Periodic

I used Langka on my hood, but I still applied too much touch up paint. Thinking that I needed to build it up to dome over the chips, and that the blob eliminator would take care of the rest. Makes it real tough when you have a lot of paint there, after perfecting...er...improving my technique, using mini art paint brush and tooth pic and multiple applications to fill the chip it got better with time.

Ugh so jealous, my wife and I are currently shopping for a used 3.6 AWD CTS Wagon. That V is so sexy, would love to get in one, but the wallet is too thin for that.

LOVE those supras, beautiful car and nice colour!

72500, good luck with sale.

Wow, this is something you don't see everyday! Much respect for your open book approach to some of the issues.

I still have full bottles of the old stuff, really like the SSR and the new orange MF pad, does WONDERS!

Hate the smell of Americana, but the ease of application and removal all but make up for that. As much as detail spray and the like have a nice smell while using it, the only place where smell REALLY matters to me, is inside the car. The place where I am for 1.5-2hrs a day. I LOVE the conditioner smell as well. I keep a dry MF towel in the map net behind the passenger seat to quickly hit any dust that falls on the dash and console. Keeps it looking mint for weeks!

There is so much time spent using your hands on a detail that you can't avoid; washing, drying, claying, scrubbing wheels, tire dressing, window cleaning, etc. At the very least leave paint correction, sealing, glazing to the machines! I still like to apply Americana by hand; but it is effortless.

Welcome, where in Ontario? Finally a weekend to get rid of some of this snow!

subscribed! I love these threads! Love to get ideas for when I build my own one day!

Yeah, i'm thinking no matter what this needs professional attention, might as well just book the appointment and bend over.

Well, some bad news. My last car wash was 2 weeks ago. Pressure was rinse, foam gun, rinse, 2 bucket wash, and a hit with detail spray. Nothing fancy, but a quick fix for the winter months. This morning I oticed a small line of salt this morning on the rear quarter. Upon further inspection, I found this; both sides.. At lunch I visited a few body shops, with prices ranging from $966 to $2000. Oddly enough the lowest price is the one from my dealership, and the one I also feel most comfortable with. I just don't know if I trust myself enough to make this a DIY repair.

Just curious what the purpose of this is for? act as a flexible joint between piping fixed to body vs piping fixed to motor?

I'd love to get a shot of your paint where the camera is looking directly into the reflection of the sun, a real close up. It looks like a beautiful blue metallic, and that is sometimes the best way to see just how awesome the colour really is! Adam's has 3 waxes, 1 glaze and 1 sealant, fairly simple lineup. Of the waxes, you have a quick, easy to apply liquid, a high end paste wax, and an uber fine wax...you're choice, ultimately they'll be your top coat. Like Chris said, the polishes are a completely different beast, they are not shine inducing, or protecting your paint in any way. They are simply their to perfect the finish prior to protecting it. Perfect before protect. Swirls are not typically created from waxing, but rather the wash process, those who take extra good care, use multiple wash mitts, multiple buckets, foam, etc will avoid swirls for the most part.

Thanks for the input lads, few years away from it but would love to do it myself and be able to pay the machine off in a couple years thereafter. Have been long looking for a way to make some "extra" cash, and I think this could be decent, just would suck to have to climb into attics etc, basements would be simple.

