my first well soon detail/paint correction project

[Ralfy]

my PC kit shipped out today along with my car wash trio kit im gonna do my fathers 2004 GMC yukon XL, he washes it every week and takes care of it but where he parks and the DIRT parking lot the truck sits in has really taken its toll on the paint, its got tons of swirls and hard water spots from the days the sprinklers have gone off and got the truck wet. the truck is white so its hard to capture the swirls on camera but you get the idea, also the truck as that chrome plastic grille material, i was wondering what would be the best product to clean the water spots on the grille?? also what can i expect the clay bar to remove? some of the water spots and contaminates? or should all the water spots come out with the clay bar? also will the SSHR remove the move harder deeper water spots? i have watched all the videos on the site and pretty much all of junkman's videos. i just want to make sure it gets done right and then ill educate my father on how to properly maintain it, hes and old school turtle wax/armor all kind of guy haha any tips or secrets you guys can offer up on this? i will be doing a small test panel to see how hard or soft the clear is and using all the info i have watched in the videos as well as read on the forum. if there is anything im missing please let me know and thanks in advance

[Adamized]

Looks like a nice challenge for a beginner.

[BlueGenCoupe]

Nice project. Majority of it is dirt. A good polishing will bring it back to life

 

Good luck.

[07RS4]

 

Also the truck as that chrome plastic grille material, i was wondering what would be the best product to clean the water spots on the grille?? Use revive on a MF applicator, work great on delicate surfaces like the faux chrome/plasitc.

 

Also what can i expect the clay bar to remove? Environmental/airborne contaminants.

 

Some of the water spots and contaminates? or should all the water spots come out with the clay bar? I have never in the 10 or so very bad water spotted vehicles I've done, never seen clay take off water spots, polishing should however.

 

Also will the SSR remove the move harder deeper water spots? It should, but Adams SSR is mild IMO compared to some of the other brands of polish. I had a black truck a month ago, that even the SSR on the focus bads with the PC wouldn't touch.

 

I have watched all the videos on the site and pretty much all of junkman's videos. i just want to make sure it gets done right and then ill educate my father on how to properly maintain it, hes and old school turtle wax/armor all kind of guy haha any tips or secrets you guys can offer up on this? Yes, don't buy turtle wax or armor all products, haha.

 

I will be doing a small test panel to see how hard or soft the clear is and using all the info i have watched in the videos as well as read on the forum. if there is anything im missing please let me know and thanks in advance Yes, please break up your paragraph next time, as a I have a migrane headache now trying to answer your questions, bwahaha.

 

Answered.

 

On the real Chrome pieces...I use the orange 4" pad with SHR (dime size), and Revive (Quarter size) on speed 4-5 on the PC and the chrome comes out like a mirror. Your pads will be jacked afterword though.

[Ralfy]

thanks for the responses! and yes next time i will be sure to do that, sometimes when typing you just keep going and going and going untill your done haha,

and as far as that black truck you had, what would i used in more severe cases like you said?

would i have to use something like the flex?

or what would be the best to get those swirls/scratches out? im also on my pos work computer and im limited to how i can edit with internet explorer

[07RS4]

thanks for the responses! and yes next time i will be sure to do that, sometimes when typing you just keep going and going and going untill your done haha,

and as far as that black truck you had, what would i used in more severe cases like you said?

would i have to use something like the flex?

or what would be the best to get those swirls/scratches out? im also on my pos work computer and im limited to how i can edit with internet explorer

 

On the extreme case I had (they had left the truck in front of the sprinklers day after day), I used my Flex Rotary, the PC, even after tons of passes would only lighten the hard water spots. It kind of shadowed them out, but you could still see them bad. I believe a 3401 would have also gotten them out, yes.

[Ralfy]

so once i get comfortable and put alot of time behind the PC should i maybe think about getting a flex? i saw it in the junkman vid's and i gotta admit i was a little afraid of it haha

[Ralfy]

so instead of oing the truck i did my own vehicle, white 2004 chevy impala, the i started with a wash, the clayed the whole car and did a test panel. i started with the severe since the the area i was doing (roof)was heavily swirled. i saw some of the scratches come out, so i move down to the swirl and haze and saw more scratches come out, then the fine machine, after i has done i had gotten out about 75% of the scratches i wasn't sure if i should start the process over so i left it at that and waited till i could get to the computer to ask, other that that i went over the whole car with swirl and haze remover since the other panels were not as in bad shape like the roof was and it came out great!

 

also when putting on the machine super sealant, how much hazing should i see? i put it on as much as adam did in the videos, the first pass was with a semi large x, then after that i used detail spray untill i saw no more product transfering to the car, is the right way? if i saw no more product going onto the car i added 2 pea size drops and continued to work the product and area. after 40 minutes i wiped the car down with detail spray and it looked good though, so i figured i had done it right. This is my first ever machine polish and i am going to do my mom's car this week, (gunmetal gray chrysler 300c) and see how that goes. here is some pics of my car. i ll try to get an after of the trunk lid, its hard to get good pics on a white car.

[mc2hill]

also when putting on the machine super sealant, how much hazing should i see? i put it on as much as adam did in the videos, the first pass was with a semi large x, then after that i used detail spray untill i saw no more product transfering to the car, is the right way? if i saw no more product going onto the car i added 2 pea size drops and continued to work the product and area. after 40 minutes i wiped the car down with detail spray and it looked good though, so i figured i had done it right.

 

I have never 'reactivated' the MSS. I know it works on the polishes, but I am not sure about the sealant. 2-3 pea-sized portions on each panel should do it. This is applied very thin (which is why it does not too well by hand) over a larger area than you polish, then wipe after 20-30 minutes.

[Doug123]

The MSS doesn't need the continual spritz of DS like polishes do. Just apply a small amount, and use the polisher to spread it around really thin, just a haze. It is probably tough to see it on a white finish. All the polisher is really doing is just spreading the MSS out thin. Thin is in. It doesn't take very much to get the job done with MSS.

 

If you are not sure, you can always (after the 12 hour post-wipe down cure time) put on another coat of MSS.

[Ralfy]

ah ok thanks guys, when i went out to check it now since i havent been out there today there was like some bumpy stuff in the top layer! i got some detail spray and a MF cloth and wiped it away, i did leave the car out side away from trees so the sealant could cure, the stuff wiped away fine but it was kind of scary haha i think it may have been some polish dust im not sure.