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Micro marring - am I being to picky?

hankdog101

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hankdog101

hankdog101

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So I've lived with the micro marring all summer left behind from my spring polish. To bring you all up to speed I have a 09 Shelby GT500, Black. Did my first polish back in April, turned out good but I was left with this micro marring that I can't get rid of. Last weekend I pulled out the PC and did a test spot to see what would happen thinking the clear coat would be easier to work with temp up. Things seemed to be going great. Using the spot light looked like the micro marring was coming out finally. Was using the white pad and polish, 3 passes set on a 5. Then I hit the car with some Revive and after wiping it down, micro marring is back. I used the Adams applicator and micro fiber towels for this step. So, white pad and polish again and looks good then some Americana. Pull the car out in the sun and I can still see the micro marring. Tonight I did a test spot, Orange pad, Orange polish, then White pad and polish. Looks good until a mist of detail spray and a gentle wipe down with the micro fiber towel. I had a friend that has done auto paint professionally for 20 years tell me to be careful with these new cars. Paint is very thin and designed to last 5 years or so. So now I'm worried, am I stuck with the micro marring? Do I attempt to keep correcting it, but what am I doing to the clear coat on the car, how much can it take?

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mikeg6045

mikeg6045

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I have a feeling that your not going aggressive enough. I'm betting that clearcoat it hard, and by the sound of your OP, I believe that you are afraid of going to aggressive and really putting heavy pressure and an aggressive compound to remove those scratch's. That is not micromarring, that is pure swirl central ! That needs to be compounded out. you should be starting with adams most aggressive polish until that is all removed. add 6 ounces of 91% IPA into a 32oz bottle and fill the rest with water. After you compound a testspot remove the residue with the IPA mix to see your true results. That finish is hammered and needs to be aggressively corrected. micromarring or tick marks are the result of using a DA to compound out swirls. Its not what you are showing in your pics. The tick marks or micromarring can be eliminated with Adams fine polish after you compound.

 

I just wanted to add that starting with the least aggressive method first is good practice, but it sounds like you already tried that.

 

If that is OEM paint, its highly likely that its a super hard clearcoat and you will need to go with the SSR/compound from Adams. Someone gave me a 16oz bottle as a sample when it was first released. Although the bottle had no label on it i'm confident that it was the production product. Its a good polish that is not dangerous at all to go to town with. which is why I suggest it to start.

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TK427

TK427

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Typically you would run the Flex at speed 5 with FMP.

 

 

And while it is forced rotation it is still much safer than a rotary, it still osculates and rotates. But it does not rotate anywhere near the speed of a rotary. BUT it will build up more heat so you will want to use a little more polish and move the Flex a little faster than a PC.

 

I like to use the Flex on large panels but I stay a little further away from the edges. Then follow up with the PC and 4 inch pads a little closer to the edges and the smaller areas where the Flex just can not get.

:iagree:Great advice, I was wanting to know more about the flex...I'm getting one as soon as I get the $$$

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hankdog101

hankdog101

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Apparently the clear coat on the GT500's are horrible....there was two local detailers amazed how bad a new vehicles finish was damaged by the dealer and how long it took to correct it. Below is a pic of the guys finish...before pics of course. The guy who did the correction said any microfiber towel he had would mar the finish...no mention which brands he had though.

 

b07a6bef.jpg

I had no idea S.O.S. made a microfiber towel. That's just plan abuse there.

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Chewy

Chewy

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Joe, I don't think anyone on this forum is guilty of being "too picky" about our cars!!! :) I think the Flex will get you much closer, if not right to the level of perfection you are looking for when it comes to getting rid of those annoying marks. I know it did wonders on my black vette which the dealer almost ruined with their rotary polisher, and also knocked out some issues that the previous owner graciously provided in the paint lol. Keep in mind though, it does take a while to perfect a black car.. Lord I know... hahahaha

 

No longer than any other color... You just see them easier which IMO makes it easier to correct black. Just a b word to keep it that way.

