Polishing technique

[Chobbs]

I asked this question in the middle of another thread but I wanted to hear what more members do so I decided to create its own thread. So here is my question.

Once you have figured out what steps your going to take from the 2x2 test area. ( let's say you've decided one pass of SHR and one pass of FMP). Do you guys then do a pass of the SHR on the entire car and then go back and do a pass of FMP on the entire care or do you do a section of the car switching pads back and forth. I thought about doing the entire car with SHR first but then I got worried about the polish residue drying on the finish because it was so warm out today. Is this something I should worry about? I ended up doing the "switch the pads for each section" method.

If you do the entire car and go back do you wipe the residue off or do you leave it sit until you get back around with the FMP???

 

I am trying to cut down the time it takes me to do a full correction, yesterday and today it took me a total of 14 hrs not including clean up of the pads and stuff, and my car was In pretty good shape already. Any thoughts?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[XQIZT]

Craig: Once I perfect my 2x2 area, I then do all of one polish on the entire car, then step to the next. I work in sections as far as my arms car reach left to right (where reasonable). I also wipe off each polish residue before moving on to the next section. Even though I know generally what the car will call for (based on the 2x2 area), I still like to check to make sure I am getting the level of correction before moving on.

 

By doing this, you save on wear and tear on the pads by constantly switching pads on and off.

[DaveVY]

Craig: Once I perfect my 2x2 area, I then do all of one polish on the entire car, then step to the next. I work in sections as far as my arms car reach left to right (where reasonable). I also wipe off each polish residue before moving on to the next section. Even though I know generally what the car will call for (based on the 2x2 area), I still like to check to make sure I am getting the level of correction before moving on.

 

By doing this, you save on wear and tear on the pads by constantly switching pads on and off.

 

[Chobbs]

Thanks for your reply! That should save me some time too!

 

Are there others out there that do not wipe the residue away? Is it an issue if it dries???

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Cjbarton]

On the back of the SHR bottle it actually says to leave the residue on when applying FMP after.

I kinda find this personal preference. I have tried both way and found that wiping away SHR residue allows you to see the FMP flash easier.

[JBlack151]

I do the entire vehicle with each product after perfecting my technique required on my test area. I also like to remove the SHR after each pass as well before moving to the FMP. Try it either way for your own preference

 

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

[mjhpadi]

On the back of the SHR bottle it actually says to leave the residue on when applying FMP after.

I kinda find this personal preference. I have tried both way and found that wiping away SHR residue allows you to see the FMP flash easier.

Although it doesn't hurt to leave the residue on, kinda like leaving the residue after doing the clay bar before using Revive, I really prefer taking off the residue for the reason stated here.

[THE Mook]

Once you get confident enough in your technique, you won't need to wipe off between steps. The first couple times, I would suggest it. I haven't personally done that in quite some time. I will though, do this, if I haven't turned my machine on in a while.

 

 

Mook

[Osok]

Put me down for not wiping off the residue between steps. I just corrected my wife's camaro this weekend. Needed 1 pass SHR and 1 pass FMP. Start to finish actual work time (wash, clay, dress trim, SHR, FMP, MSS, windows) just about 6hrs. Went back the next day and put a coat of Americana on (20 minutes).