Newbie to Machine Polishing, Lots of Questions

[scott750]

So I'm relatively new to Adams products. I originally started out getting the Leather Cleaner and Conditioner and my obsession was ignited. I currently have clay bar, Revive, Quick Sealant, Americana, Upholstery Cleaner, Shampoo, SVRT, Leather Conditioner and Cleaner. My 08 Trailblazer SS is always garaged. Only time it is not garaged is at work. I've semi-regularly maintained the paint. I wash probably every other week. I fully hand detail/wax once or twice a year. My paint looks to be in really good shape though.  

 

 

 

But I'm thinking of taking my detailing to the next level: machine polishing. So I've been re-watching all of the machine polishing videos and reading through practically every thread to get as much knowledge as I can. 

 

I do have somewhat of a limited budget. While I would love to get the Flex, I think the Porter Cable 7424XP will be fine for me. I don't have severe swirls like I've seen in others posts. My Silver paint is probably hiding a lot of imperfections I'm sure. For those that have experience on the Trailblazer SS paint, which pads work better on this paint? Foam or Microfiber? Do we have a hard or soft clear coat? I'd rather buy either foam or microfiber, but not both if one works well for my paint. 

 

Now the videos always show new pads being used, 3 dots of polish on the pad, and 1 squirt of detail spray to prime. But they never move to the next panel and show how much to re-apply. Do we have to squirt detail spray for every new section? How much polish is too much? Too little? I thought the liquid polish is what corrects imperfections in the paint and the pad just holds it? But watching the videos and seeing how little is applied to the pads, it almost seems like the foam pad is doing more of the work. 

 

With the 6" pad for the Porter Cable, what technique do I use when going around the small areas, like fenders, grille, around badges? Will I have issues with polish slinging off if the entire pad is not in full contact with the paint? 

 

For those that do the full 2 step correction, what is your technique for maintaining until the next detail job? Do I just wash only? Or wash/clay/Revive/Wax every time?

 

Sorry for all of the questions.

Edited September 16, 2013 by scott750

[Thorsager]

Your trailblazer looks good! I recently started using the Porter Cable and have had great results with it. I have only used the foam pads which did the job. As far as polish goes when I move to the next panel I just repeat the process. A few dots of polish and some detail spray if the pad is drying out. Use a pad brush to clean the pad from time to time. Your vehicle is garaged which helps keeping a car looking good as well as adding longevity to the wax/sealant. After a complete detail I wash with 2 buckets/grit guards and apply  wax/sealant every 4-6 weeks. I clay maybe 1-2 times a year and polish once a year. Claying will remove your wax/sealant as well as contaminates. I know I didn't answer all of your questions. I am finding that it is a work in progress and helps me relax from work.

[CMDChase]

With respect to getting in small areas, etc. use the 4 inch focus pads. They really do a great job. Not only to you risk slinging product all over by using 6 inch pads on tight spaces, you may also damage them.

[GerryC]

You just wash between full details. Claying and polishing will remove your sealant and wax, and a car that stays in a garage will likely only need to be clayed twice a year at most.

 

As you're polishing you will use gradually less product on the pad for each panel, because the pad will hold onto some of the polish. If you add too much polish to the pad you actually diminish the ability of the pad to do its job. If the pad becomes loaded up, you can either brush it out, or (foam only) mist it with DS rather than adding more polish (this will reactivate the dried up polish in the pad and will let you continue for a small section without adding more polish).

[scott750]

Thank you for all of the tips! I has really helped me. I know I will get the technique down once I actually start polishing on my own.

 

How will I know when I've applied too much polish to the pads? Does it look thick on the paint? If I find out I did apply too much on, can I just simply use a bigger section of the panel to use it up?

 

I wish in the videos Dylan or Adam would show a closeup of the panel after running the machine on low speed what the correct amount of polish should look like spread over a section of the panel.

[Team Adam's]

How will I know when I've applied too much polish to the pads? Does it look thick on the paint? If I find out I did apply too much on, can I just simply use a bigger section of the panel to use it up?

 

 

It will become pretty obvious as you work as you'll see symptoms like cast off, dusting, or gumming... also your results will seem to take too long or may be less than perfect. The thing with machine polishing is that we can only do so much learning for you... at some point you have to take pad to paint and test/tune your technique. There are a number of abstract concepts in detailing, especially machine polishing, where you have to experience the process to understand it. 

 

Don't worry.... thousands of people before you have picked up a machine for the first time and gotten the job done. Just be patient, be prepared to spend some time learning the process, and don't expect perfection your very first time. A lot of people get discouraged when they don't get absolute perfection on their first attempt... if it were that easy you wouldn't need guys like me

 

I wish in the videos Dylan or Adam would show a closeup of the panel after running the machine on low speed what the correct amount of polish should look like spread over a section of the panel.

 

There are some things that simply do not transfer well to camera... trying to capture what polish should look like is one of them... just like trying to show the difference between 2 waxes on camera. I've tried to video and photograph it a number of times and just can't seem to capture what I'm seeing in person. One of the best visualizations of how the polishes change I've captured is in the Callaway videos I did.. you can see how the polish looks at the start/middle/end -

 

 

 

You will have a unique challenge on silver as its very hard to make out what the polish is doing. The trade off is that you won't see every tiny imperfection like you would on black so getting 90% perfect might look like 100% on silver. 

Edited September 16, 2013 by Dylan@Adams

[Antv20]

You may want to consider the Flex.  I thought the same thing about the PC when I started polishing.  Now I am looking to buy a Flex and keep the PC for focus pads.  I regret not starting with the Flex.

[scott750]

Dylan, excellent explanation as always! Very much appreciated! Thanks for videos. I hadn't seen those yet. I figured this will be one of those instances where once I'm doing it, it will make more sense. I'm just wanting to get out every question and fear I can beforehand.

 

One more I thought of, after doing my test section, do you do the entire car with the orange pad, then move onto the white? Or should I do a couple sections at a time and see if my technique is working? How long can the Polish residue sit on the panel before it becomes too hard to remove? Guess that's more than one.

 

Antv20,i would love to get a Flex, but it's already hard to justify getting the PC when I may only use it once every other year. If I'm good about maintaining the paint with frequent washes and waxing, will I still need the "cutting" power of the Flex? But I do see your point, as once I get better at machine polishing, I'm going to want the better tools. Might as well buy it the first time and save some $$$.

Edited September 16, 2013 by scott750

[DonJuan692006]

The recommendation would be to do a panel at a time. Get each panel completely done before moving to the next. This will keep you from doing the entire car, finding spots on your second pass with the white pad that need more work, and having to switch back to the orange pad. The residue can be left for a while but keep in my that the more time goes the harder it is to remove.

[Antv20]

Scott750, I know what you mean about cost.  I thought the same thing when I started doing my own vehicles.  But I find myself wanting to do some on the side and would love to cut down on the time it takes, which is why I want a Flex.