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Orange pad clogging issues


CrawlinTBSS

Question

For some reason this orange pad gets loaded fast.

 

Im workin on a car now for a detail, and i primed my brand new clean pad, did a X. got one side of the hood done. just primed it, got other side of hood done. went to the fender, added tiny bit of DS, and a few dots of SHR, did my thang. and Now im continueing on, and i cant seem to get this pad to flush out and clear.

 

its caking up bad of polish. Ive tried just adding DS and doing a section, its still doing its work, but the pores on this pad are so clogged now. Flushing is not working, and now its either too wet, or once the DS dries up on a few passes it starts chalking and throwing polish dust everywhere.( ive read over the sticky on dusting and issues)

 

is there something im doing wrong? ive only applied polish twice( one X and one application of 3 pea dots), and ive gotten the whole door and rear fender done with just adding a mist of DS and its still not clearing out. So im like half way through the car and it looks very clogged and not doing to much work now.

 

ive never had any issues with the white pad and FMP doing this.

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17 answers to this question

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The pad conditioning brush, as Dylan noted, is the key. Hit it on the side of the pad for a few seconds and it will "brush" out any dried up polish and leave your pad looking almost brand new. I NEVER use my orange pad without this in my pocket. I can do an entire car and am left with a pad that looks new by the end.

 

 

 

... What did you do before it was available?

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The orange pad is the most persnickety of the pads, methinks. It's much firmer than the others, and I've also notice I have to keep it a bit more moist than the others to keep it from dusting. I was surprised how much softer the more aggressive green pad was...

 

The pads and polish work together. During testing, we found that the Green Pad with more "open" cells in them, allowed the SSR to break down easier, as it's mostly solids.

 

The pad conditioning brush, as Dylan noted, is the key. Hit it on the side of the pad for a few seconds and it will "brush" out any dried up polish and leave your pad looking almost brand new. I NEVER use my orange pad without this in my pocket. I can do an entire car and am left with a pad that looks new by the end.

 

I'd run my machine on the edge of my detailing cart, a dry grit guard, or a bucket, even a short knap cheap micofiber towel.

 

The brush is far more effective (and less abusive to the pad) but if I did happen to cake up and needed a solution that was it.

 

THIS.

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wierd cause last year i never really seemed to have this problem.

 

I mean i barely used any polish yesterday and it was loaded. Then when i try flushin/adding just DS. sometimes it seems like theres too much DS and then when i go to apply to car its all watery/runny and creates polish whip everywhere.

 

going to have to look into this new brush. I need to stock up on more product and new stuff as well soon!

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The pad conditioning brush, as Dylan noted, is the key. Hit it on the side of the pad for a few seconds and it will "brush" out any dried up polish and leave your pad looking almost brand new. I NEVER use my orange pad without this in my pocket. I can do an entire car and am left with a pad that looks new by the end.

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The orange pad is the most persnickety of the pads, methinks. It's much firmer than the others, and I've also notice I have to keep it a bit more moist than the others to keep it from dusting. I was surprised how much softer the more aggressive green pad was...

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Using a PC.

 

I havnt watched the videos in over year but when i saw Adam do it he applied a medium sized X.

 

I always do that to start and aftert is just pea drops.

 

Car was properly washed with Shampoo/APC mixture, clay bared, and went over with IPA as well ( my usual process before any machine work).

 

I think this pad may just starting to become used up and it may have sat over winter with some polish in it still im thinking. Its slighly clearing out now but im just going to wash it and let it sit for the night and finish up tomorrow. Thankfully car doesnt need to be returned today.

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For some reason this orange pad gets loaded fast.

 

Im workin on a car now for a detail, and i primed my brand new clean pad, did a X. got one side of the hood done. just primed it, got other side of hood done. went to the fender, added tiny bit of DS, and a few dots of SHR, did my thang.

 

This may be one of the reasons its clogging up. In the videos Dylan didn't apply an X, He just applied 1 line. You may have used too much polish.

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Question -

 

Did you strip wash and clay prior to polishing? Many times when a pad clogs up quickly its pulling up stuff from the surface (oxidation, old waxes, etc) This is the reason you want to strip and clay prior to any correction work.

 

Something you can try that should help is to take a liberal amount of DS and spray the pad, then set the machine on a low speed and run it against your hand with a spare towel. This will pull a ton of spent polish and extra crud out of the pad.

 

This is also an area where the Adam's Pad Cleaning & Conditioning Brush helps a ton!

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The Orange pad and SHR seem to show that issue more than the FMP/white pad.

Are you doing 2x2' areas? Sometimes if you try and work larger areas, the polish will dry out before it gets worked fully and can be problematic. Keep using a mist of DS on the pad, and polish 2x2' areas, no larger. Do you have that pad cleaning brush yet? Sounds like a perfect time for it.

 

I got myself a 2nd set of pads for this and other emergency issues (like me dropping the pad(s) on the floor - duh).

 

Normally I only load the pad initially once per polishing session with a big circle or X. The rest of the time is 3 small pea sized drops of polish (think baby green peas), and I alternate polish, no polish, polish, no polish (with a small shot of DS every time on the pad) and only do 2x2' areas so the polish gets fully worked (flashes) for each area.

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