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The Junkman Battles Another Keyed Paint Job


Junkman2008
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Hey boys and girls, I had the opportunity to go at another keyed paint job this week. As a lot of you already know, fixing paint is a passion for me and not something I do for money. So when the owner asked me what I wanted in return, I told him nothing but some pictures and food. He decided that was not good enough and bought me this setup:

 

HT-BD1250.jpg

 

It's the Samsung HT-BD1250 Blu-ray DVD player and 5.1 HD audio with wireless speaker setup. I have to say that this beats Outback Steakhouse since I didn't have anything to go with my new 46" LED wide screen I just bought. I also needed a Blu-ray player as I hadn't bought one yet!

 

On to the repair. This scratch was too deep in places to totally remove but in situations like this, you try and make the damage as least noticeable as possible. At first glance, you would not be able to see the fixed product. That's what you want to achieve with damage like this. Here's the damage and it was not pretty. The scratch went from the front fender to almost the rear quarter.

 

toyota_scratch1.jpg

 

toyota_scratch1a.jpg

 

toyota_scratch1b.jpg

 

toyota_scratch1c.jpg

 

toyota_scratch1d.jpg

 

toyota_scratch1e.jpg

 

 

As you can see, this puppy was deep. I was going to have to start with 2000 grit paper for this scratch. This posed two problems. One, I cannot use the PC-7424XP to repair 2000 grit wet sanding damage (it is not powerful enough and would take forever). I would need to use my Flex 3401VRG polisher in this case. Two, this is a new Toyota, which is notorious for having some of the thinnest clear coat on the planet (the same with Nissan's). In a situation like this, you have got to use a paint thickness gauge that measures both base coat AND clear coat. I didn't have one handy and was going to opt out of trying to fix this but the owner insisted that I go at it, even after I warned him of the danger. That scratch was bothering him so bad that anything would be better in his mind. So, at it I went.

 

I started by claying the entire area as claying is the foundation of my shine. Another reason that I clayed the area is because the owner had used some Meguiar's ScratchX on the scratch in an attempt to repair the damage himself and I didn't want anything in that scratch that would affect my repair attempt. The only thing he managed to do was make the paint dull around the scratch. Once the area was clayed, I started with 2000 grit paper. When doing a repair like this where you are NOT going to be painting the car, you have got to know when to stop sanding. You do not necessarily totally remove the scratch. In most cases you won't, especially on clear coat that is as thin as it is on these cars.

 

After the 2000 grit, I followed it with the 2500 and then 3000 grit papers. Again, you have got to take into consideration that these papers are also going to remove clear coat so if you remove too much with the 2000 grit paper, you've screwed the pooch. That's why a paint thickness gauge is so important. At a body shop where they are going to paint the car anyway, a paint thickness gauge is a waste of time and not necessary. Here's some shots of the sanding process.

 

toyota_scratch2.jpg

 

toyota_scratch2a.jpg

 

toyota_scratch2b.jpg

 

toyota_scratch2c.jpg

 

toyota_scratch2d.jpg

 

toyota_scratch2e.jpg

 

 

Once I completed wet sanding the damage, I broke out my Flex polisher, some Swirl and Haze Remover and a orange pad. After buffing all the damage away with that combination, I followed it with some Fine Machine Polish and a white pad. After that combination, these were the results that I was able to achieve.

 

toyota_scratch3.jpg

 

toyota_scratch3a.jpg

 

toyota_scratch3c.jpg

 

toyota_scratch3d.jpg

 

toyota_scratch3e.jpg

 

toyota_scratch3f.jpg

 

toyota_scratch3g.jpg

 

 

So as you can see, I earned my keep and this is probably why the owner was so happy. Now I need to go setup my new gear and hear what it sounds like! ;)

 

 

The Junkman

Edited by Junkman2008
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AJ, that was an almost unbelievable fix; I think that I would have had the guy go to the body shop--but your correction? That's 99-44/100% at least! Terrific job!:bow:

 

I'm telling ya', I did a double take when I saw it. The guy said that it was not bad and that it would be a easy fix for me. I quote, "All you have to do is just run your buffer thing over it real quick and it will go away!"

 

Yea, right! :help:

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I'm telling ya', I did a double take when I saw it. The guy said that it was not bad and that it would be a easy fix for me. I quote, "All you have to do is just run your buffer thing over it real quick and it will go away!"

 

Yea, right! :help:

 

Yeah, one wave of the polisher and *poof* the scratch is gone? Uh, not quite. :willy:

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great job AJ

 

:iagree: But I believe Green would have saved time!:)

 

 

that's the great thing bout higher speed polishers like the flex combined with Adams polish system.... it cuts time it self. The higher speed combined with adams pads/polishes seems to do just as advertised...... allow correction of serve paint flaws which the pc would not get to.

 

Renumber guys the new compound is a abrasive, "aggressive",..... the whole goal is to be as least agressive as possible and make the correction...even in a detail business:2thumbs:

 

I suspect the same job with the pc would have took alot more passes and time. But thats what the flex is for ...its like needing a bigger hammer to get the dent out :lolsmack: ... its not replacing the smaller hammer:glasses:

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AJ I have to :king: to you.

You are the master.

 

When do we get the videos on how to use a flex?

 

I've got to get a HD camera first. I need for people to actually see what I'm doing without straining.

 

The Flex is not for everyone. I am waiting for the threads to start popping up were people have wiped the paint off an edge of a panel because they used it wrong. :willy:

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