BlueGenCoupe Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 While giving my bros White gen coupe a wash, I noticed a lot of these tiny spots which looked like rust. I know this has been brought up before, but What would be my best way to remove these spots? Just claying? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 G8chick Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 Ya! Just clay sould work prob fall out from when it got shipped Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Chris@Adams Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 You got it, clay is the only way to remove them! Adam's Detailing Clay Bar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 AZGTO Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 You got it, clay is the only way to remove them! Adam's Detailing Clay Bar I need to do this to my White Accord...but waiting for it to cool off here a bit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Fit08 Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 Hey Anthony, just like the others say "clay" that is what I do with my white fit and it gets these spots all the time, brake dust especially the back area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 3PedalMINI Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 you need an iron cut product...its called rail dust. will dramatically cut down on marring, also your arms will thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 xkwj43z Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Z71_Denali Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 yeah, i had these rust looking spots on my truck. they're a pain in the butt to clay off. i eventually got an iron cut product and it worked perfectly. its really only a necessity the first time you clay a white vehicle, other colors not so much. Phil @ Detailer's Domain sells the right one you need! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Bully Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Does 'iron cut' act as an abrasive on the paint. I know clay 'pulls' contaminants from the paint and was just wondering how iron cut works if its so much more effective at removing rail dust. Also heard products like that smell like farts lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 BlueGenCoupe Posted July 10, 2012 Author Share Posted July 10, 2012 I just ordered the goods from detailer's domain. My dad wanted the gilmour foam gun kit . Can I just apply the deironizer to the areas where the spots are or should I apply it to the entire panel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Ragweed Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 yeah, i had these rust looking spots on my truck. they're a pain in the butt to clay off. i eventually got an iron cut product and it worked perfectly. its really only a necessity the first time you clay a white vehicle, other colors not so much. Phil @ Detailer's Domain sells the right one you need! How did u order from them? When I call there's never an answer and their Internet site says it's not secure?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Z71_Denali Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 (edited) Does 'iron cut' act as an abrasive on the paint. I know clay 'pulls' contaminants from the paint and was just wondering how iron cut works if its so much more effective at removing rail dust. Also heard products like that smell like farts lol don't quote me on this, but a magical spirit attacks the evil iron spots and dissolves it into purple goop... yeah that's how its done! I just ordered the goods from detailer's domain. My dad wanted the gilmour foam gun kit . Can I just apply the deironizer to the areas where the spots are or should I apply it to the entire panel? just wherever you see them, but if you find the over spray is picking up contaminents, there's probably rail dust on it that is too small for the naked eye to see. in that case i would just go over the entire car with it! saves time when you go to clay bar after. spray some on your wheels after you've cleaned them, you might be surprised what it might pick up, even after GWC has done it's job! be sure to take some pics of it in action if you plan on doing a write up on here How did u order from them? When I call there's never an answer and their Internet site says it's not secure?? once you "proceed to checkout" it becomes secured Edited July 10, 2012 by 2010TexasEdition Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Bully Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Are these iron cut products safe for the paint and clear coat? If so, why doesn't Adams carry any? Wouldn't want the chemicals reacting with other sprays and chemicals I put on my car. Google search producing limited information lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Z71_Denali Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Are these iron cut products safe for the paint and clear coat? If so, why doesn't Adams carry any? Wouldn't want the chemicals reacting with other sprays and chemicals I put on my car. Google search producing limited information lol its pH neutral so its as safe as car shampoo. IIRC, Dylan touched on the subject awhile ago and the reason they haven't come out with one yet, is because its more of an extra step thats not always necessary. most of the time you can get rid of these ferrous metals with the clay bar, but on lighter colored paint, like white and silver, they're more noticeable so your sitting there battling them with a clay bar and marring the paint in the process unless you use a gallon of DS to clay! it won't replace claying, just an extra step on some