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Yellow pad vs. Orange


LowNslo
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So I started the black Yukon yesterday, I did notice that after a few passes some of the hard water spots are still there! I am killing the orange pad trying to work it so hard..... Does the yellow work faster? I feel like I won't make my money on some of these rides if I spend 4 hours on just the hood of a car.

 

It was the worst spot but didn't come all the way out, so now I am second guessing my technique or could it be the pad not cutting enough? I came from using a DA with a wool bonnet that cut really fast!

My current technique is similiar to Junkmans slow cut, I ran the orange over twice, then slowed it down a little and DS the pad to revive the SHR and worked it till it was alsmost gone, then came back with FMP using the same technique and still see some water spots under the light!

 

Thanks for any words you can give

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I used to have water spots on my hood and it took the yellow pad to get them out. Took a while to do it though....

 

I'd buy 4 yellows pads if I were you before they are gone. I know I stocked up on them!

 

Plus... If you still have swirls and scratches or in your case hard water spots dont move onto polishing.

 

I'd take a clay bar back to it and then work the spot with some SHR again and use some good pressure. Also I'd buy the Yellow pad it will help with the spots. If you didnt get it out with the orange pad your going to need the yellow.

Edited by Kingsford
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So I started the black Yukon yesterday, I did notice that after a few passes some of the hard water spots are still there! I am killing the orange pad trying to work it so hard..... Does the yellow work faster? I feel like I won't make my money on some of these rides if I spend 4 hours on just the hood of a car.

 

It was the worst spot but didn't come all the way out, so now I am second guessing my technique or could it be the pad not cutting enough? I came from using a DA with a wool bonnet that cut really fast!

My current technique is similiar to Junkmans slow cut, I ran the orange over twice, then slowed it down a little and DS the pad to revive the SHR and worked it till it was alsmost gone, then came back with FMP using the same technique and still see some water spots under the light!

 

Thanks for any words you can give

 

Your best bet is to probably take a quick vid of your technique and shoot it over to AJ and see if he can help you. He may be able to see something in your technique that no one here can advise you about without seeing what you are doing. This may also help you avoid purchasing additional products that you may not need. Just my 2 cents though.

 

What speed are you running your PC at?

Edited by 02Xtreme07ss
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Chris,

 

Let's look at what has been done and see if you really need a yellow pad. Without seeing it in person or at least in a picture, I would say verify your technique is correct before suggesting you hit it with a yellow pad. You're working with GM 8555 Black BC/CC, it's a fairly soft paint that usually responds very well and I really see no need to go to a yellow pad until you put a little more time into it with the orange. You'll spend almost as much time with the orange cleaning up after the yellow as you will spending a little more time now with a little better technique with just the orange.

 

So I started the black Yukon yesterday, I did notice that after a few passes some of the hard water spots are still there! I am killing the orange pad trying to work it so hard..... Does the yellow work faster? I feel like I won't make my money on some of these rides if I spend 4 hours on just the hood of a car.

 

Are you sure they are water spots? Are you sure they aren't deeper and aren't actually etchings? What speed are you running the orange pad at? How much product do you have on the pad? How much pressure are you putting on the pad?

 

It was the worst spot but didn't come all the way out, so now I am second guessing my technique or could it be the pad not cutting enough? I came from using a DA with a wool bonnet that cut really fast!

My current technique is similiar to Junkmans slow cut, I ran the orange over twice, then slowed it down a little and DS the pad to revive the SHR and worked it till it was alsmost gone, then came back with FMP using the same technique and still see some water spots under the light!

It sounds like you made 2 passes with the orange. You still can still go quite a few more before you should even consider the yellow. Also, the Junkman's slowcut technique, as he emphasized recently, is not intended to be used with anything other than a paste type compound/polish. It's not the correct technique to use with a PC and the products you are currently using.

 

Thanks for any words you can give
Give it a few more passes with the orange pad with your PC set on 5 with the proper amount of product and pressure like the Junkman shows in his videos and see where you're at after that. If you can get a few pics of the spots you're having trouble with (if they will even photograph) post those up as well. Let us know how you make out. Edited by 02Xtreme07ss
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Jim,

 

He spent 4 hours on it with the Orange Pad. I'm assuming you've never tried to get water spot out of paint. It's not the easiest thing to do. I know because my hood was covered in them. I could only get them out with the orange pad.

