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i don't use tape. just dress the plastic trim with SVRT, and polish/wax on the trim comes right off. if i had a clear bra, i would tape the seams of that though.

 

i typically just stay away from the panel seams until the end of a pass, so a bunch of polish doesn't get in there.

 

 

Bingo.

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glad I saw this maybe someone will know. Ive been tired of going getting rolls of the 3M green automotive tape from the store. Anyone know of a bulk order anywhere for it? Id be willing to go 50/50 with someone if its too much.

 

I checked out Ebay. There are guys selling cases on there. I don't know if the price is reasonable, but its just another place to look.

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Go to a paint store, as a paint store owner I sell tape in bulk all the time. 3m usually comes in boxes of 24 or 36 if you want a box. Also for a little lower cost alternative, Painter's Mate makes a green tape that is as good as the 3m blue for less cost.

 

Good to know, ill have to see if i can order through a local store for a bit less.

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Ill have to check that out. I gotta think you can buy them in bulk somewhere, like 12 rolls or something each discounted. ill have too look around.

 

Go to a paint store, as a paint store owner I sell tape in bulk all the time. 3m usually comes in boxes of 24 or 36 if you want a box. Also for a little lower cost alternative, Painter's Mate makes a green tape that is as good as the 3m blue for less cost.

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Are you a Amazon Prime Member? I get my 3 odd sizes from them with free shipping.

 

Then the 2 most common sizes 18mm and 36mm I get from Wally World.

 

$3.xx a roll for the smaller stuff and $5.xx a roll for the bigger stuff. I've never seen it in bulk...but then again, I've never checked anywhere.

 

Ill have to check that out. I gotta think you can buy them in bulk somewhere, like 12 rolls or something each discounted. ill have too look around.

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glad I saw this maybe someone will know. Ive been tired of going getting rolls of the 3M green automotive tape from the store. Anyone know of a bulk order anywhere for it? Id be willing to go 50/50 with someone if its too much.

 

Are you a Amazon Prime Member? I get my 3 odd sizes from them with free shipping.

 

Then the 2 most common sizes 18mm and 36mm I get from Wally World.

 

$3.xx a roll for the smaller stuff and $5.xx a roll for the bigger stuff. I've never seen it in bulk...but then again, I've never checked anywhere.

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If your masking something off like a vinyl stripe or clear bra then the overlap needs to only be a tiny bit... 1/16-1/8th inch is plenty and that small of an area after the tape is pulled isn't noticable.

 

If you're masking panel gaps then you'll mask the opposite edge first, work that panel, then pull the mask and work the opposite side of the gap, leaving nothing untreated.

 

Oooh, nice tip. I never thought of that one. I've never noticed unpolished lines or anything when I use the really small tape, just enough so that the tape sticks, generally the 3 or 6mm stuff. Maybe I'm not looking close enough:help:

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Glad someone asked about this: I was thinking about this but hadn't had time to search.

 

When an area is taped, between the hood and fender for example, doesn't this leave an unfinished area? What do you do about this?

 

If your masking something off like a vinyl stripe or clear bra then the overlap needs to only be a tiny bit... 1/16-1/8th inch is plenty and that small of an area after the tape is pulled isn't noticable.

 

If you're masking panel gaps then you'll mask the opposite edge first, work that panel, then pull the mask and work the opposite side of the gap, leaving nothing untreated.

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This is all really great information! The pictures help a tremendous amount!! Thanks for everyone that has added to this thread! More pictures would be a huge benefit as i know i learn alot better visually as probably most of you do too! Or maybe I'm just slow...

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^^^ That is good. Very good. ^^^

 

Only things I would do different, and it's only personal preference.

 

1. I can't tell if your wiper nozzles are taped. They look it, but if not, do those. One of the most notorious polish trappers.

 

2. Take off roof rack, it's worth the trouble in the end and is usually only 4 screws/bolts.

 

3. Windshield surrounding rubber.

 

4. Fog light gap.

 

5. Panel gaps with 3 - 6 mm tape.

 

6. Honey comb filter and wiper area. Tape off with 3M masking paper. I got a 750' roll for $15.

 

Just what I would do different John, not at all saying your wrong, you're very close to what I do. Since I use a rotary (if the vehicle is bad), the SVRT method doesn't work. One nick at 1500 rpm with a rotary and your rubber is toast. Ask me how I know, haha. Plust I strip my rubber and IPA it before taping.

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Figured I would add pictures here to help out those in need. I also use the SVRT method depending on the vehicle. But I prefer to tape the vehicle instead of wasting the time spending the end of a long day trying to remove wax residue.

