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69 Camaro paint question


puttingmyfootdown
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Hey all,

 

Was asked to check out a future clients 1969' camaro with black "laquer" paint job. Still new to paint so not quite sure what I should be doing for this type of paint, what's good what's bad, can i machine polish? Any tips or tricks/info on this type of paint would be greatly appreciated. I can get pictures tomorrow. Thanks!

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Nothing different - polish away!  You will get paint transfer on the pads, so be aware of that - it's perfectly normal.  It scares me a little bit that somebody so inexperienced is working on a classic car like that, but take your time and make sure you're not biting off more than you can chew.

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Thanks for the advice. We haven't really done any detailing on older paint as we've only started up a month or so ago. I can research all about the old school paint, borrow a paint meter from my buddy and all that good stuff, but I also wanted to get knowledge from the guys on here because everyone knows their stuff.

 

If we don't take on and learn how to do these types of cars, how can we get experience? We will be sure to take our time, do test panels and make sure everything is A-OK in the end. If we do take on the car(if no wet sanding needed and all that sorta stuff we can't do yet) I will be sure to post pictures.

 

Enjoy your weekends.

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Alright so I went to go take a look at the car to check out the paint, point out any nicks scratches etc. The guy bought it from someone who built it himself and then apparently painted it himself. I found some flaws and such and then came across some cracking in the paint on the trunk, hood, and a few other places. I'm attaching pictures for everyone and if you could help me determine a) what it means B) can they be corrected without repainting c) if I shouldn't be polishing them with a machine, can I hand polish everything instead? again, still new to single stage paints and especially cautious as I do not have a paint meter to at least figure out how thick the coat is. It looks and feels thicker on the trunk than on the hood. Anyways, see pictures attached and let me know! Thanks for all the help!!

 

IMG-2074 - pic of the painted stripe on middle of the hood

IMG -2083 - painted stripe on front of hood

IMG -2089 - trunk paint 

IMG- 2081 - Wheel

IMG- 2087 - Engine Compartment

post-10680-0-81520800-1381013132_thumb.jpg

post-10680-0-22790600-1381013139_thumb.jpg

post-10680-0-89001800-1381013146_thumb.jpg

post-10680-0-55121700-1381013154_thumb.jpg

post-10680-0-69646100-1381013166_thumb.jpg

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I figured that. I assume if you put a machine to that you'd just rip up the existing paint. Thanks Baron.

 

Anyway, what can I suggest this guy do if he wants it fully corrected? Does he need a full on repaint?   Can I still offer everything but the machine polish? As in, Wash, clay, hand polish, seal, glaze, wax ?? Thanks for the response!

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I figured that. I assume if you put a machine to that you'd just rip up the existing paint. Thanks Baron.

 

Anyway, what can I suggest this guy do if he wants it fully corrected? Does he need a full on repaint?   Can I still offer everything but the machine polish? As in, Wash, clay, hand polish, seal, glaze, wax ?? Thanks for the response!

 

 

Good Morning, 

 

You certainly should not run a machine over any cracked surface.  If this guy is looking for full correction, he needs to start by having the car stripped, prepped the right way, re-painted, then clearcoated.  Something like this is not a job for a Maaco type shop.  A reputable painter with experience in classic metal is what he should be looking for.  About all I would do in this situation is be able to offer a nice, two bucket wash, dress the tires, polish the wheels and stainless trim, and be very careful about how I went about detailing out that engine bay.  Getting water in there without a ton of experience detailing classic car engine bays can be tricky.  If you can, clean that without water utilizing Adam's Waterless Wash and a bunch of towels that you don't care about.

 

As far as protecting it, Adam's Quick Sealant would be your best bet here, as it's optically clear and since it's an aerosol, the chances of you seeing it stick into the cracked paint is very, very, very low.    Waxing or polishing even by hand over these areas with that amount of cracking will yield you a bunch of stuff left in said cracks.  If there are portions of the paint that aren't all gone like what you have posted, I would maybe use some Revive, BG, and then Wax those areas that again, aren't cracked like desert clay.

 

I hope I was able to offer some decent advice and get you into a good direction with this.  Don't forget, saying "no" to a job sometimes is a win also.

 

Mook

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