 

Chris or any other moderator would not steer anyone wrong. They are not here to get people to buy stuff they are here to help.

 

I agree 100% with Chris on the Yellow Pad because I have had the experience of Water Spots not coming out.

 

If you have used the orange pad and they do not come out then the yellow pad should be used. He started with the least aggressive method and it did not work. Why would you keep wasting time and product with the orange pad if its simply not working?

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Jim,

 

He spent 4 hours on it with the Orange Pad. I'm assuming you've never tried to get water spot out of paint. It's not the easiest thing to do. I know because my hood was covered in them. I could only get them out with the orange pad.

 

Chris or any other moderator would not steer anyone wrong. They are not here to get people to buy stuff they are here to help.

 

I agree 100% with Chris on the Yellow Pad because I have had the experience of Water Spots not coming out.

 

If you have used the orange pad and they do not come out then the yellow pad should be used. He started with the least aggressive method and it did not work. Why would you keep wasting time and product with the orange pad if its simply not working?

 

Chris didn't say use the yellow pad. He said it's the most aggressive and it works well on water spots. I'm not disagreeing with him at all on those points. However, he did not say that he should use the yellow pad.

 

Now, the OP said he wouldn't make any money if he spent 4 hours on a hood, not that he spent 4 hours working SHR with an orange pad. He specifically said he only made 2 passes and he did that using a technique that was incorrect for his product and equipment. He will spend just as much time cleaning up the 'damage' the yellow pad does as he will trying 2-3 more passes using proper technique with the orange. He has nothing to lose other than a little bit of time and effort by improving his technique now and purchasing a yellow pad later.

 

I'm also not saying the yellow won't work for him. It can work wonders in many situations, but none of us can accurately say that this situation is it because we're interpreting a description. We don't have pictures, or better yet, none of us are there in person. What I am saying is that it's premature, and quite frankly irresponsible, to suggest he go out and buy a bunch of yellow pads until he corrects his technique with the equipment he has and can say for certain that what he has isn't enough when used correctly. He's not at a point that he can make that determination because he has hasn't been using the correct technique for the products and equipment he has right now.

 

I'm also saying that I quite a bit of experience, just as Chris does, working on vehicles with factory GM 8555 Black. For the record, I'm not suggesting that Chris, or any other moderator, would steer him wrong.

 

As far as getting a spot out of a paint...I currently own 2 black, 1 magnetic grey, 1 electric blue and 1 silver vehicle....I've dealt with my share of 'spots'.

Edited by 02Xtreme07ss
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If you didnt get it out with the orange pad your going to need the yellow.

 

 

then why discontinue the yellow b4 the new green pad is out ? I mean eventually you will run into things that will need a more aggressive pad then the orange, seems like creating a whole in the inventory.

but then again they prob just waiting to sell off the yellows first , idk :confused:

 

 

My self i have the standard pads for the industry, including wool and am experienced enough not to burn through the clear coat, HOWEVER i would much rather prefer buying from a company like Adams instead of finding a substitute for what "used to be" a product. Espeacially since adams seems to have mastereed not give too much cutting ability b, but rather just what is needed in their various pads.

Edited by w0lfy
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then why discontinue the yellow b4 the new green pad is out ? I mean eventually you will run into things that will need a more aggressive pad then the orange, seems like creating a whole in the inventory.

but then again they prob just waiting to sell off the yellows first , idk :confused:

 

Because the new Compound and Green Pad is supposed to be better than the Yellow Pad & SHR. I dont know that for a fact but its what we were told.

 

Like I said all I know is I had the same problem and the Yellow Pad w/ SHR fixed it!

 

Chris didn't say use the yellow pad. He said it's the most aggressive and it works well on water spots. I'm not disagreeing with him at all on those points. However, he did not say that he should use the yellow pad.

 

It was implied. I'm out of this convo.

