sounds like the new Compound delivers results against damage that previously required Heavy Correcting Compound while finishing better than Correcting Polish, thanks to the chemical geniuses at Adam's!

Ray's advice is solid. FWIW, however, I've detailed all the BMWs we've owned over the past 15yrs, including our current 2018 340ix M Sport, and have never had any problem using Adam's products (including undiluted APC) under the hood. It goes without saying you should only detail when the car (and engine) are cool, not in direct sunlight, and don't let the chemicals dry in place, as staining may result.

Yes - that's the Dan you met and I agree, besides Adam himself, @Dan@Adams Txxxx is THE Adam's rep with whom I prefer to deal - hands down, the best!

I've encountered minor color variations in several products over the years I've used Adam's chemicals. Such things are more common if/when the chemicals undergo large temperature transitions, as they might during shipment, if they're stored in a garage, etc. In my experience, such variations usually don't signal a product update, unless separately announced.

Some pictures might help give you the best advice. +1. You can also mix & match pads/polishes (Heavy Correct on an Orange Pad, Correcting Polish on a Blue Pad, etc) for a little more/less correction, as needed.

Yes and no, respectively.

Interesting. I've had H2OGG separate, but never Wash & Wax. Shaking the H2OGG always recombines it, and it seems to work fine. Given the "couple years old" age of yours and the fact that it isn't recombining when shaken, it's probably time to replace it.

FWIW, I've never covered anything and I've never had a problem, but I'm careful about where I spray water and what I let get wet. You should be fine if you use low pressure spray and stay away from the fuse box, electrical connections, and the air intake.

+1. I've found all three products to work similarly on both Husky and WeatherTech mats.