So I'm gearing up to build a 2000sqft single story home with attached 24x24 garage, and 28x40 shop in the next 2-3 years, and I have been exploring everything from heating systems, to garage lifts, to hot tubs and style of brick. My latest think tank has led me to spray foam. I LOVE the idea of spray foam, and am likely going to use it for my ceiling in the main house, as a bare minimum. And, will likely do the exterior walls with it as well (in the middle of a field, so air tight is extremely important). Anyways, looking online, there seem to be several companies selling brand new rigs outfitted with all the necessary equipment to do a proper spray foam project. They are starting at around $25K, with decent equipment names and hoses that reach up to 300'. The next big item is the cost of the foam, it comes in 2 55gallon drums and is considered "1 set". 1 set of closed cell (higher R value, less expanding) foam ingredients will yield approximately 4200 board feet (12"x12"x1") at a cost of anywhere from $1800-$2500/set. Let's assume a square 2000 sqft house, 40x50 dimensions. 85% of surface (windows and doors) ((40x2) + (50x2) x 9 x 0.85) 1377sq ft of "wall area" around the perimeter, rounded to 1400 sq ft R20minimum = 3"foam x 1400sqft = 4200 board feet. Pretty coincidental that "1 set" of foam yields pretty darned close to the entire perimeter of my assumed house. But it is, what it is. Ok, so for the raw materials it will require $2,500 worth of foam to do 1377sq ft of wall, or $1.81/sqft R20, 3"thick). I quickly estimated the total area of walls and ceiling/roof for house and garage that would require foam, and come out to about 8500sq ft. Grand total of $15,385, +25K for the equipment + shipping and fuel, let's say I am at $45K to have a completely air tight, sealed, insulated house and garage. Sounds like a lot of cash, but once complete I have the option to 1- sell the equipment 2-start doing insulation jobs on the side. The cost of hiring a contractor to do the installation, for just my house portion, would be about $26,000. Add in the shop, and I'm looking at $40,000. Sure the shop doesn't need the pricey insulation, but it still needs some insulation, so even if I cut that in half, I'm sitting at $33,000. Is the extra 12K worth it? $12K is a lot of side jobs to pay the rig off, but the going rate for spray foam is around $5/sqft in my area. If I charged say $3.50 to cover my own time and pay down my rig, I could easily pull back $1000/job. Just needed some good level headed guys to toss this out to. Lot's of Math, and ideas, hopefully you guys can follow my logic.

I have a "simonize" brand, sold through Canadian Tire, 1800psi electric $180 thing. Probably comparable to the walmart brand, if not the same just re branded for our stores. It is great for washing cars, mine has done me 2 years so far no problems, just make sure you never let it freeze!

I am a rinse, foam, rinse, wash guy. Love the mtm foam cannon with adam's shampoo. Helpful tip, I like to add a little bit of waterless wash to the mixture, say 1oz WW, 1.5-2oz shampoo. Makes it real slick, and although I have no conclusive data, I like to think that it helps lift the dirt even more. When strip washing, I sub All Purpose cleaner for the WW, as well as APC in the wash bucket.

Instead of merino wool wash mit, it's not a Kentucky bluegrass wash mit.

In the Fall I did my first full correction on the G8, having practiced on a few panels when time would allow, and doing my wife's Altima first, I decided to tackle it. I still had plenty of product on the old 3 step system (like 80% bottles or more), so without wanting it to go to waste I switched up the combo of pads. My car was heavily swirled, and found that if I used the old Severe Swirl Remover with the Orange MF cutting pad, the Swirl and Haze remover with the White MF finishing pad, and finally the fine machine polish on the white foam finishing pad. I ended up only needed 2 passes of the first 2 steps and 1 pass of the final step to get 95+% correction. If you have a lot of product left, I'd recommend not letting it go to waste!

What a turd! hah jk, that car is stunning and you've put a good shine on her too. My tip for removing Americana if it gets a little dry - hit it with a quick squirt of detail spray. Enjoy!

I say this is the better technique, get most of the water off the paint with the sheeting effect from the pool rinse (unrestricted, low pressure flow direct from hose), then blow out your mirrors, door handles, lights, door jambs, trunk, hood, gas cap, window seems, rims (spokes and lug nut holes), tires (where the bead meats the rims), any grills etc. Then hit the car with detail spray and your choice drying towel. Prevents any spotting/streaking once the car is on the move/sites for extended periods of time.

This is good stuff, I've always used hot water in a cheap dollar store squirt bottle (keep a few empties around the garage just in case). It has always been decent for me, but it does take some elbow grease. Curious about the baking soda, does it react with the salt quicker to release it from the carpet fibers? My technique has always been water, agitate, vacuum, repeat. Now that I have weathertechs though, I am good, aside from the foot rest and about 1" above my driving foot on the footwell. Otherwise the carpets stay clean all year round.

Nice and clean...Although my least favourite body style...prefer the 99-02 front end

Sad news to the community. I, like many others, was drawn here specifically by your involvement Dylan. As an extreme detailing rookie, I must admit that I "looked up to you" the most! Probably even more so than the name on the label himself. All the best in your future endeavours, and many long, happy, healthy years for you and your family.