Edited by Kingsford
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Ahh... a good ol' passionate discussion. Nothing wrong with that. I have been a part of a many of them and some of mine were nowhere near as cordial as you guys are having. I applaud your ability to stick to the discussion and remain respectful of each other. Allow me to chime in with a small correction and my personal opinion of the matter at hand.

 

... It sounds like you made 2 passes with the orange. You still can still go quite a few more before you should even consider the yellow. Also, the Junkman's slowcut technique, as he emphasized recently, is not intended to be used with anything other than a paste type compound/polish. It's not the correct technique to use with a PC and the products you are currently using.

 

Almost correct in quoting me with a small exception. The slow cut was conceived specifically for paste type compounds as Jim stated, but it was also made to be specifically used with the PC or similar polisher. The reason being is that the PC with it's limited power, cannot effective break down paste type compounds and polishes like a rotary can. Thus, the slow cut was developed in order to maximize the limited ability of the PC, so that you can effectively use a paste type polish. I have also found that switching to the slow cut technique for a few passes will also help flush out excess polish if your pads become saturated with product.

 

Now I will have to commend Jim on his reading comprehension because he brought up some very valid points about Chris' initial post. I agree with Jim in that it sounds like Chris has not given the orange pad and SHR it fair shake at attempting to rid the paint of damage, if only two passes with the PC is all that has been tried. Chris will have to clarify that. Add to that as Jim has mentioned, technique has a lot to do with effectiveness when dealing with the PC. Let me state this in bold.

 

Technique trumps tools EVERY TIME.

 

Ask anyone who has bought an expensive set of golf clubs. If your game sucks, Tiger Woods' bag of clubs ain't gonna do anything for you. So going to a more aggressive compound or pads/polisher is futile if your technique is all jacked up. Now I'm not saying that is the case here, but I am saying that since we have no pictures or video of Chris in action, that is a very real possibility.

 

Also as Jim stated, those water spots could be etched into the paint and all the polishing in the world is not going to remove them. I have personal experience with that type of damage and it is not an easy fix. It required wet sanding which is NOT something I would ever tell someone to do, especially a novice.

 

I also agree with Jim in the trade off of going to the yellow pad. You will notice that I never use a yellow pad in my videos. I'm not saying that it is not good to use, I just don't like the trade off of how much damage it removes compared to what you have to do to remove the damage it leaves behind. It is not the solution for all finishes. On some paint jobs it works nicely and on others it leaves a bunch of damage behind that you now have to remove. Sure, the problem that you initially had MAY be gone but the micro-marring that the yellow pad does can in itself be difficult to remove. Thus, I refrain from using the yellow pad if at all possible and break out a different polisher or compound. This is why a good detailer doesn't have just one or two polishers in their arsenal. The right tools and compounds are critical to your success and you have got to be versatile. The more damage you address, the more effective that you will become in figuring out what it will take to address a given situation.

 

Keep in mind that what worked in one situation may not work in another. Every situation can be different and after you touch enough cars, you will realize that every time you touch a car it could be a learning process. Paints are changing every year and what works on 10 year old paint may not be the answer for 5 year old paint. So to Chris I would give this advice. Give the orange pad and SHR a fair stab at this, ensuring that your technique is true. If you do as was suggest an post a video of your attempt to fix this damage, I can quickly see if you are doing anything wrong that needs to be addressed.

 

Keep the passion fellas, there's nothing wrong with that. We appreciate having you guys around because Lord knows, there is not enough of us to post in every thread that pops up. :2thumbs:

Edited by Junkman2008
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Thanks for all the help guys, I am sorry to start a war among friends haha! I went back last night and had a look at the videos that are posted both by adam and AJ and figured out that I was not going slow enough first of all and second I had not made enough passes to ensure the polishes were doing the work they are intended for! I went back last night and played with the hood some more and found that most of those water spots are actually etched in......:(

 

I broke out an old buffer and compound that used to work for heavy stuff (I never could get the finish right anyway so why not try). I got most all of the spots out and resumed with my pc and adams products to clean up the mess i made and wow! Its fixed now, so I all in all It was a situation that required a little more elbow grease in the initial process to fully correct these spots! I'm telling you though, I am ocd about doing things so you can bet its perfect when im done!

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