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Cannot get barrels clean on my g.s. Vet


jack5hd

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Mook asked me about this, so I'll stick my nose in here....by way of "references", I'm now on my 7th Vette, and tend to keep them pretty clean with Adams products....

 

 

Some random comments:

  • The C6 Vettes throw a *LOT* of brake dust!
  • This can be most easily avoided (although an expensive solution) by purchasing a ZR1 - the carbon ceramic is *MUCH* less "dusty" (by a factor of 100) than other models.... :)
  • The barrel of the/some wheels is now textured (I believe to make the dust appear more "consistent" across the surface - it looks like more of a uniform color, rather than the "camo pattern" that would occur when the barrels were smooth.) Still, even if uniform, it's ugly...
  • I do not ever recall the barrel being painted, or even coated - but I would presume it could be factory coated with something - but not paint, IMHO.
  • The best solution (as many have stated) is to remove the wheels, do a thorough cleaning (non-abrasive, if possible), and then put some form of protection on the surface for easier clean up in the future. Many in my club are "trophy-hounds" at Corvette shows, and this is what they do....

As an aside, I had Dave Tatman (Corvette Plant Manager) looking at my car during 2010 Carlsile - one of the guys in my club (with a 2010 GS) mentioned the copious amounts of brake dust, and Dave replied "that's normal"....my interpretation is that the pads are the best combination of cost, stopping power, etc. as decided by GM, and the dust is an undesirable side effect we have to live with.

 

GOOD LUCK!

 

:2thumbs:

 

 

:rockon:

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Stay tuned man, I am doing some research for you.

 

Mook

 

Mook asked me about this, so I'll stick my nose in here....by way of "references", I'm now on my 7th Vette, and tend to keep them pretty clean with Adams products....

 

 

Some random comments:

  • The C6 Vettes throw a *LOT* of brake dust!
  • This can be most easily avoided (although an expensive solution) by purchasing a ZR1 - the carbon ceramic is *MUCH* less "dusty" (by a factor of 100) than other models.... :)
  • The barrel of the/some wheels is now textured (I believe to make the dust appear more "consistent" across the surface - it looks like more of a uniform color, rather than the "camo pattern" that would occur when the barrels were smooth.) Still, even if uniform, it's ugly...
  • I do not ever recall the barrel being painted, or even coated - but I would presume it could be factory coated with something - but not paint, IMHO.
  • The best solution (as many have stated) is to remove the wheels, do a thorough cleaning (non-abrasive, if possible), and then put some form of protection on the surface for easier clean up in the future. Many in my club are "trophy-hounds" at Corvette shows, and this is what they do....

As an aside, I had Dave Tatman (Corvette Plant Manager) looking at my car during 2010 Carlsile - one of the guys in my club (with a 2010 GS) mentioned the copious amounts of brake dust, and Dave replied "that's normal"....my interpretation is that the pads are the best combination of cost, stopping power, etc. as decided by GM, and the dust is an undesirable side effect we have to live with.

 

GOOD LUCK!

 

:2thumbs:

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I wonder if there was at one point, an acid-based cleaner used that etched the inside of the barrels? Dealers often use that type of product, as do some car washes.

 

Eagle 1 makes a product called, "Wire Wheel Cleaner" or "Etching Mag Cleaner." Both are acid-based, and can etch the barrel, making it easy for dirt to embed in the finish...possibly.

 

Certainly, it's worth removing a wheel, and using a fender brush with All Purpose Cleaner to scrub them clean from back side.

 

I'd like to hear how that goes, and please call me directly when you have a wheel off, and I'll walk you through!

 

Adam: 720-473-7100 or cell: 303-718-9480

 

Thanks!:)

now that is some custoemr service right there! :cheers:

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I wonder if there was at one point, an acid-based cleaner used that etched the inside of the barrels? Dealers often use that type of product, as do some car washes.

 

Eagle 1 makes a product called, "Wire Wheel Cleaner" or "Etching Mag Cleaner." Both are acid-based, and can etch the barrel, making it easy for dirt to embed in the finish...possibly.

 

Certainly, it's worth removing a wheel, and using a fender brush with All Purpose Cleaner to scrub them clean from back side.

 

I'd like to hear how that goes, and please call me directly when you have a wheel off, and I'll walk you through!

