New Here Need some help.

[grislen]

I'm new here and have been trying to keep scratches out of my car after washing. I have done the polishing and paint sealant and the wax. So after washing it the first time I noticed new scratches.  So I did it all again and got the paint to where I wanted it. So I tried the rinseless wash with the double soft towels and still that leaves scratches in the clear coat. It seems like my paint is just super soft no matter what I try after I wash I get scratchs in the clear coat.  The Car  is a Lexus IS-F, Obsidian in color.  Anyone one have any ideas on how to keep them out I hate the look of them and worked so hard to get the paint just right and still have scratches.

 

Regards,

 

Grislen

[Timmy8784]

Welcome to the forum Grislen!

 

I have had similar problems myself. Rinseless wash is a great product, but still can introduce new scratches. Definitely not as safe as a full 2 bucket wash.

 

I have recently switched to the Gary dean method of rinse less washing (using about 6-8 towels, after the 8 sides have been used you switch to a new towel). I found this to be a much better approach when using the rinse less to reduce new scratches. Also, before I wipe down a panel, I will saturate it with waterless wash to loosen up the particles.

 

Hope this helps. Good luck!

[Kingsford]

The keywords in your post are "AFTER WASHING". 99% of scratches occur during washing. 

 

Try using a little more soap, use 2 washing pads (upper panels and lower panels), wash high first then wash low where the road dirt and grim get. A 2 bucket wash is almost NEEDED when washing these days. Rinseless Wash was has a place but you really need to use a lot of towels when doing it not just 2 or 3 and you really shouldn't have that much dirt on your car. I only use it when it's extremely dusty. I'm too scared to try the Rinseless on a car that has been driving through rain and puddles... Just seems like it would cause scratches no matter what and it's not worth screwing up my paint, especially because I haven't used an Orange Pad in over 2 years on my truck.

 

Towels during drying are also a major factor. If they get even a little bit dirty... Flip the towel. Make sure the towel feels soft. If it doesn't feel soft then it's not soft and rubbing something rigid over paint will scratch it. Use the pooling method to dry (look it up on YouTube), it gets rid of a lot of water if you have a good coat of wax and sealant on it.

 

Use a drying agent like Detail Spray, Waterless Wash or Rinseless Wash (1:16 mixed ratio) to cut down on the surface tension and reduce friction on the towel.

 

Mainly what I'm saying is... It's trial and error and to watch the Adam's Videos (even the old ones) about washing....

Edited May 15, 2014 by Kingsford

[GXPaycheck]

I blow dry my cars. The less stuff that touches the paint the better.

[Marylander]

Jason (Kingsford) is right on. As a general rule, when I dry my car I spritz it with a little detail spray and let the drying towel glide over the surface. I never put any pressure on the towel and I turn it frequently. Often times I use two drying towels per car, too. 

[Team Adam's]

Kingsford nailed it!

 

Every Lexus I've touched has fairly soft clear coat and damages VERY easily, so you'll have a constant fight on your hands trying to minimize the damage you'll be inflicting over time.  It will be especially evident with Obsidian, unfortunately.

 

Ahhhh, the joy of owning a black car.  Join the club. 

[Kingsford]

Ahhhh, the joy of owning a black car.  Join the club. 

 

#worstclubever 

[Ricky Bobby]

Lexus black = the softest black clear coat there is basically.

 

Get yourself 2 of the wool wash mitts from an Adam's distributor, or 2 of the synthetic wool wash pads Adam's sells, if getting the 2 wash pads, rotate to a fresh set every 6 months regardless of how well you clean them after.  The wool wash mitts last longer as they release particles easier with the longer fibers.

 

Make sure you spray the surface with either Waterless or Detail Spray when drying, and I know this goes against Adam's mantra, but  having a wife with a Black Toyota (similar soft clear), my recommendation is to use the plushest, softest drying towel you can find if you aren't using a blower to dry it.

 

In my experience on the black the plush drying towels are much more forgiving than the waffle weave, especially when coupled with the lubricity of Waterless or Detail Spray.

 

 

Hell, Larry from AMMO NYC uses just 1 - 16x24 300-400 gsm towel to dry the cars he works on, he starts with a damp, clean towel, sprays the section he is drying with Hydrate (basically a detail spray/waterless wash product that lubricates the surface), and goes over it with his towel, then wrings it out after each panel.  He dries a whole car this way and although it is not my preferred method, it is quite efficient actually.

 

 

As well, I recommend adopting the 3 bucket method.  3rd bucket with a grit guard of different color, or bucket of different color, designated for dedicated wheel/tire/fender duty only.  If you never use a bucket or tool that has been used on wheels, on paint, you're less likely to introduce scratches by cross contaminating small particles.

 

Either way, if you adopt the techniques I mentioned and still practice perfect technique you will be polishing once or twice a year with a fine or medium cut polish just because the paint gets touched and small imperfections will be introduced, nature of the beast.

[grislen]

All,

 

Thanks for your replies.  I will have to try all the suggestions.