 

Chris

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kdii02

kdii02

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Joe, I don't think anyone on this forum is guilty of being "too picky" about our cars!!! :) I think the Flex will get you much closer, if not right to the level of perfection you are looking for when it comes to getting rid of those annoying marks. I know it did wonders on my black vette which the dealer almost ruined with their rotary polisher, and also knocked out some issues that the previous owner graciously provided in the paint lol. Keep in mind though, it does take a while to perfect a black car.. Lord I know... hahahaha

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musclejunkie

musclejunkie

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I noticed on my grabber blue '11 Mustang that I can't get 100% perfection either. It looks fantastic at three or four feet but when you get the right light on it, it aint perfect! No matter how many passes of FMP, with my PC, I still get some hazing and micro scratches. Whatever you do, do not use the SHR on your Mustang. I did a hand application on a test section of my hood on mine and it tore it up. It took me 6 passes with a PC and FMP to get it out. These Mustangs need some serious filler product. The BG is OK, but doesn't contain enough filler. Dupont used to have a product called Fill N' Glaze that was a miracle product. Not sure if it is still made, but it worked wonders on my black Buick Century.

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Vincenzo

Vincenzo

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No way can you be too picky. Not on these boards, atleast. Your finish will last just fine, don't worry about polishing off the clear with Adams. Unless you happen to own a nissan and you can remove the clear on it with a microfiber and some DS like that one guy. That being said, are you sure all of your pads are ABSOLUTELY clean? If little dust particles get on them you may be polishing them into the paint. Also, I would try Adam's advice on the speed setting. It helped when I was doing my car, although it is white.

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redhawk243

redhawk243

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Apparently the clear coat on the GT500's are horrible....there was two local detailers amazed how bad a new vehicles finish was damaged by the dealer and how long it took to correct it. Below is a pic of the guys finish...before pics of course. The guy who did the correction said any microfiber towel he had would mar the finish...no mention which brands he had though.

 

b07a6bef.jpg

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Bill-V8V

Bill-V8V

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Typically you would run the Flex at speed 5 with FMP.

 

 

And while it is forced rotation it is still much safer than a rotary, it still osculates and rotates. But it does not rotate anywhere near the speed of a rotary. BUT it will build up more heat so you will want to use a little more polish and move the Flex a little faster than a PC.

 

I like to use the Flex on large panels but I stay a little further away from the edges. Then follow up with the PC and 4 inch pads a little closer to the edges and the smaller areas where the Flex just can not get.

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hankdog101

hankdog101

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Here's a couple pics. As you can see the reflection is perfect, in the garage (that's lint from the towel in the 2nd pic, not the marring) . I get many compliments about the paint at car shows but I'm out for perfection. I'll pull the car out in the sun tomorrow and take some shots so you can see the marrring.

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Adam

Adam

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Hi Joe, and thanks for using our goods....I'm sorry you have not yet achieved perfection on your GT.

 

First, did you take a look at this video, and follow it exactly?

 

<iframe width="560" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/YE8P2DhP_TE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

Going slow, and bumping the speed setting to 6 will help reduce the micro-marring that can be a part of polishing dark, especially black paint with the PC.

 

Next, we did find that the results achieved with the Flex polisher, especially on black paint, are consistently better.

 

Perfect black paint can be difficult to achieve with the PC, yet, incredibly achievable with the Flex. That was why we introduced it last year!

 

You will want to use the PC still, for regular polishing, so it's not a, "Flex, or Porter Cable," question. You will want both.

 

It's just that when you are scrutinizing your black car, and want it FLAWLESS, as I do, it may require the upgraded polisher.

 

Patience is key with black, and as a fellow black car owner, I always say, "Black.....the masochist's favorite color!"

:pc:

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mbreyer

mbreyer

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Lets see some pics plz. Your friend is a little off on the paint idea. Your clear coat is thick enough to correct hundreds of times if done correctly especially with the pc. The orange pad and shr should wipe out any imperfections in the clear if your technique is down. But some pics would help big time for us to properly diagnose and maybe a little info on your technique.

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