 

Adam: 720-473-7100 or cell: 303-718-9480

 

Thanks!:)

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Thanks everyone...........i clean the wheels with every wash.....also leaf blower is used.....in hindsight i was at eureka springs in october for corvette rally and did wash my car there but had no leaf blower....there was a lot of brake dust because earlier in the day had some fun on their roads (like being on your own personal roller coaster:d)....i will take wheels off when i get time.jack

 

Sounds like a blast Jack! :2thumbs:

 

I'd be willing to bet with some more intense cleaning with the wheels off you can get them looking good again. Definitely try claying with an old piece of clay too.

 

Al's suggestion to upgrade to the ceramics is a good one... my TBSS had extremely dusty brakes from the factory and I was constantly fighting to keep the wheels clean (like you are) I swapped out the pads for ceramics and *POOF* no more dusting problems. The wheels would hardly ever get dirty after that.

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Seriously Im in shock sometimes on how the Customer Service is at this Company, its just insanely good. They go out of their way to make sure your happy!!! WHO DOES THAT!!!!!!!

 

Im so glad ADAMs does business they way they do!

 

 

now that is some custoemr service right there! :cheers:
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i won't be able to clean the wheels like is being suggested for a few weeks......i am adding on to my garage and won't have heat for a while...i am thinking the soft scrub with bleach done me in.what happened is in my original purchase everything was 16 oz. bottles.........i bought gallon re-fills of wheel cleaner and such and while waiting for shipment i cleaned the barrels with the soft scrub:( i will take them off and get them cleaned............jack

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The correct answer is you need a de-ironizing product, which Adam's doesn't make so I can't recommend one to you. Of course, I use one and it works great!

 

I'd also use a de-tar product, which Adam's also doesn't make.

 

Then, I would clay the barrels, hand polish, clean with APC to remove the polishing oils, and then seal them with two coats of machine super sealant applied by hand. This is what I have done to my wheels and they came out beautifully.

 

Dylan, can I recommend two products to him since Adam's doesn't carry these?

 

closewheeldirty.jpg

 

wheelclean3.jpg

 

I tried for maybe 45min today to get the barrel clean on one of my A8 wheels with no luck. I maybe got 20% improvement using Adams Shampoo, Green Wheel Cleaner, APC, Non-Adams Clay, a de-ironizing product, plus a lot of elbow grease. Pretty much whatever didn't come off with the initial wash wasn't coming off. There were numerous little tar blobs which I was able to get off with my fingernail, but the dark areas similar to your first picture are still very dark. The clay bar was definitely getting dirty, but after scrubbing for maybe 30seconds in a small area, the surface didn't look any different. I'll be happy to spend a lot more time on it if I see improvement, but I seemed to be getting no where so I gave up.

The surface does seem fairly porous, certainly not as smooth as the front clearcoated silver paint.

Frustrating :willy::mad::willy::mad::help:

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AudiOx, PM me which de-ironizer you used if you don't mind.

 

I'd try Lifter 1 Bug and Tar from Autozone to remove those bits of tar. That's not a name-brand product, but I tried it because it was on sale and I found it better than the 2 or 3 other similar products I have tried in the past including very popular selections such as Tarminator.

 

I'm pretty sure you have a machine polisher from what I remember of your previous threads. If that barrel is clear coated I'd probably try and use a very aggressive polish/pad combo and remove the outer layer of clear to see if that will also remove the contamination.

 

You could even try a Mother's powercone on a drill for the job as I used one to polish my clear coated wheels and it worked great for getting in all the angled bits of the outer wheel face. I'm going to pick up the mini-powerball with the extension for polishing wheel barrels while they're still on the car.

 

Anyway, that's a little off topic, but I'd probably get some bug and tar remover from the local auto parts store and then continue trying to clay the wheel. If that doesn't work I'd try and aggressively polish off the surface contaminants. It's really hard to say without seeing the actual wheel.

 

After that, I'm really not sure what else could be done. Well, I know I'd attempt an sanding/aerosol paint/aerosol clearcoat/wet sand/polish job myself, but that's just me and I like to try new things much like how I aerosol painted and cleared my Chevy Bowties here: So I decided to paint my bowties black granite metallic... - Chevy Malibu Forum: Chevrolet Malibu Forums

 

Let me know if you want help tracking down good paint/clear online if you have to go that route. I'll let you know where I bought mine.

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The correct answer is you need a de-ironizing product, which Adam's doesn't make so I can't recommend one to you. Of course, I use one and it works great!

 

I'd also use a de-tar product, which Adam's also doesn't make.