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What tape would you recommend when polishing? Do you tape to cover both sides of the panel seams with one strip of tape? Say trunk lid to qtr panel...

 

To each is own, but I am personally on a different school of thought I guess when it comes to prep work. I hate doing it, but it's worth it in the end.:)

 

1. I would recommend 233+ in various sizes, I use 5. 3,6,12,18 and 24MM. This will cover you in any situation, and you won't be trimming and cutting the bigger stuff to fit different scenarios. It's only marginally more expensive than the blue stuff, if at all.

 

2. Take all the time you need to prep ANYTHING you don't want polish on...this includes splatter and dusting. It is a royal PIA to clean up after the fact, trying to get caked polish out of gaps, off rubber in between the door cracks, etc.

 

3. Get some cheap beach blankets. Tape off the rubber on the windshield, the open your hood and use the beach blanket to cover your wiper arm area, then tape off the edges of the towel. This area is a pain if splatter gets all over the cracks and crevises.

 

4. Tape anyt felt gasket's off, like Chris said, it's virtually impossible to get any polish off that is dried on it. If need be, open your sun roof, tape the seals, and the close it back up.

 

5. Use the skinniest tape possible to get all your gaps, while still being able to stick well. This will ensure you don't have to worry about any misteps around the gaps. Depending on what machine you are using, you should never polish a gap...and to think you are going to be that accurate the entire car to not hit any gaps is crazy. You will.

 

6. Don't "piece" the tape together around corners and such, use one long piece to the best of your ability. Ensure you press it gently down to ensure it secure. One edge catches a pad and will rip right up, and your not going to want to take the time to re-apply your tape.

 

7. Have some IPA on hand, because when you remove your tape, you will have a light polish line that you have to remove.

 

Remember, a well prepped vehicle will save you ALOT of time in the end, and will also make your polishing experience that much better. You will have alot more confidence during your polishing knowing that trim you just polished by accident you won't have to clean-up later.

 

Side note: Don't do your undercarriage until after your polishing is done....the dusting and splatter will get trapped in it if it's still wet, and is a beotch to remove. I also just recently bout some wheel covers (or use some cheap towels), they help prevent dusting and splatter on your wheels and tires.

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I tape emblems (especially ones with sharp edges), plastic trim, and any rubber weatherstripping (sun roof surrounds, door seals, etc.). The "extra" time spent taping is paid off when there is no polish to clean off the trim (although a pre-polish application of SVRT can help with the trim), the pads stay clean from not running over the rubber and no chunks are missing from hitting emblems.

Taping seams and panel gaps is really not necessary with the PC.

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You actually don't want to use frogtape... it has a chemical additive in it that reacts with moisture. Theres been some cases of it staining causing damage on trim and other surfaces.

 

Stay away from any tape with an 'edgelock' or additive that prevents paint bleed. You just want straight low tack masking tape... nothing more.

 

It's also cheaper to use the normal stuff. I used straight up 1.5" cheap stuff this past weekend.

 

IMO it MUST be 3M. It just comes off the roll better IMO. Also, storing the excess in a plastic bag increases the longevity of the tape. It tends to dry out otherwise.

 

Chris

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frogtape from homedepot its green

 

You actually don't want to use frogtape... it has a chemical additive in it that reacts with moisture. Theres been some cases of it staining causing damage on trim and other surfaces.

 

Stay away from any tape with an 'edgelock' or additive that prevents paint bleed. You just want straight low tack masking tape... nothing more.

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i don't use tape. just dress the plastic trim with SVRT, and polish/wax on the trim comes right off. if i had a clear bra, i would tape the seams of that though.

 

i typically just stay away from the panel seams until the end of a pass, so a bunch of polish doesn't get in there.

 

I use it around the felt material on my moonroof, and on the bright work, and the clear bra lines and some of the plastic that SVRT wouldn't work on.

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i don't use tape. just dress the plastic trim with SVRT, and polish/wax on the trim comes right off. if i had a clear bra, i would tape the seams of that though.

 

i typically just stay away from the panel seams until the end of a pass, so a bunch of polish doesn't get in there.

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This is a really great question, especially for someone who will be doing their first paint restoration in a couple weeks. I just bought 4 rolls of the 3M green stuff and I'm hoping that will be enough for a full size truck. Figure a little extra prevention will definitely be my friend on the first attempt at it! I would be very interested in a how do video for novice on this subject! Do you guys even span the gap with the tape between where every panel connects? (ie.. front door to back or even around the gas cover). All of the lights and molding and door handles are obvious prime components for a little protection but I would be interested to hear the not so obvious ones you guys isolate.

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