musclejunkie Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 I am going to re-coat my garage floor this weekend with Rustoleum garage floor epoxy. The original coating lasted 10 full years of tortuous abuse from salt, oil, gasoline....you name it. Looks phenomenal and cleaning is a breeze too. It's still in pretty good shape and only a few spots have deteriorated and discolored, but it's time for a re-coat. Anyone know what I would need to prep the surface? Would I need to etch or sand the existing epoxy coating to get a good bond? I'm going to get some pics of the project along the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b_pappy Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 Did you put the original coating down? 10 years sounds pretty good. If it's still adhering I would think you could just clean up th elocal spots and reapply, but Rustoleum would probably have the best answer about that. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golf for Life Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 Hey MJ, keep us posted as I would like to do something like a garage floor paint. But my floor sweats sometimes in our high IL. humidity. Best of luck with your project and post up some photos along the way and the finished, finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musclejunkie Posted June 30, 2011 Author Share Posted June 30, 2011 I put the original Rustoleum Epoxy coating down 10 years ago. I am using the exact same product, same color. As far as high humidity, my floor sweats in the spring and in the winter during thaws or warm-ups. NOT an issue! Like I said, my floor was abused, power washed, cleaned with laundry soap products and stiff bristle broom, oil, gasoline, you name it. Always cleaned up looking like new. A snap to keep clean. It just looks dingy now in spots, so I'll do a re-coat. The web-site says you can apply it over the old coating. I'm going to clean it thouroughly first with the cleaner in the kit. It is supposed to rain here this weekend, so I'll do all the prep this weekend and probably paint it next weekend. I'll snap some before and after shots. After it is painted, I will let it "cure" for a week before I drive my car on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mato Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 You need to rough it up some with sanding discs, then do a solvent wipe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris@Adams Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 Take some pics when done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubrunner Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 It's very rare that you'll find the identical product - just about any product, actually - 10 years later. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcss383 Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 (edited) From my previous research, if there is absolutely no signs of the original floor flaking up and you are putting down the same type, then it is safe to just thoroughly clean and rough the existing surface and paint over. But, if there are any spots where it has flaked or lifted up, then it needs to be chemically stripped. Edited July 2, 2011 by mcss383 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAYBEN Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 :worth: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musclejunkie Posted July 5, 2011 Author Share Posted July 5, 2011 I found the same Rustoleum garage floor epoxy product at HD. It was 96* at my house this weekend, so I am postponing the project till next weekend. The product info. claims it is safe to re-coat after thorough cleaning of the existing surface. I do have a couple of very small areas that have worn off, but to chemically strip the entire floor seems like overkill. I will wire brush those areas first, powerwash and let dry for at least a few days. It is going to take me a couple hours just to move all the junk out of my garage. I'm looking forward to a new floor to detail on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redvenm Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 Can't wait to see the finished product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcss383 Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 I do have a couple of very small areas that have worn off, but to chemically strip the entire floor seems like overkill. I will wire brush those areas first, powerwash and let dry for at least a few days. It is going to take me a couple hours just to move all the junk out of my garage. I'm looking forward to a new floor to detail on. If it wore through that is different. The issue is adhesion, if the original is pulling up then the new will too. Just watch it carefully when power spraying, if nothing flakes up when you hit it with a jet of water you are golden. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musclejunkie Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 Just finished caulking the joints pics tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAYBEN Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 :worth: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musclejunkie Posted July 12, 2011 Author Share Posted July 12, 2011 http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll90/Connordogger/2011-07-10122314.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musclejunkie Posted July 12, 2011 Author Share Posted July 12, 2011 Drat! Darn android!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug123 Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Wow, looks great. Nicely done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill-V8V Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Looks great :2thumbs: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redvenm Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Agreed, looks great. If you don't mind me asking... 1. How long did it take? 2. Was the name simply Rustoluem garage floor epoxy? or ... 3. Is it slippery if it gets wet? 4. How long to cure? 5. Is the grey you used the only one available? Thanks, I am wanting to do the same to my garage, so I am curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcss383 Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 I can answer a few of those, we used the Rustoleum for our warehouse's. 1. It took us two mornings. One morning was to power spray (degrease if needed) and acid etch (new install, absolutely must do) and the other morning was to lay down the paint. Total time for a 50'x50' building with two people working was less than 8hrs, maybe 6hrs. 2. I believe that is the name. At my local HD & Lowes it is on the paint aisle toward the 'middle' isle through the store. I have been in a couple stores in the area and that is where I have seen it as well. 3. Yes, to an extent. Next to the paint is some anti-slip additive that you can mix with the paint to reduce that, but the flakes help reduce the slippery-ness some. From what I have read the anti-slip that is sold in HD is short term and wears off somewhat quickly. Maybe someone here has exp. with it. 4. I can't remember this exactly, musclejunkie will have to chime in, but I think it was less than 12hrs for foot traffic and several days before parking a car on it. The longer you give it the better your chances that it won't pull up from a hot tire or easily scratch. I know you can paint in the morning and by nighttime move lighter stuff in with no problems. 5. Others are available. I think my local store only carried gray or tan, but I think more are available. HTHs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musclejunkie Posted July 13, 2011 Author Share Posted July 13, 2011 Grey or tan colors only and only took me two hours to apply by 12" roller for a 24x24 garage. The key is in the prep. I have a couple spots that bled through from the original surface making the finish duller in those spots. They give you the etching powder and it is pretty safe and easy to use - just sprinkle on with garden watering can and scrub with stiff bristle broom. All oil spots must be totally removed or it won't bond and the floor must be completely dry before application. I caulked the joints after the floor was epoxied with grey concrete caulk. Any salt that gets in any joint or crack eats away at an edge, so this time I caulked. Looks good too. I applied on a Friday and drove my car on it the following Tuesday. It makes clean-up of the floor a breeze. You can use the color chips or not. I like em! You just toss them on a 4x4 wet painted area of the floor. It is a good product - the last time I did this was 10 years ago and I only had problems by the floor joints - hence the caulk idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redvenm Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 Thanks for the answers. Looks like I have my next little project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Line-X Of Naples Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 If you have a Line-X store in your area we offer an awesome garage product! If not when we put floors down we grind with an edgeco till you can see the aggregate (all the little pebbles and stones) then vacuum really good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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