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HELP !! Shutoff Valve Removal


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Posted

OKAY, I give up! I have 2 Shutoff Valves that have been returned to me due to not being able to get them off the hose.

 

I have tried WD40, PB, 2 18" wrenches, and I can not get these things to break loose. I set these both up for a customer, and personally know they were only put on hand tight, then checked for leaks, and left alone. I really feel like I am dealing with Galvanic Corrosion between the 2.

 

Does anyone have any ideas ? This has become a quest. I am lost for ideas.

 

:lolsmack:

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Posted
the hard water of houston is what caused this. if you live in an area with brackish water, use anti-seize or plumbers tape, no matter what the material is!

 

San Antonio has some pretty hardwater in some areas. I had my dad check the ones at the office. But they were taken. A**hole workers... Smh...

Posted

Well I can't help you get them off but No-Ox will help keep this from happening. I have been using it for years in my electronics days. It is an anti-corrosion compound we would put between the copper grounding straps and the galvonized steel towers. It is designed to act like a barrior between dissimilar metals to prevent galvonic corrosion. I would bet that is what is happening.

 

Brass is cathodic (-0.4) and aluminum is anodic (-0.95) and the hard water is your electrolyte. The brass and the aluminum are reacting with the minerals in the water to essentailly create a battery. Hence, corrosion. I would be curious to see if there was a measurable DC current between the two metals.

 

Using a no-ox type of product would be a good idea where you have hard water. You may also consider using teflon tape between the two metals.

 

Corrosion Protection-Rust Preventatives-Block Corrosion-Prevent Rust

Posted
the hard water of houston is what caused this. if you live in an area with brackish water, use anti-seize or plumbers tape, no matter what the material is!

 

Yup...if it has any salt/sodium in it, it will just accelerate the corrosive process even more with these two dissimilar metals.

Posted

Interesting. I never personally leave mine on the hose. I always take it off, with the FHN, and store them inside the garage, on my detail cart.

 

WOW.

Posted

Hey Rich, I am super curious. If you have a volt meter can you dunk them in some water (preferably the same source of water that caused this) and put your meter on the lowest setting for direct currect (DC)? Dry the outside of the items. Then, place one lead on the brass and one on the aluminum and see if there is any voltage. It will be a very very low number if anything at all.

Posted

Here is what I would try. Go to your local auto parts store and pick up something similair to this. Not WD40. That stuff IMHO is good for nothing. Spray it good and let it set for a while, even over night. Make sure that it gets a good saturation. Take that Aluminum part and put it in a bench vise with the hose end up and then have at it with a good pair of pliers, small pipe wrench, or vise grips. If you use vise grips be careful so that you don't make it so tight that you collapse the fitting.

 

K & W Knock'er® Loose 1724 - Lubricant Penetrant | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Posted

So I had something exactly like this happen to me today. My kid had put a sprayer on the hose in the backyard and left it there for who knows how long. It was one of those 10 different spray pattern sprayers. I tried to take it off and it was on there tight. I had a product called "the original rust eater penetrating spray". I sprayed it and let it sit for about an hour upside down so the spray would run into the nozzle if that makes sense. I then got my kid to hold the hose with a pair of channel locks and I was able to twist it off. You could see where the spray was breaking the corrosion down and turning it into a jelly like substance. If I would have let it sit longer Iam sure I would have been able to twist it off by hand.

Posted

Wow!

 

I haven't had that happen, but then I don't leave my QD outside on the hose but instead put it on and take if off each time I wash the car. That nozzle setup is too expensive for me to leave it outside for kids to take or to have age in the Florida sun.

 

:lurk:

Posted
Why does it say 100% high quality brass construction and made here, right in the USA, when it's aluminum?

 

The manufacturer makes an identical brass version as well. Probably just a cut and paste error of the information for the brass one.

Posted
The manufacturer makes an identical brass version as well. Probably just a cut and paste error of the information for the brass one.

 

I just checked the manufacturer's website and the last line of the description is interesting:

 

"The 300AL is exactly the same as the 300 Brass, but made from machined aluminum. Lighter weight that its cousin, it is just as durable. Depending on water quality, corrosion may result."

 

I wonder why Adam's doesn't offer the brass one, unless they just want the lighter weight version.

 

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Guest Gone & Forgotten
Posted

use this stuff

 

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BEFORE YOU make the connection.

Posted
Is this just typical anti sieze compound?

 

That's a thread sealant, not anti-sieze. It's teflon in a paste form instead of a tape.

Posted

the hard water of houston is what caused this. if you live in an area with brackish water, use anti-seize or plumbers tape, no matter what the material is!

Posted

I know that valve is made in brass as well! That may be an alternative Adams needs to look at.

 

I have two of the aluminum ones and honestly, I've NEVER removed them. I have QD's on everything so I don't have to remove them.

 

Soak them in CLR or Lime Away for a couple of days... That may help... If you use heat, remove the plastic parts first.

 

Chris

Posted

i put plumber's tape on mine before putting the QD on :)

 

heating it up with a torch is probably the only way to break it free

Posted
Thanks for all of the input guys. I think its best if I get these back to Dylan and Adam to do proper research on them before I destroy what could help a lot of our customers.

 

Ding, ding...that's what I would do. :)

Posted

Thanks for all of the input guys. I think its best if I get these back to Dylan and Adam to do proper research on them before I destroy what could help a lot of our customers.

Posted

Keep in mind the PH of the water flowing through the house and/or any trace electrical current in the homes water supply can accelerate the corrosion process, so in some areas you might see it more than other and in some you might not see it at all.

Posted

Sorry, no idea how you can get them off at this point and them still be usable. The aluminum shutoff valve is untreated so it has no protection against the corrosion between it and the hose it's installed on.

 

Frequently removing it from the hose and or treating it with some anti-seize will help prevent that permanent bond that is caused by the corrosion.

Posted

I think Jim hit the nail on the head with the corrosion, it's the only thing looking at your picture that would cause that. 2 18" wrenches, WOW...that's some serious force man. Two options come to mind.

 

1. If your looking to send them back, I would just pack them up as is, so the Adam's gang can see the issue for future reference.

 

2. If you are hell bent on seperating the two...

 

a. Put the hose ends in a vice, and crush the brass fittings down enough to pull it out.

 

b. Propane torch...not enough to melt the dang fittings or cause a fire, but just enough to break up the corrosion. It will be warm :)

 

c. Let soak overnight in a penetrating oil/CLR type product

 

d. If you have (most likely not) an easy out...go from the rubber hose end and take it out from the back

 

Just a few ideas that come to mind...good luck.

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