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The Junkman Battles Another Keyed Paint Job


Junkman2008

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Hey boys and girls, I had the opportunity to go at another keyed paint job this week. As a lot of you already know, fixing paint is a passion for me and not something I do for money. So when the owner asked me what I wanted in return, I told him nothing but some pictures and food. He decided that was not good enough and bought me this setup:

 

HT-BD1250.jpg

 

It's the Samsung HT-BD1250 Blu-ray DVD player and 5.1 HD audio with wireless speaker setup. I have to say that this beats Outback Steakhouse since I didn't have anything to go with my new 46" LED wide screen I just bought. I also needed a Blu-ray player as I hadn't bought one yet!

 

On to the repair. This scratch was too deep in places to totally remove but in situations like this, you try and make the damage as least noticeable as possible. At first glance, you would not be able to see the fixed product. That's what you want to achieve with damage like this. Here's the damage and it was not pretty. The scratch went from the front fender to almost the rear quarter.

 

toyota_scratch1.jpg

 

toyota_scratch1a.jpg

 

toyota_scratch1b.jpg

 

toyota_scratch1c.jpg

 

toyota_scratch1d.jpg

 

toyota_scratch1e.jpg

 

 

As you can see, this puppy was deep. I was going to have to start with 2000 grit paper for this scratch. This posed two problems. One, I cannot use the PC-7424XP to repair 2000 grit wet sanding damage (it is not powerful enough and would take forever). I would need to use my Flex 3401VRG polisher in this case. Two, this is a new Toyota, which is notorious for having some of the thinnest clear coat on the planet (the same with Nissan's). In a situation like this, you have got to use a paint thickness gauge that measures both base coat AND clear coat. I didn't have one handy and was going to opt out of trying to fix this but the owner insisted that I go at it, even after I warned him of the danger. That scratch was bothering him so bad that anything would be better in his mind. So, at it I went.

 

I started by claying the entire area as claying is the foundation of my shine. Another reason that I clayed the area is because the owner had used some Meguiar's ScratchX on the scratch in an attempt to repair the damage himself and I didn't want anything in that scratch that would affect my repair attempt. The only thing he managed to do was make the paint dull around the scratch. Once the area was clayed, I started with 2000 grit paper. When doing a repair like this where you are NOT going to be painting the car, you have got to know when to stop sanding. You do not necessarily totally remove the scratch. In most cases you won't, especially on clear coat that is as thin as it is on these cars.

 

After the 2000 grit, I followed it with the 2500 and then 3000 grit papers. Again, you have got to take into consideration that these papers are also going to remove clear coat so if you remove too much with the 2000 grit paper, you've screwed the pooch. That's why a paint thickness gauge is so important. At a body shop where they are going to paint the car anyway, a paint thickness gauge is a waste of time and not necessary. Here's some shots of the sanding process.

 

toyota_scratch2.jpg

 

toyota_scratch2a.jpg

 

toyota_scratch2b.jpg

 

toyota_scratch2c.jpg

 

toyota_scratch2d.jpg

 

toyota_scratch2e.jpg

 

 

Once I completed wet sanding the damage, I broke out my Flex polisher, some Swirl and Haze Remover and a orange pad. After buffing all the damage away with that combination, I followed it with some Fine Machine Polish and a white pad. After that combination, these were the results that I was able to achieve.

 

toyota_scratch3.jpg

 

toyota_scratch3a.jpg

 

toyota_scratch3c.jpg

 

toyota_scratch3d.jpg

 

toyota_scratch3e.jpg

 

toyota_scratch3f.jpg

 

toyota_scratch3g.jpg

 

 

So as you can see, I earned my keep and this is probably why the owner was so happy. Now I need to go setup my new gear and hear what it sounds like! ;)

 

 

The Junkman

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Yes, but you can't burn the paint on a flat surface without being careless with it. With a rotary, you can be paying attention and burn the paint anywhere. Not with the Flex. You have to make an effort to mess up a flat surface with the Flex. Edges are another story.

 

By the way, I never use my Flex at a speed of 6. I always go at a speed of 5.

 

I see now what you mean. I just feel that people need to realize that you CAN burn the paint in one spot if you just sat there and tried to remove a bad scratch or defect as it can generate heat. I think the Flex behaves very well but people do need to realize it has forced rotation and is not just 'a bigger PC' :cheers:

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Nice Job AJ! They must have been happy!

 

How do you go about this type of work? I realize that you've done this a lot, but what happens if you go through the clear on accident and cause more harm to their paint? Do you have them sign a waver or do you have insurance to cover your work?

 

Chris

 

If I screw up someone's car, then I reach in my pocket and pay for the repair to paint it. If I think that I might mess up, then I shouldn't touch the car to begin with. No safety nets here.

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Nice Job AJ! They must have been happy!

 

How do you go about this type of work? I realize that you've done this a lot, but what happens if you go through the clear on accident and cause more harm to their paint? Do you have them sign a waver or do you have insurance to cover your work?

