txredgt Posted September 25, 2011 Share Posted September 25, 2011 Just curious if anyone on here has tried to do it on their own. I have seen it done before and I think I can do it myself but I am wondering if others here have. I would just be doing the 2 front windows. Is there a junkman writeup on how to tint your windows? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris@Adams Posted September 25, 2011 Share Posted September 25, 2011 I haven't, but I do know that your windows have to be super clean, and patients is key.Good luck and report back if you do them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChargerMatt Posted September 25, 2011 Share Posted September 25, 2011 I watched them do it to mine and it just seems like applying anything vinyl. Clean surface, patience, a squeegee, an a pin to pop little air bubbles. I should try it on my beater for ****s and gigs. hmmm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichiganSRT8 Posted September 25, 2011 Share Posted September 25, 2011 I did the tints on my escalade before i got my jeep. Its not that bad but just take a sh*t ton of patience. I think if you can find someone around you that will do it is just your best bet. I got both of mine done by a shop in down on my jeep for 50 bucks on my 2 fronts to match up, 50 is nothing compared to what bs you go through in that process if its your first time. Now if they are gunna charge you over 100 then yeah its worth it to tackle yourself. Like anything takes learning, might have to rip them off once if you do it wrong, that happens alot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Tegeler Posted September 25, 2011 Share Posted September 25, 2011 I would jsut pay to have it done man, I have tryed to put some on and even tryed pre cut sheets and it was a lot of frustration lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mc2hill Posted September 25, 2011 Share Posted September 25, 2011 I did mine a loooong time ago, but have paid professional installers for the last 20 years of cars. They can do it quickly and warranty their work. There are lots of good ones around here, but you may have not have that luxury where you live. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LimitedDodge Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 Depending on the vehicle it isn't to bad. Specially something that does have a window frame. Make sure you are in a garage with no wind and clean the windows real good with a razor and squeege. Everything will show if it gets trapped in the tint. A couple drops of baby shampoo in water for solution. I always buy the precut tint from "elite tint" of eBay. Good quality. The back curved window is where it gets hard. Heat gun to shrink. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txredgt Posted September 26, 2011 Author Share Posted September 26, 2011 Depending on the vehicle it isn't to bad. Specially something that does have a window frame. Make sure you are in a garage with no wind and clean the windows real good with a razor and squeege. Everything will show if it gets trapped in the tint. A couple drops of baby shampoo in water for solution. I always buy the precut tint from "elite tint" of eBay. Good quality. The back curved window is where it gets hard. Heat gun to shrink. Yea I definately need to use my buddies garage when I do it. It will be on my 02 GT and its just the front windows like I said so its not too hard. I am considering replacing the interior felts on the doors too as the window does get scratched a bit, that's if the cost isn't too much. I would like to take the 5% tint that is on and put 15% on it and I don't think a shop would do it for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Tegeler Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 shop did 35% for me which is illegal in Iowa, I just had to sign a waiver saying he was not to blame for it pretty much lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichiganSRT8 Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 I got 15 all around on my jeep, been pulled over multiple times, no tickets. Did you get the mustang with 5% on the front? thats like black. 15 is prty dark here and at night looks mean but i can still see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txredgt Posted September 26, 2011 Author Share Posted September 26, 2011 I got 15 all around on my jeep, been pulled over multiple times, no tickets. Did you get the mustang with 5% on the front? thats like black. 15 is prty dark here and at night looks mean but i can still see. I've been pulled over before for ticky tack stuff and not speeding, kinda ironic I have had 2 tickets now in this car, 1 for not having a stupid front plate on the car and now this one. I did get the car with the 5% on it but I don't think that card will fly in court as I have had the car for 2 years. The law here is 25 in the front and then 5% all the way around past that. I really dislike having the tint darker in the back but it's best. I'd love to get a Dr's note saying I can have it as my granddad had melanoma and both of my parents have had cancerous moles removed from them too. I am as pale as they come! Oh and don't get me started on the front license plate, its still not on the front bumper lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txredgt Posted September 26, 2011 Author Share Posted September 26, 2011 What I did find funny though was the officer was able to see me in the inside lane of IH35 right outside of Austin and he didn't stop the person next to me who was going at least 6-8 over. Oh well such is life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beard Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 I have had the same front plate problems with Mustangs that I have owned in the past vs police. I found a company that makes custom brackets that do not require you to drill the front end. They are called Craigs Custom Brackets. Product is made in located in VA. These things are inexpensive and great because you can add or remove quickly. When detailing and going to car club meets I would take plate bracket off. Only took about 30 seconds to remove or put on after inital install. Link is below for you. Welcome to Craig's Custom Mustang Brackets (I