 

Then, I would clay the barrels, hand polish, clean with APC to remove the polishing oils, and then seal them with two coats of machine super sealant applied by hand. This is what I have done to my wheels and they came out beautifully.

 

Dylan, can I recommend two products to him since Adam's doesn't carry these?

 

closewheeldirty.jpg

 

wheelclean3.jpg

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Thanks everyone...........i clean the wheels with every wash.....also leaf blower is used.....in hindsight i was at eureka springs in october for corvette rally and did wash my car there but had no leaf blower....there was a lot of brake dust because earlier in the day had some fun on their roads (like being on your own personal roller coaster:d)....i will take wheels off when i get time.jack

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As I mentioned in my first post, and has been mentioned in others, you need to pull the wheels to clean them properly. Once they are removed, a stiff brush and and either Adams Green Wheel Cleaner or a 50/50 mix of All Purpose Cleanerand some good old elbow grease should do the trick. I would start with the wheel cleaner first.

I have a set of after market C6 Z06 wheels on my C5 and the barrels on the rear wheels are not chromed and have the rough surface so it is a project to keep them clean. I remove my wheels for a good cleaning 4-5 times a year. The trick I found is to always clean them with every wash. I used the Adams Turbo Stick and Green Wheel Cleaner each time, but one more little piece of advice. After you are done washing the car make sure you dry the barrels completely as well as the brake rotors. I use my leaf blower to get all (or at least as much as possible) the water off the outer surface of the wheel as well as the barrels. I also will use my air compressor with the small nozzel to blow water out of the air vents on the rotors as well as the drilled holes in the rotors

What you may have beside the normal brake dust, is rust from the rotors. Especially if you drive the car right after washing it. All the water that in in the rotor cooling vents is slung out around the inner part of the wheels and if left there can also be a real issue.

Hope this helps and keep us posted.

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I think you are going to need to pull them, use a very stiff bristle brush and copious amouts of Green Wheel Cleaner. As I recall, the surface is way too textured for claying. You might try one of the small wood handle brushes that looks a little like a toothbrush. Use the nylon bristles, not brass. I am fairly certain that surface is painted.

Wish you were closer so I could help.

Bruce

 

:iagree:

 

As a fellow GS Convertible owner, yes, the surface on the barrel on those wheels is textured, not a slick surface.

 

It does need copious amounts of cleaner. I tried a few times before it worked for me. I did get it to work with the turbo stick after a few tries and the secret was in keeping the wheel WET with cleaner.

 

Not 100% sure which product ended up helping me, but it was one of the ones that the OP used (Green Wheel Cleaner or All Purpose Cleaner) but like Bruce said, it needed copious amounts of cleaner, not just a light mist. I went through a bottle of the cleaner doing the wheels for the first time, they were pretty gross -- and very stubborn! :help: (but it is easy and quick to keep them clean now)

 

Try using your finger tip with each of the cleaners on one spot to see how well each cleaner works. If that doesn't work than I would try an old soft tooth brush.

 

Don't let the wheel dry while cleaning or the dirt will re-adhere to the wheel again. Rinse the wheel before proceeding to the next wheel. After rinsing, inspect the wheel again and touch up any areas you missed or where the brake dust started to re-adhere. The turbo stick works well for me in this rinsing process. I rinse, then use the turbo stick to do 'touch up', then rinse again.

 

It will take patience (not my strong suit and this was a great opportunity for me to practice it!), it takes some time getting them cleaned the first time. I cleaned mine without taking them off but in hindsight it would have been easier to remove them. The front wheels have the brake calipers close enough to the wheel that is it difficult to do this initial cleaning without rotating the wheels (my moving the car).

 

Wish you were in my area, would love to be able to help you get it cleaned.

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I think you are going to need to pull them, use a very stiff bristle brush and copious amouts of Green Wheel Cleaner. As I recall, the surface is way too textured for claying. You might try one of the small wood handle brushes that looks a little like a toothbrush. Use the nylon bristles, not brass. I am fairly certain that surface is painted.

Wish you were closer so I could help.

Bruce

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After you've 'cleaned' them as best you can, have you tried using a clar bar on them to see if it will lift the remaining contaminants?

 

I was thinking the same thing as I read through the posts. If you've tried the cleaners, both APC and GWC with the wheels removed: I'd move to clay next. You may need to get a Medium Grade clay at your local Automotive Paint and Body Supply Store. As with all products that are going to touch your vehicle: start with the least aggressive first, like the Adam's Clay before moving to the Medium Grade.

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