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Taping off the car in sections


Isaacrn

Question

Posted

Ok,

 

I am still prepping for the big day which will be next week on Tuesday or Wednesday. Frankly, I am a bit worried, but I think i will persevere. I live in the desert, so I am going to try to do the wash/clay/polish all in one day starting in the morning.

 

My question for you is do you think it is necessary to tape off the 2x2 areas or just make a mental mark of where you are working? I am having a semi panic attack that I will start, and become overwhelmed and then have a car that has been polished in some areas and not others, but I'm sure once I start that will subdue.

 

I happened to find Junkman's videos on polishing the side of the car, areas that aren't flat. I am glad I came across that.

 

I was debating trying to wash the car and claying on day one, and then coming back on day 2 for the polish, but frankly I have 2 waterless wash towels, and don't know that I want to do a whole wipe down again, when I can possibly fit it all in a day. My plan would be a 7am-7pm type of day, as I know that washing and claying can take 2-3 hrs done correctly.

 

I appreciate the comments.

15 answers to this question

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Posted

No need to tape each area off, you'll be able to see where you've polished once you begin.

 

Don't stress about it, just go in with a plan and you'll be amazed by your results!

Posted

One other quick question. I have a Ash Gray Camaro. I see swirls, but don't know how heavy they are. I do have one scratch, that after looking at pictures on the forum, I think could be worked out. I had originally planned on doing the whole car with severe swirl and scratch remover, but am now thinking I may dial it down to the Swirl and Scratch remover.

 

If I do the scratch with the severe, and work my way down, basically overlapping my area when it catches up to the rest of the Swirl and Scratch polish should be sufficient enough right?

 

I hope that makes sense, as in what the severe step puts on the paint will be equal to what the rest of the car is.

 

I really was going to do Severe the whole way, but think I might be over thinking.

Posted

Use the most gentle polish possible to get the results you're looking for.

 

Tape off a 2x2 section of the car and start with FMP. If a pass of that doesn't get it looking how you want, do a pass of SHR. If that looks better, hit that area with a pass of FMP and you're good to go.

 

Don't waste unnecessary time/product/effort doing the whole car with SSR or SHR if it doesn't need it.

Posted
One other quick question. I have a Ash Gray Camaro. I see swirls, but don't know how heavy they are. I do have one scratch, that after looking at pictures on the forum, I think could be worked out. I had originally planned on doing the whole car with severe swirl and scratch remover, but am now thinking I may dial it down to the Swirl and Scratch remover.

 

If I do the scratch with the severe, and work my way down, basically overlapping my area when it catches up to the rest of the Swirl and Scratch polish should be sufficient enough right?

 

I hope that makes sense, as in what the severe step puts on the paint will be equal to what the rest of the car is.

 

I really was going to do Severe the whole way, but think I might be over thinking.

 

Use the least aggressive method first! You may even be able to get by with FMP. And doing an area with a more aggresive polish should look fine after it has been worked back through FMP.

 

Do a 2'x2' test area to see what it requires, then try that over the entire car.

Posted

You may want to actually tape off one or two 2x2 areas. It is really easy to start off keeping it to that size and eventually creep up to a much larger area. Having some taped off will help keep things in check.

Posted

Obvious answer, but I have to ask. If I start off with Fine polish, and decide i need to go up, I basically go up in polish right? Should I clean off the pads in between, or can i set the fine off to the side and just come back to it again after the swirl and haze remover?

Posted

If you start with FMP and decide you need to get more aggressive, you can put your white pad in a ziplock to help keep any dust off, grab the orange pad and SHR and go at it.

 

Doing a full cleaning of the white pad will lead to a long drying time.

Posted

May I also ask a question along the same lines?

Once you have figured out what steps your going to take from the 2x2 test area. ( let's say you've decided one pass of SHR and one pass of FMP). Do you guys then do a pass of the SHR on the entire car and then go back and do a pass of FMP on the entire care or do you do a section of the car switching pads back and forth. I thought about doing the entire car with SHR first but then I got worried because it was so warm out today that I did the "switch the pads for each section" method. I am trying to cut down the time it takes me to do a full correction, yesterday and today it took me a total of 14 hrs not including clean up of the pads and stuff, Any thoughts?

 

 

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Posted
May I also ask a question along the same lines?

Once you have figured out what steps your going to take from the 2x2 test area. ( let's say you've decided one pass of SHR and one pass of FMP). Do you guys then do a pass of the SHR on the entire car and then go back and do a pass of FMP on the entire care or do you do a section of the car switching pads back and forth. I thought about doing the entire car with SHR first but then I got worried because it was so warm out today that I did the "switch the pads for each section" method. I am trying to cut down the time it takes me to do a full correction, yesterday and today it took me a total of 14 hrs not including clean up of the pads and stuff, Any thoughts?

 

I believe most do the entire car with one pad/polish, then move to the next pad/polish combo. This is faster, as you are not constantly switching pads.

Posted

I did my yesterday working panel at a time through all steps then while the sealant was drying on the panel I went to the other side and worked on a panel. I was working with limited time to so I wanted the areas I did to be protected. Took me 14 hrs, gotta do glaze today still

Posted

When doing the entire car do you leave the

Polish residue or wipe it away. I was afraid of it drying in the heat and it becoming difficult to remove.

 

 

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Posted
When doing the entire car do you leave the

Polish residue or wipe it away. I was afraid of it drying in the heat and it becoming difficult to remove.

 

Your choice. I remove it so I can see the finish, but it is more effiecient to leave it and apply the milder polish on top.

Of course remove any polish residue before applying the wax or sealant.

Posted

I have never found a need to tape off an area to remember where I have done the car. And I really don't think it will take you 2-3 hours to wash and clay bar. I have found that the clay bar actually goes fairly quickly. It seems to do a great job just plenty of Quick Detailer. I know Adam once told me that you don't even have to clean the clay bar residue off the car if you are going to follow with Revive, but since I followed mine yesterday with the Fine Machine Polish, I did use a microfiber towel to remove the residue before the Polish. Good luck.

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