How I can detect if the paint/clear coat are soft or hard?

[csrt4]

Hi,  I would like to know how I can detect if the paint/clear coat of a car is soft or hard ?

 

Thanks,

 

Steve

[Chris@Adams]

With experience on correcting paint you will be able to know if you are working with a hard or soft clear coat......remember with a soft clear it will scratch easy but it will also correct easily. Just the opposite with a hard clear.Hope this helps you.

[ksell87]

To get all techy you can get a tester similar to what the Baron used in this post http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/25801-2013-nissan-gt-r/?hl=nissan.  Never used one but I'm sure some people can chime in on it.

 

EDIT:  This is only for paint thickness not clear coat thickness.  

Edited February 11, 2014 by ksell87

[LFairbanks]

To get all techy you can get a tester similar to what the Baron used in this post http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/25801-2013-nissan-gt-r/?hl=nissan.  Never used one but I'm sure some people can chime in on it.

 

That just measures paint thickness of each layer.

[THE Mook]

For this answer, I think doing some research particularly on this forum, with all the hundreds of different write ups that are here, just browsing those threads and soaking it all in would help.   What type of car or truck you planning on working on?

[Rich]

 

 

I was just going to be a smart *** and tell you to take a nail and scratch your car. If it goes clear through the clear coat to the paint or bare metal.........SOFT!

 

But I won't tell you that.  I have to behave.

[csrt4]

Hi, I have ask the question, because after searching about a Dodge Challenger on the forum, I have not find the information about my paint.

 

The car that I need to work was a Dodge Challenger RT 2013 and a truck Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD 2008.

 

Thanks,

 

Steve

[Slava]

Like Mook said searching is your best bet. I've never worked on a Challenger paid but have done few Dodge Rams and the paint was pretty hard. A good indicator would also be sticky paint and that's a sign of soft paint or if you're geeting a lot of micro marring.

[ksell87]

That just measures paint thickness of each layer.

I stand corrected.  Sorry for the incorrect info OP.  

[LFairbanks]

To get all techy you can get a tester similar to what the Baron used in this post http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/25801-2013-nissan-gt-r/?hl=nissan.  Never used one but I'm sure some people can chime in on it.

 

EDIT:  This is only for paint thickness not clear coat thickness.  

 

I stand corrected.  Sorry for the incorrect info OP.  

 

They measure clear coat thickness as well.

[mattpiper]

I also own a Dodge Challenger, and I'd say the clear coat is pretty hard. It doesn't readily scratch. I haven't needed to correct my paint in over almost two years after my first correction and proper washing. There are some micro-scratches starting to appear in certain lighting conditions, but that's to be expected even with proper care on a daily driver.

 

You have to be patient with a PC-7424XP to get any results, and there's a few places I never could get completely swirl-free with the Porter Cable. One of these years I'll upgrade to a Flex. 

Hope that helps.

These are photos of about 9-12 months after the paint correction... With proper washing technique, the hard clear is staying pretty swirl/scratch free.





Another reflection shot


 

Edited February 11, 2014 by mattpiper

[mc2hill]

I always liked that car Matt!

 

 

You have to be patient with a PC-7424XP to get any results, and there's a few places I never could get completely swirl-free with the Porter Cable. One of these years I'll upgrade to a Flex. 

 

Step up to the MF Cutting pads.  IMO they add "Flex like" power to the PC, thus saving lots of time.  Most times you can finish with PFP & a white foam pad, and you still are only doing 2 correction steps.

And on some finishes you can just do the last movements of the section pass with very light pressure and not have to use the Finishing polish at all.

 

 

[mc2hill]

Hi,  I would like to know how I can detect if the paint/clear coat of a car is soft or hard ?

 

Thanks,

 

Steve

 

You can not always tell what type of clear the car has so I work a 2ft x 2ft. test section first to get my polishing plan -  polishes + pads.  Sometimes it take 2-3 test sections to get the combo right.

[csrt4]

Here is my Challenger.  It's a 2013 R/T Classic.

 

[Thorsager]

I agree with mattpiper. I did the Adam's two step correction back in July and it still looks like it did the day I did it.

Csrt4 that is a good looking Challenger!

 

This is ours back in July.

 

[Chris@Adams]

Nice looking Challengers........

[dconsmack]

I might as well show my Challenger too. 2014 R/T Classic. 2 weeks old. Plan to do a correction with the Cyclo in the fall; there were a few minor scratches from the factory. Is there a recommendation on weather to use the foam or microfiber pads for a new clear coat?

[The Guz]

If the paint is in good condition with light to moderate defects then I would use foam pads.  If you have heavy defects then I would go microfiber.  I would recommend a test spot with a white pad and finishing polish.  If you need more correction try out the orange pad with correcting polish.  If the clear is hard and you need more correction then I would go to MF pads.

[Ricky Bobby]

If the paint is in good condition with light to moderate defects then I would use foam pads.  If you have heavy defects then I would go microfiber.  I would recommend a test spot with a white pad and finishing polish.  If you need more correction try out the orange pad with correcting polish.  If the clear is hard and you need more correction then I would go to MF pads.

 

Best advice yet.  The softest/stickiest clears I've found so far:

 

-Infiniti

-Toyota/Lexus

-Subaru (ultra sticky paint)

 

I know Adam's is an all Cyclo gang now but when they supported the PC/GG/Meguiars 6" polishers with the 6.5/7" pad system I think they should have also offered a 5" backing plate with 5.5" pads.  Much easier to keep pad rotation and gives more correcting action on the random orbital polishers in my experience, and easier to work a section with a slightly smaller pad (less pad surface/area translates to more correcting power).

 

I think the better question Steve is this:

 

-What machine or machines do you use, what size pads currently and what type of pads do you own, and what is your compound/polish of choice?

[The Guz]

You make a valid point.  I find the PC to work best with 5.5" pads. 

[Team Adam's]

I might as well show my Challenger too. 2014 R/T Classic. 2 weeks old. Plan to do a correction with the Cyclo in the fall; there were a few minor scratches from the factory. Is there a recommendation on weather to use the foam or microfiber pads for a new clear coat?

 

Start with foam pads, as it's likely that you won't need MF pads on a 2 week old car...unless the dealership had their "detail" monkeys get ahold of it during prep.

 

The "newness" of the clear coat doesn't matter, the level of damage and what it takes to correct it is what dictates what pad/polish combo is best for your situation.

[Chris@Adams]

I might add too that if your clear is hard it won't scratch as easy but it is harder to correct....and if it is a soft clear it will scratch easy but it will also correct easy. All of the newer Dodges that I have polished seem to have a med. clear, not to hard and not to soft.

Post up some pic when done.