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I've been watching a lot of youtube vids and reading a lot of sites and I recently bought a 2010 Challenger R/T and while it's a great car that I got a deal on, the condition of the paint was less than stellar.

 

Normally, I was a OTC product user on my beater that I used to get to Univ./Work, but now that I've bought this, I not only want to fix all the considerable swirl damage, but there are also some scratches here and there. Nothing that looks as if it's in the paint, but that requires some "extra" work.

 

While I don't have one myself, my friend will let me borrow his porter cable to use. Where I live there is also exposure to the elements, but it's akin to a carport and my car is usually protected from the sun shining down on it or being hit by rain, so I'm not sure if that will make a difference?

 

I saw Junkmans videos on youtube and he did all the stuff in the garage. I'd love if he could also give me some insight as well. I'm familiar with compounds and polishes, and might have some old Mother's compound, but seeing as how this is a much newer and nicer car, I want it to be perfect without having me going to a pro-detailer who will probably milk me dry (sorry to you fine professional detailers out there, but why pay when I could probably do it myself). Never "clayed" myself personally, and seeing as how it's not going to be parked where it's completely protected from wind, pollen etc.

 

I'm thinking instead of the cost of the professional detail, I could put that into some Adam's products that will last?

 

Thanks for any and all help.

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Welcome Harold!

 

The Adam's products are perfect for what you are looking to attain. Polishes and pads to get your new ride shiny, and waxes or sealants (or both!) to keep it protected from the elements. You can do the work in the carport (or even in a shaded driveway), but you may have to clean each panel with WW to remove any dust, etc.

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Thank you Chris... One question, let's say I "clay" the car completely, because it is a fast ride that I'll probably drive anywhere and everywhere, and the fact that during rainstorms or heavy wind, while it's covered overhead, but not from the sides, how soon will the "debris" or contaminants come back?

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Thank you Chris... One question, let's say I "clay" the car completely, because it is a fast ride that I'll probably drive anywhere and everywhere, and the fact that during rainstorms or heavy wind, while it's covered overhead, but not from the sides, how soon will the "debris" or contaminants come back?

 

There is an simple test to determine if it needs to be clayed - the baggie test. Take a plastic bag, put your hand inside, then rub the paint. If the paint feels 'rough' it needs to be clayed.

That being said, keeping protection (wax or sealant) on the paint should keep it in good shape.

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Yeah I saw that on the vids online... But the way Junkman was showing it, wouldn't you have to be extra careful with the plastic bag by lifting it up and down gently and not gliding it all?

 

I ran it through a touchless twice just thinking it would get whatever dirt or stuff was on there. Depending on which products I buy and how fast they ship from the Adam's store to Houston, I'll probably spend all of next weekend cleaning it and starting the wash, clay, swirl/scratch removing, polish, and then one or two coats of wax and hopefully not bothering you guys too much if I mess up.

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Not sure what products you have or have already ordered but you should be good with the following steps to try and get your results (there are some other important steps for your wheels/tires and more).

 

-2 Bucket Wash with Car Shampoo

-Detail Spray & Clay Bar process (Make sure not to drop the clay on the ground. If you do, break off another piece and get back to it)

-SSR (test on small area first & make as many passes needed to get the results you are looking for)

-SHR (same testing as above)

-FMP

 

As for a sealant you can use the PC and throw on some MSS or if you want a quicker cure time throw some Quick Sealant on. After 30 minutes you can apply anything else, like a BG or APW. If you go the MSS route than wait 20-30 minutes before removing the residue than allow at least 12 hours or more for appropriate curing time before applying any other products. Here are some links to read up on the sealants.

 

http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/waxing-glazing-sealing/13637.htm

 

http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/machine-polishing/18147.htm

 

The carport will help a lot to provide some shade. In the end make sure to enjoy the process and have patience working on the results you want. Lucky for you Adam's products are the best to achieve this goal. Have fun and post time before/after pics! :thumbsup:

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