How dangerous is the Flex?

[pharmassive]

Ok... I have a dilemma. I want to start machine polishing my cars. I take extra good care of them but over time they have gotten to the point where they need a good machine polishing. I work 50-60 hours a week and love spending time with my girls so with my limited time I would assume that the Flex would give me the fastest results. I am scared about ruining the paint though, especially on my beloved S60R which has a lot of curves on it. Is there any reason not to just start in with the Flex? Give it to me real please. I may not post a lot, but I'm always checking this forum, and these are the opinions that i trust. Thanks in advance brothas and sistas!

[scott mc]

I never used a pc I bought the flex and I love it. Haven't used it a lot but in the small session I had it was masterful. Both machines have their place in the detailing world and most who have bought the pc first eventually moved to the flex. It's a natural progression. Those who have both like some have said use the flex on larger panels and set the pc up with the focus pads and use it in tight spot over the drill which can damage the paint if used in the wrong matter.

 

Agreed. This is my set up and it works well.

[CMDChase]

Hey, Angelo,

Take it from a fellow pharmacist...nothing to be afraid of. If you want to try mine, I'd be glad to help you out. I'm in Allentown.

[Quiksilver5882]

Can use the four inch pads with a drill also

 

Agreed, but make sure you don't stay in one spot if you are using a drill. It is the same as a rotary buffer!

[Marylander]

Agreed, but make sure you don't stay in one spot if you are using a drill. It is the same as a rotary buffer!

 

Very true. I once created "holograms" on my wife's car when going after some small scratches with 4 inch pads on a drill. That would not have happened with a PC or flex. (And a PC got them out, btw).

[Ralfy]

I guess to each his own. If you can use the drill and feel confident in your skill to use the drill go for it. I havent made any damage or holograms doing so.

[pharmassive]

Thanks for all the responses and advice. I think I will be going for the flex. It turns out my father in law has a connection that sells flex tools for polishing stone and can hook me up... for the best price I have seen. I'll be back for sure with many, many questions when I get started... thanks again.

[pharmassive]

Ok... so I'm waiting for the flex to come in. I've already received my FMP and MSS to add to the SHR I already had. Since I started this thread most have said that as long as I pay attention there is no risk with the Flex. My next question is, does this apply to all parts of the car? My main concern is the bumpers which I think are painted plastic. Thanks in advance for any answers.

[ihaveacamaro]

Ok... so I'm waiting for the flex to come in. I've already received my FMP and MSS to add to the SHR I already had. Since I started this thread most have said that as long as I pay attention there is no risk with the Flex. My next question is, does this apply to all parts of the car? My main concern is the bumpers which I think are painted plastic. Thanks in advance for any answers.

 

You have to treat bumpers a little differently. In my experience, they have horrible heat dissipation, which means they got hot extremely quick and REMAIN hot.

 

What I like to do, and I learned this from someone else so not taking credit or anything, but what I like to do is start at the edge of one side of the bumper and work it for about 30 to 60 seconds then I go to the opposite side of the bumper and work that. When the second area gets warm, I switch sides again but kind of work in to the middle of the bumper. Doing this allows the bumper to cool and as you wait you finish the other half of the bumper.

 

Just my method, others may have better ways

Edited March 30, 2013 by ihaveacamaro

[ihaveacamaro]

Here I made this picture for you, the arrows aren't pointing at anything in particular, just the area that I would be working on

 

[Ralfy]

Good stuff here!