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Scratches on my exhaust?


Redvenm

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On the 2500 wet dry what's the proper use of the wet and dry ?

 

Sent from the Dark Side using G2/Tapatalk

 

I've never done wet sanding but I've read here that the paper needs to be soaked before using it.... But that is for sanding on paint where you want to keep things flat. In this case it seems like you will be using the paper over fingers instead of a block.

 

Looking forward to hearing how it goes for you and seeing your results. :bow:

I want to try this over the weekend too!

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On the 2500 wet dry what's the proper use of the wet and dry ?

 

Soak the paper in water for about 20 minutes. Make up a spray bottle of water with a few drops of soap added. Use the soapy water to lubricate the working area. Use a sanding block, not just your fingers. If you don't have a sanding block, try using wrapping the sandpaper around a sponge.

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The spot you worked on looks amazing! Thanks for giving me hope.:) And thanks to all of you guys for the great tips on this issue:thumbsup:. First chance I get some dedicated time, hopefully next weekend, I'll give it a go.

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Ok guys, here is the result. The pics below show the one spot I attempted to remove the scratches. It is on the left exhaust on the bottom in the middle. I only tried one spot in the event it did not work, I did not want to make it worse and waste a bunch of time.

 

1.Started with the 2500 grit, simply gotit wet and started. Quickly it started to look really bad and I was thinking, "OMG, what have I got myself into?" I was freaking out!!!:help:

 

Remembering some other pics I have seen here using 2500 grit I tried to stay calm and continued.

 

2. Switched to 0000 steel wool after it looked, well, absolutely horrible. Dried the water from the 2500 and started on 0000. I used the steel wool dry, not sure if this is proper, that was how I did it. This seemed to make the "damage" from the 2500 look much better. Although I could still see the original scratches, at this point I was happy to see an improvement over the 2500.

 

Not seeing a tremendous amount of original scratch reduction, it looks much better than after 2500 wet/dry and I followed up with Adams MP 1 & 2.

 

NOW THE SHINE IS BACK, CLEANED UP AND THE SCRATCHES ARE IMPROVING. I WENT FROM FREAKIN OUT TO HAVING HOPE AGAIN!!!:xfingers:

 

3. I repeated the first steps 2 more times and although I only did a very small spot right in the middle of the bottom lip, there was a beautiful mirror like shine after three rounds.

 

So for me, I am very happy with the results but it took forever. About 40 minutes for this little spot. The pics below are tough to see the mirror like shine. Look right in the middle of the left exhaust. The middle is beautiful and the sides still need some love.

 

I am thrilled with the results.

 

Long post, I know, I simply wanted to get this all out there.

 

 

IMG_20110811_185706.jpg

 

IMG_20110811_185836.jpg

 

 

IMG_20110811_185816.jpg

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I guess I should have warned you that it'd look pretty bad when hit with 2500 grit. Looks to me like the results were favorable! Glad I could help!

 

If you look at my thread, you'll see that I actually used MP1 on the 0000 wool and then went back and did it with my finger applicator to get it perfect.

 

Chris

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Hey Chris, yep, a warning would have kept my blood pressure in order.:lol:

 

Thanks for the advice. I know my technique has plenty of room for improvement, gonna try the 0000 with MP1 next time.

 

The pics make it a bit hard to tell but the one spot looks great.

 

I appreciate all the input guys. :rockon:

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Good luck with the scratch removal. How did that happen?

 

From what I have seen, those scratches are just the rough marks left by the mfg process on corvette exhaust tips. Every vette with stock tips seems to have these, some worse than others. The OPs are slightly worse than on my Bride's vette.

 

Anxiously awaiting the OPs results as I want to polish these out too! :cheers:

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I've even used MP2 as a lube with 2500 grit... It's stainless... It'll take a lot to really mess it up. Use the tool I recommended above to speed the polishing process if you want.

 

Chris

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Chrome won't turn your rag black, unless they're full of carbon. I'd bet they're stainless.

 

You can try a magnet test, but usually the stainless used on cars is slightly magnetic.

 

I can see a weld in that pic. Is the outer lip and the inside perforated metal the same piece? If so, it's stainless.

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Thanks Chris

 

I thought chrome turned black. Seems I was wrong.

 

Is the outer lip and the inside perforated metal the same piece? If so, it's stainless. yes it is one piece. Therefore it is stainless?

 

Should I assume your original recommendation applies? Will Lowes or H Depot carry 2500 grit?

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Chrome won't turn your rag black, unless they're full of carbon. I'd bet they're stainless.

 

You can try a magnet test, but usually the stainless used on cars is slightly magnetic.

 

I can see a weld in that pic. Is the outer lip and the inside perforated metal the same piece? If so, it's stainless.

 

I have the NPP exhaust on our Vette also. I believe these are stainless but they don't seem to be magnetic. I've spent some time polishing these and have them looking pretty good, but do have some scratches like the OP shows in the pic. Will try the steel wool first and then if that doesn't do it will go more aggressive with some wet sanding. Will be nice to have them looking totally smooth and polished! :banana:

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