Shermanator

Anyone else constantly having issues with Fedex shipping when ordering from Adams? I know this isn't Adams fault, but I'm trying to figure out what's going on here: I placed an order back on June 18th-Shipped Fedex saver, which means USPS is involved for final delivery. Shipped the 21st with an expected delivery date. Something goes completely sideways in Chicago last Friday (I live on the East coast) and the delivery day disappears and there is no movement till this past Tuesday with an expected delivery date via USPS July 6th (I know the 5th is a holiday)! Placed another order on June 27, shipped on the 28th with an ETA of July 1st. Check the tracking, slipped the July 2nd. Checked the tracking again this morning-claiming it will still be delivered by the end of the day, but its still in PA, which is at least an hour or two away, so maybe I'll see it tomorrow. I had another Fedex delivery (non-Adams product) that slipped a day also this past week. Anyone else having issues with FedEx? UPS and USPS alone have been pretty good for the past 6 months for me at least.

Very Carefully

Whats the best way to get on-board detergent tank cleaned out before using my foam gun with the power washer? I'm buying a new house in a few weeks and it needs some powerwashing done to it..so I plan on using some chemicals to clean the siding on it, but I don't want these same chemicals to damage my cars finises.

Hahahaha Well Maryland isn't much better. I live currently 5 minutes from Cecil County Dragway and well its a ****hole here...in the past week or two we've had 3 homicides in the area. The county is in the top 12 in US for drugs also. I moved to work at APG...From November 2010 till November 2015, I've been through 3 different jobs because of contract bull with the DOD. The personal income taxes are about $2400 more a year in MD vs NJ (almost makes up the difference in property taxes!), gas is more expensive, it takes 30 minutes one way to get to anything and its not a convenient distance to the beach either. It also helps that my wife is making 20K more a year (and will make even more then that down the road) in NJ vs what she's doing now, doesn't have to travel to DE or PA for work (plus tolls/gas), so that will save more $ there We'll also be close to friends and Family when we move back to, which was a pain in MD since we were "only" 2 hours, so our weekends were shot if we came up to do something. So yea, people talk alot of **** about NJ, but we missed it (since we where born and raised there)

Thanks for the tips guys, it looks like the pods will be stored inside of a building (according the address I have and google earth!) so temps shouldn't be an issue. The Microfiber hasn't been used since last year and has been in my garage since then, so they should be completely dry.

I'm in the process of moving and storing my household stuff in Pods (connexes) for a couple months till my wife and I find a new house back in New Jersey. Since many of the Adams items have a nice scent to them, do I have to be worried about mice, etc trying to get into my storage? I haven't had any problems in my garage, but was concerned when it gets put into my driveway or gets put into storage facility. Anyone have any experiences?

I got this and the new tire dressing a few weeks ago and finally got around to using it today. I have the original 3 piece wheel woolie and the original Turbo stick, but this new wheel woolie blows them away when cleaning the wheels on my SHO. The SHO wheels have these shallow black cut outs on the wheels that where a pain to clean because of the shape, but with the new wheel woolie with its 45 degree bend on it, its snap cleaning them up now...stupid how something like that makes all the difference in the world! The new Tire Dressing is really nice too...wasn't a huge fan of VRT on tires, but the new Tire Dressing gives that nice shiny black look I'm used to with other products I've used over the years....hopefully with out the product slinging all over the side of the car (I haven't driven my car anywhere besides back into the garage since application)

Damn it I have my nephews confirmation that day! I had a blast year.

I asked my Insurance agent for list of approved body shops they've dealt with since I'm kinda new the area (moved 2 years ago) I have a shop in Jersey I'd trust fixing it, but its about a hour/hour and half away. Other issue is my Mustang is in Winter Storage and I can't drive it till next March due to me dropping it down to bare minimum coverage.

Here is the photo of the damaged area, for those interested

It shouldn't...it was a combination of a slightly dirty pad, me applying too much pressure/trying to hard, and it being on a ridge, where paint is naturally thinner. I've had no problems using the focus pads with a drill on flat surfaces.

The color is ever so slightly off (lighter red) vs the rest of the car...its hard to see if don't look hard, but you can tell. I tried reapplying clear over the damage (which I later removed), but it didn't match up since I think the Ruby Red process on my car has a special candy clear to it to give it more depth to the paint.

Its raining now, so I can't take a picture of the damage. I was using my cordless drill with a 4 inch orange microfiber pad with the new 2 step polish. I broke a couple "rules", the pad wasn't cleaned from its prior use (I fixed a co-workers door that got scratched/paint transfer from some idiot opening his door up a few days prior to this), I should have broken out my Groits small polisher first before breaking out the cordless drill to start with, and the biggest one was trying to hard to get it perfect...the scratch is right on one of the ridges in the hood. I had it about 90-95% fixed before I took the clear off with the orange polish/pad....I forgot the rule about being extra careful with ridges on cars. The pad didn't get warm and I made 2-3 passes with it before the last pass took the clear off.

