First Wash + Seal for New Car (+ first time with Adams)

[techman]

Ok so I'm new to the whole pro detailing thing (noob here!) so apologies for the "dumb" questions.

 

I've got my Adams products ready and my new car should be arriving next week so I'm already planning out the first wash (signs of a serious car addict?). I've already watched all the videos (except for polishing). Here's what I've got planned, hopefully i'm on the right track :-)

 

Exterior:

 

1) Wash Wheels (All Purpose Cleaner + Green Wheel Cleaner)

2) Wash Car (2 bucket system)

3) Clay Bar Car (without drying)

4) Re-Wash Car

5) Dry Car (applying Detail Spray + using waffle weave towel)

6) SuperVRT plastic trim

7) Apply Quick Sealant (tempted to do 2 coats… worth it or wasteful?)

8) Apply Buttery Wax

9) …

10) PROFIT???

 

But I still have a few questions:

 

I) I hear a lot of people talking about strip washing the car. Do I need to do this? Isn't clay barring enough? This is coming from the factory (I dunno what the dealer is applying but I doubt they're going to wax it.. I didn't pay for any protectants).

 

II) I'm going to use SuperVRT on the outside trim. But what about the inside rubber seals (weatherstripping) around the doors? Can I use SuperVRT on this too? or is this meant for the Leather & Interior Conditioner?

 

For Interior:

 

I have the Leather & Interior Cleaner, Leather & Interior Conditioner, and Total Interior Detailer.

 

III) This is a new car, do I need to use the Leather & Interior Cleaner before the conditioner? It seems that the cleaner is very strong, perhaps too strong for a new car? Maybe something milder like Total Interior Detailer to clean the car before applying conditioner?

 

IV) I'm planning to apply the cleaning+conditioning to the entire interior (steering wheel, dash, plastics on door, etc etc everything except carpets)… any issues with that?

 

Thanks in advance

[GerryC]

Your steps are in the correct order. Two coats of QS would be good for a car that sits outside and/or regularly sees environmental elements. When you figure out the step before profit, let me know

Strip washing is not only good to remove any old wax but it can aid in the removal of other contaminants that a pH neutral soap like our Car Shampoo wouldn't take off. It's helpful to "start from scratch" (no pun intended) when planning a full detail. Simply add a few ounces of APC to your wash bucket.

Super VRT is great for weatherstripping, I always treat my door seals with it to keep them looking like new and prevent them from drying out, it has SPF35 so it will protect all of your exterior rubber and trim from fading.

Since it is a brand new car, the LIC would probably be overkill. TID would be ideal for you, you can use it on pretty much everything in the interior: Seats, door panels, dashboard, steering wheel, shifter, and hard plastics.

It sounds like you are already on the right track. Be sure to check out the instructional videos (you probably got a DVD with your order but there are additional ones online) as they help to clarify more. Any other questions, ask away, and be sure to post before and after photos 

[DonJuan692006]

I think Gerry did a wonderfully helpful write-ups (as always) and can only think of one thing to add. Do yourself a favor and ask the dealer to not wash the car. Unfortunately most of the guys cleaning cars at dealerships are way more worried about getting your car done rather than cleaning it properly. They would also most likely dress the trim using a silicone based product (because it tends to provide a high glossy shine (which is a preference thing) and is a PITA to clean off).

 

Do you have a polisher?

[CMDChase]

I agree with Ryan about not having the dealer do ANYTHING to your car. SVRT is excellent for weatherstripping. I use it all the time and it looks and protects great.

[techman]

Thanks guys !

 

Gerry, just to clarify, can I still use the Leather & Interior Conditioner after the Total Interior Detailer ? Or is that also overkill? 

 

Unfortunately, polishing isn't an option for me. I live in a condo so while I can find a place to wash down the car.. finding one with a power outlet seems next to impossible. Even if I was able to find one, I wouldn't really be able to maximize that. 

 

I'll see if I can get the dealer to skip washing the car. I was a little concerned as I might have to wait a few days after taking delivery of the car before I can wash it, so I figured their lousy job would be better than having all that rail dust and crap sitting on the car for a few days.

 

Btw, is the Total Interior Detailer and Leather & Interior Cleaner safe on chrome and metal?

[GerryC]

If you want to use the Leather Conditioner on your leather seats and door panels (where the soft hide is) and save the TID for harder surfaces like plastics, steering wheel, etc, that is another option. This is what I do because my seats and door panels love to drink up the conditioner. I wouldn't use both products on the same surface.

 

The products are safe if you accidentally get some on paint, glass, chrome, metal, etc. because they contain no oil or silicone and should wipe right off with ease.

[Beemer]

Be sure to put some Quick Sealant on your wheels as well.

[DonJuan692006]

The stuff sitting on the surface should be fine unless it rains. Then you'd be looking at extra contaminants sitting in the water while it dries. On the other hand if they wash it and leave swirls/scratches, you'll be sitting there with them staring you in the face until you could polish them out. For a new car you should be able to get by with hand polishing it requiring nothing more than the applicator and some Revive. That would only be necessary should the car have scratches on delivery. 

 

A common misconception (and I've been a victim of this) is thinking that the polishing has to all be done at once. You'll be knocking the prep out when you wash it since you're already claying, etc. All you would really need to do is take it a panel at a time to work around scheduling (like it the car is sitting in the wide open and you have to do parts while the sun isn't burning on that portion). It also takes the stress out of feeling like you're under a time crunch. You would just polish, seal, and optionally glaze/wax one panel at a time. This way you still have the overall protection, but can take a week to get it done if you need to. The only extra step would be to clean the panels before starting if you end up driving it after washing. Five minutes with some WW and you're ready to go.