am in no way associated with Craigs Custom Brackets, just a happy customer sharing a good USA made product with fellow mustang owners) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txredgt Posted September 30, 2011 Author Share Posted September 30, 2011 I have had the same front plate problems with Mustangs that I have owned in the past vs police. I found a company that makes custom brackets that do not require you to drill the front end. They are called Craigs Custom Brackets. Product is made in located in VA. These things are inexpensive and great because you can add or remove quickly. When detailing and going to car club meets I would take plate bracket off. Only took about 30 seconds to remove or put on after inital install. Link is below for you. Welcome to Craig's Custom Mustang Brackets (I am in no way associated with Craigs Custom Brackets, just a happy customer sharing a good USA made product with fellow mustang owners) Oh I have known about Craig's and I had talked to him extensively about it for my car but the problem is, the front bumper I have does not lend itsself to this design. BTW side note, if he had options for vette owners I bet he would have something along with camaros too. I don't want to get into laws and whatnot as this isn't the place. The front license plate law though is a joke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Adam's Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 Tried DIY once... just wasn't worth the hassle IMO. I'd much prefer to pay a pro and have the warranty to rely on should I need it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txredgt Posted October 1, 2011 Author Share Posted October 1, 2011 Tried DIY once... just wasn't worth the hassle IMO. I'd much prefer to pay a pro and have the warranty to rely on should I need it. Yea I understand what you're saying. I think I am going to try it myself this time and see if my results are worth a flip. If not, I can take a razor blade to it and go get it done. I'd love to see if I can do it first though to make it 1 more thing I don't need to rely on a shop to do. Next up after that will be body work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gone & Forgotten Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 Have a heat gun (blow dryer will work, low air setting), someone to help hold the larger pieces and a ton of patience. Little dish soap in the sprayer when spraying the inside of the tint. I use distilled water on the glue side of the tint. I'm taking the new Camaro to a local shop that has computer cut tint. No knives hitting my stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian6 Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 Have a heat gun (blow dryer will work, low air setting), someone to help hold the larger pieces and a ton of patience. Little dish soap in the sprayer when spraying the inside of the tint. I use distilled water on the glue side of the tint. I'm taking the new Camaro to a local shop that has computer cut tint. No knives hitting my stuff. they will still have to clean the inside of the window with a razor blade... if the shop knows what theyre doing you have nothing to worry about even if they arent using a computer to cut the film [plotter] I tint windows at best buy we use llumar which is a very good film on par with 3M, its not worth the hassle to do it yourself trust me. the tint you'll be able to order online or get at the auto store is purely cosmetic and doesnt do anything for keeping out the uv rays and keeping you cooler in the summer. pay to have it done so you'll have a lifetime warranty imo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txredgt Posted October 3, 2011 Author Share Posted October 3, 2011 they will still have to clean the inside of the window with a razor blade... if the shop knows what theyre doing you have nothing to worry about even if they arent using a computer to cut the film [plotter] I tint windows at best buy we use llumar which is a very good film on par with 3M, its not worth the hassle to do it yourself trust me. the tint you'll be able to order online or get at the auto store is purely cosmetic and doesnt do anything for keeping out the uv rays and keeping you cooler in the summer. pay to have it done so you'll have a lifetime warranty imo I'm going to get the Fx line from 3m precut and do it myself. Will I need a heatgun for the front windows or just get all the air out and don't roll the windows down for a week or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike6187 Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 Hello guys! I'm planning to remove my tint myself, hope I can survive the hard work in removing it by the way, anyone here already tried using a blue window tint? I wanted to try this color. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChargerMatt Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 Hello guys! I'm planning to remove my tint myself, hope I can survive the hard work in removing it by the way, anyone here already tried using a blue window tint? I wanted to try this color. I've seen cars with it... looks goofy IMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryAWD Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 Pro Window Tinter here. All of the tint is a film, and the patterns are all cut from the exterior of the glass and then applied on the inside with a mild soap and water solution. Have a heat gun (blow dryer will work, low air setting), someone to help hold the larger pieces and a ton of patience. Little dish soap in the sprayer when spraying the inside of the tint. I use distilled water on the glue side of the tint. I'm taking the new Camaro to a local shop that has computer cut tint. No knives hitting my stuff. Computer cut patterns suck. They rarely line up correctly, don't cover enough of the window (usually will end up with "light gaps" on the sides of the windows) and the back window kits are nearly impossible to get shrunk correctly without burning the edges or literally shrinking the film until it's too small to cover the window. I've never cut a car or scratched glass from my blades... if you're spending the time to take it to a shop, have them custom-cut all the tint FOR YOUR VEHICLE. Here's a 2010 