Long story short, I was stupid and manged to burn through my clear coat on the hood of my SHO over the weekend, after scratching it accidentally doing an oil change (forgot about the kayak I had hanging from the ceiling when I jacked it up to get under it) Anyways I went through the clear coat on one of the ridges on the hood, totally my own fault...so anyone care to give me a SWAG on how much it would cost to get fixed? Would it be possible to just to get the clear resprayed or am I looking at a hood repaint? I know the car has a special pear clear coat, so I'm thinking that its going to need a repaint

My other hobby is building models, and a guy I know made a paint drying booth out of a food dehydrator. I was working on my Fiancee's Escape all week with the new 2 step Microfiber pads and I decided I better clean them before I used them again tomorrow on my SHO to finish that up. Anyways, I knew if I let them air dry, they wouldn't be ready for me in the AM after breakfast. Then the light bulb went off...I decided that I'd try putting them into my paint drying booth I made from a food dehydrator...basically its a crate that has painters tape covering up most of the holes on it, a USPS box with circle cut out to fit the top the dehydrator into. The dehydrator is basically a hair dryer and it raises up the temp inside the box to about 125 degrees and dries out whatever water is in the air also. its also not hot enough to damage the pads either. I cleaned the microfiber pads with some APC (which is also a great paint stripper for acrylic model paint) and water. I wringed them out the best I could then placed them inside the paint drying booth on top of a small plastic cup so air could circulate around them. I left them in there for about 2 hours and when I took them out they where just about completely dry. I'll post some photos of my setup later today (its after midnight now) if your interested, but this is the food dehydrator I'm using: http://www.amazon.com/Nesco-FD-37A-American-Dehydrator-400-watt/dp/B00CS5ZI6G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1379132218&sr=8-3&keywords=food+dehydrator I'm just using the white thing on top, and got rid of the rest of it since I'll never make jerky or whatever with it..

Wow!

I should have taken a photo when I had them pulled, but I just wanted to get the plasticoating done on the fronts, since I had other stuff to do that day. When I get a chance, I'll pull a wheel again. The "caking" wasn't as thick on the areas where product could get onto inner part of the wheel from outside.

I'm getting ready to do a paint correction to fiancee's Escape over the next week or two. After I do the correction, what should I use next? I've heard good things about Quick Sealant, but I also have Machine Super Sealant I can use with my Flex...what is the better of two products? What should I apply over this? I have old formula Buttery Wax and a tub of Americana, but I want to save that for my SHO and Mustang GT. Any other suggestions?

I pulled my Mustang wheels off to Plastidip them in grey since they where pretty beat up looking in spots with white flecks in the machined aluminum and some other nastiness here and there. Anyways, I decide to take a shot at trying to clean the insides of the wheels off since they where off. I applied some Deep Wheel cleaner to them, and well it didn't do anything to dust....I broke out the drill with turbo stick and all I winded up doing with that is breaking part of the back off of the turbo stick (nothing too bad...still totally usable) and still didn't make a dent in it. I tried the wheel woolies and some APC and still didn't make a dent. Short of using a wire brush...any other suggestions? I'm not disappointed with the products, since it was nearly 7 1/2 years of build up on them, just curious as how to tackle this in the future if I detail any other cars with the same issue. I know I won't let the interior of my SHO wheels get this bad...I'll have to pull them off every year or so to give them a nice deep cleaning.

This is a shot of my house before I bought it two years ago...only difference is I have a storm door on it now.

I was going WTF when I saw the grill insert on your Focus ST, then I saw you where in Australia I drove a Focus ST back two summers ago and it was a hoot! Only thing I didn't care for was the Recadro seats making feel like I'm fat (which I really aren't) because the kidney boosters poking me in the sides.

I have it on my steering wheel and I was wondering how to clean it too...I took some Interior cleaner to it using a single soft microfiber, but didn't see a huge difference.

When I did my 2006 Mustang GT, I sprayed everything down with APC and then scrubbed it with a wheel well brush then hosed it off using the shower pattern on my garden house sprayer. Then I applied some quick detailer spray to the plastic parts

I just got Quick Sealant on them the last time I washed her...hopefully that takes care of it! I just hate washing the car, then going to dry the wheels off and seeing all the dust that the brushes miss...its hard to see what you missed when everything is wet! The wheel wooles work good on getting the inner part of the wheels clean though. I'll try the wheel nut brush next time I wash her...

Need suggestions, I have the Adams wheel cleaning brush and wheel whoolys, but it seems like I never can get the wheels clean on the first go around...the big problem I'm having is that its a pain in the butt to get the outer portions (near the tires) of the black parts of the wheel clean on the first shot. The Wheel cleaning brush gets the wheels about 75-80% clean using either DWC or GWC, but I always seem to have dust left in the corners of the black portion near the machining on the wheels. Would a stiffer wheel brush like the lug nut cleaner be a better bet? The wheel whoolys are really awkward to use in that part and the Adams brush gets the inner part taken care of for the most part, but leaves the trianglar part dirty still...