 

Chris

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I see now what you mean. I just feel that people need to realize that you CAN burn the paint in one spot if you just sat there and tried to remove a bad scratch or defect as it can generate heat. I think the Flex behaves very well but people do need to realize it has forced rotation and is not just 'a bigger PC' :cheers:

 

:iagree:

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If he dose it will most likely be for the super rich :lolsmack::lolsmack:

he has said alot in his videos if he did detailing for a job he would charge alot.

 

Not only would I charge a lot, I don't do interiors (other than my own). My starting price would be around $1000 for the exterior alone, and that's on something the size of a smart car that just rolled off the lot. My days of working that hard are long behind me so if I do, I'm going to get PAID. yesnod.gif

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This has the look to it that we can call you 24/7 and you will come fix our paint.

 

Are you starting a new business AJ? :lolsmack:

 

If he dose it will most likely be for the super rich :lolsmack::lolsmack:

he has said alot in his videos if he did detailing for a job he would charge alot.

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Nothing is like sanding but sanding. Sanding requires aggressive polishing afterward. The Flex "cuts" more clear off the car faster than the PC and leaves the finish a lot more manageable than sanding does.

 

What I was meaning was the harder you press with sand paper the more material you will remove, thus the same with the flex. If you are sanding wood or a body panel on the edge you will round a stright line if not reeal careful.

 

If your paint is a little more messed up then you may need a little more, I guess is what I am trying to say.

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OK so in a noob understanding it is more like sanding. When you use the Flex the more you push the more it cuts," Sands" the finish. Around the edges you will "Round" over.

 

Nothing is like sanding but sanding. Sanding requires aggressive polishing afterward. The Flex "cuts" more clear off the car faster than the PC and leaves the finish a lot more manageable than sanding does.

 

When you are correcting paint, you are cutting off very thin layers of the total amount of clear coat on the car (or paint for cars with no clear coat). The Flex can take thicker layers of clear off the car faster than the PC can.

 

If you have a car that has a little more damage, sometimes the PC will not take care of it and the use of a Flex is a neccessity. Kinda like hand sanding versus powersanding so to speak.

 

Okay, if thinking that way works for you, I'll agree.

 

The flex is best suited for flatter panels on the car like doors, hoods, roofs etc....?

 

These are questions not statements.

 

The Flex will work wherever you can fit it.

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OK so in a noob understanding it is more like sanding. When you use the Flex the more you push the more it cuts," Sands" the finish. Around the edges you will "Round" over.

 

If you have a car that has a little more damage, sometimes the PC will not take care of it and the use of a Flex is a neccessity. Kinda like hand sanding versus powersanding so to speak.

 

The flex is best suited for flatter panels on the car like doors, hoods, roofs etc....?

 

These are questions not statements.

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If this is for another thread please direct me to it. I see your video's where you " Lean" on the PC showing that you can not harm you paint because of it's design. Is the flex the same way?

 

Hell no! If you do that with the Flex, you will burn a hole through your paint! Do NOT do that with the Flex! I explain that in detail in that video series.

 

I see you say that the edges are a particular area of concern with the flex, can you expand why?

 

Because the Flex has forced rotation! Forced rotation means that you cannot bog the Flex down. The more you lean on it, the more it cuts. When you get on a edge, the Flex does not slow down or hang up like the PC does. It keeps cutting. Because the edges contain a lot less clear coat and paint, it is very easy to rub that clear coat and paint off that edge. That's what makes the Flex dangerous in the hands of a novice.

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If this is for another thread please direct me to it. I see your video's where you " Lean" on the PC showing that you can not harm you paint because of it's design. Is the flex the same way?

 

I see you say that the edges are a particular area of concern with the flex, can you expand why?

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I don't know but I can make the Flex heat the paint up pretty hot, like hot to the touch on normal metal body panels with an Orange pad on Level 6.

 

Yes, but you can't burn the paint on a flat surface without being careless with it. With a rotary, you can be paying attention and burn the paint anywhere. Not with the Flex. You have to make an effort to mess up a flat surface with the Flex. Edges are another story.

 

By the way, I never use my Flex at a speed of 6. I always go at a speed of 5.

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AJ in your vieos please stress the diff tween the flex and pc....... I think people may make mistakes because of not understanding the flex doesn't replace the pc but adds to the tool box, sorta speak.

 

Can't wait for you to get that hd camera ....hey maybe Santa will drop it off.....or you could make a request with the Marines Toys for Tots Program .... after all you are a kid at heart :)

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You shouldn't be able to generate that kind of heat with the Flex unless you are working in direct sunlight and the surface of the car is blazing hot. But then, I've rolled smoke off a car with the PC in that same exact situation. It is mainly the edges of a panel that you have to worry about with the Flex. There's where I suspect people will screw up.

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Daniel, remember the bumper is plastic. It will heat up faster than a body panel or a fiberglass saddle bag. I did a little boo-boo on the bumper of my wife's car with a rotary. Too much heat and it bubbled the paint. I went brain dead and treated the bumper like a body panel. Next thing I know the paint is bubbling.

 

I had suspected the plastic may have been a culprit as well. I'm just thankful I was checking the heat I was creating before I did any damage. I was also able to get the scarred area back to about 85%.

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