finishes to reduce the time spent detailing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Team Adam's Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Heres my thought - it only attaks iron contamination... what about the other contaminants? tar? overspray? fallout? So you're going to clay anyways to address those, and clay will more often than not remove the rail dust at the same time. So you can buy a product to treat 1 problem in an area that may have 10, then go back over it with clay, or you can just clay and deal with all of it at once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Z71_Denali Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 thats a great way to put it, but the reason i found it useful the one time i had to use it was, because claying just wasn't removing the rust spots as easily as other things. i literally spent an hour on the bottom half of my passenger door with a clay bar rubbing back and forth, adding mists of DS trying to remove each and every spot before i finally gave up and started researching alternatives. once the iron cut came in, it quickly dissolved said spots with no effort except squeezing the spray trigger and rinsing it off. i don't know how they bonded to the paint that well, i first noticed them after a winter ski trip just after a good blizzard. granted that was probably the last time i'll ever have to use it, so i can't imagine how small the list of repeat customers is for the product, especially if Adam's sold one, with the way we all take care of our rides! seems it would only benefit the full time detailers that see trashed cars every single day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 BlueGenCoupe Posted July 18, 2012 Author Share Posted July 18, 2012 OK so I just got the Ironcut in the mail and I got to say...it flippin stinks...I almost threw up. Anyways, how does it work? just spray it on and let it turn purple? do I have to scrub it with a wash pad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Kustom_FX Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 Here ya go! Detailers Domain Iron Cut Phil@DetailersDomain Directions: 1. Wash the car or wheels surfaces, make sure surface is cool. 2. Shake well, spray on the surface, rub it in with damp sponge thoroughly, wait 5 mins while contaminants change its color to purpel / red, wipe off with damp soft sponge. Don’t let the Iron Cut dry completely on surface! 3. Rinse well or power wash the whole surface. Car is now ready to clay! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 BlueGenCoupe Posted July 18, 2012 Author Share Posted July 18, 2012 Wipe off with a damp sponge? can't I just rinse it off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Z71_Denali Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 OK so I just got the Ironcut in the mail and I got to say...it flippin stinks...I almost threw up. Anyways, how does it work? just spray it on and let it turn purple? do I have to scrub it with a wash pad? yeah, forgot to mention that part. nothing like the Adam's scents so pretty much you want to use it on a just washed car. no need really to dry it, but a pool rinse to remove most of the water on the surface helps. spray the product on, you can use a wash pad to scrub it in, or a wheel brush if your using it on the wheels, and once its turned purple/red you can rinse it off. don't let it dry on the finish! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 BlueGenCoupe Posted July 18, 2012 Author Share Posted July 18, 2012 Thank you Ryan & Scott. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Kustom_FX Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 Heres my thought - it only attaks iron contamination... what about the other contaminants? tar? overspray? fallout? So you're going to clay anyways to address those, and clay will more often than not remove the rail dust at the same time. So you can buy a product to treat 1 problem in an area that may have 10, then go back over it with clay, or you can just clay and deal with all of it at once. I had mixed results with the product. It didn't remove it at all like the pictures showed, well the stuff in my paint is Cinders. Its a derivative of burnt coal waste.. It has iron properties and is NASTY to get out! Well the Iron Cut did weaken it, but I still had to clay, and clay my arms off! So take that for what it is.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Z71_Denali Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 yes, the iron cut only attacks ferrous metals. if it doesn't remove the spots, then they're not ferrous metals and claying would still be needed. but the OP most likely has rail dust on the finish which the iron cut is perfect for Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Bully Posted July 20, 2012 Share Posted July 20, 2012 I'll have to use some of this on my first ever full detail in a week or so.. I think I have a lot of rail dust in the white paint. Thanks for the info guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 BlueGenCoupe Posted July 20, 2012 Author Share Posted July 20, 2012 I haven't tried it yet...hopefully this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 JBlack151 Posted July 20, 2012 Share Posted July 20, 2012 Ordered mine from Phil last night. Let us know how it works for you Anthony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Question
BlueGenCoupe
While giving my bros White gen coupe a wash, I noticed a lot of these tiny spots which looked like rust. I know this has been brought up before, but What would be my best way to remove these spots? Just claying?
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