that I did, the customer said that he was the second one to take delivery of the new Camaro's in town. We use baby shampoo and water for the application solution. No poking holes in the film to get "bubbles" out... Squeegee all the water out between the glass and the film. If there is something stuck between the film and the glass, then it's contamination and isn't going anywhere. Tried DIY once... just wasn't worth the hassle IMO. I'd much prefer to pay a pro and have the warranty to rely on should I need it. That's how it should be done... even if you tint it yourself with tint they sell at the auto store and on eBay, you'll be tinting it again. Either from it peeling, turning purple, bubbling, etc. Those films aren't made to last. They are all mostly 'dyed' films. We use a lifetime metallized tint that is backed by a NATIONWIDE lifetime warranty through the manufacturer. Hello guys! I'm planning to remove my tint myself, hope I can survive the hard work in removing it by the way, anyone here already tried using a blue window tint? I wanted to try this color. Removing film off of glass that doesn't have antennas or defogger lines is simple, but a lot of work. Soapy water and a razorblade. For the back windows, take it to a shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07RS4 Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 Love it when pro's are on the forum! Really good info man, thank you for posting. I really want to get mine tinted. What are the major things I need to look for? Ie. types of tint, etc. I heard the back should be one piece, is that true? Do you tint all the way to the edge of the window when rolled down? TYIA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryAWD Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 There are a few basic types of film: a) Dyed film. This is the stuff you see at the auto parts store and eBay. One single layer with a very cheap adhesive. You'll be lucky to see this stuff last 6 months before it starts to loose color and clarity. Usually very blurry right out of the box, and hardly any scratch resistance. This is the stuff the cheap shops use with their "$99 COMPLETE TINT JOBS". Metallized film. This film is made up of many layers of film, which have very small flakes of metal which make up the color stability and clarity. They also have an additional "scratch resistant" layer. These films are considered a lifetime film and are usually backed up with a warranty from the manufacturer. Price is usually in the $150-$220 range for a full vehicle. c) Ceramic film. This is a relatively new technology to automotive window films. This film has all the same benefits of a lifetime, metallized film except that being ceramic, it allows any and all radio frequencies to pass through the film. Some high end cars like a lot of MB's, Lexus, and BMWs have a lot of their antennas for the GPS and (AM) radio embedded in the back glass. To insure zero interference with lifetime longevity, the ceramic films are the way to go. PERSONALLY, I have never had any issues with the metallized film and signal loss, but some do not want to have that worry. A tint job with ceramic film can vary between $230-$300. We usually get within 1/16 of an inch to the top of the glass. Having the film hanging over the edge will cause the film to peel over time. On frameless window doors (Camaro's, Corvettes) I can also do what we call "micro-edging" where I apply the film a little bit over the edge, heat the film (pre-curing the film to the glass) and literally take a file and shave the tint smooth to the edge of the glass. This takes a few extra steps and I usually charge $20/dr. if a customer wants it done. Yes, all my back windows are done in one piece and any professional should be able to do the same. If not, find a different shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07RS4 Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 There are a few basic types of film: a) Dyed film. This is the stuff you see at the auto parts store and eBay. One single layer with a very cheap adhesive. You'll be lucky to see this stuff last 6 months before it starts to loose color and clarity. Usually very blurry right out of the box, and hardly any scratch resistance. This is the stuff the cheap shops use with their "$99 COMPLETE TINT JOBS". Metallized film. This film is made up of many layers of film, which have very small flakes of metal which make up the color stability and clarity. They also have an additional "scratch resistant" layer. These films are considered a lifetime film and are usually backed up with a warranty from the manufacturer. Price is usually in the $150-$220 range for a full vehicle. c) Ceramic film. This is a relatively new technology to automotive window films. This film has all the same benefits of a lifetime, metallized film except that being ceramic, it allows any and all radio frequencies to pass through the film. Some high end cars like a lot of MB's, Lexus, and BMWs have a lot of their antennas for the GPS and (AM) radio embedded in the back glass. To insure zero interference with lifetime longevity, the ceramic films are the way to go. PERSONALLY, I have never had any issues with the metallized film and signal loss, but some do not want to have that worry. A tint job with ceramic film can vary between $230-$300. We usually get within 1/16 of an inch to the top of the glass. Having the film hanging over the edge will cause the film to peel over time. On frameless window doors (Camaro's, Corvettes) I can also do what we call "micro-edging" where I apply the film a little bit over the edge, heat the film (pre-curing the film to the glass) and literally take a file and shave the tint smooth to the edge of the glass. This takes a few extra steps and I usually charge $20/dr. if a customer wants it done. Yes, all my back windows are done in one piece and any professional should be able to do the same. If not, find a different shop. Wow, thanks for taking the time Bryan. One of the most informative posts I've read. I will be sure to arm myself when looking for a good shop here. I'll call around and report back as to what they are using. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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