Help with black residue on brand new matte gunmetal wheels.

[Bigtuna00]

I picked up some TSW Nurburgrings from America's tire last Friday. Upon delivery I noticed the wheels had some black smudges on them which I assumed was grease from dirty installer hands and that it would wash right off, so I didn't make an issue out of it.

 

Last night I washed my car (at 8 PM so it was not hot/sunny) and attempted to clean the wheels.  The car wash soap didn't make even a dent in these marks

 

To be clear, to wash the wheels I used Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash with tap water and a kitchen sponge (NOT the scrubbing side, only the foam side).  I didn't use anything else on the wheels yet, wanted to try plain soap first.

 

If I rub vigorously with my fingers I can get the stuff to come out somewhat.

 

I'm kind of baffled at what to try. I've read a lot today about how to clean matte wheels under normal circumstances, but I don't think this is normal and I don't want to ruin my wheels.  I could take them back to America's Tire but the LAST thing I want is for them to experiment trying to clean them.

 

Any advice is appreciated.

 

Thanks!

Edited July 21, 2014 by Bigtuna00

[Kingsford]

Try a degreaser like APC. Are these true matte paint finish or is it anodized aluminum type metal? A better answer will require that information. If it's true matte paint finish there will be very little you can put on it.

[Bigtuna00]

I actually wanted to contact TSW directly and ask them what they recommend but they have no contact information on their site. The point being I actually don't know if it's anodized vs painted or what because the site doesn't say:

 

http://www.tsw.com/alloy_wheels_nurburgring.php

 

They're a really popular wheel, maybe I can find a previous post to answer your question...

[2quikta]

Maybe try claying?

[Bigtuna00]

You know I'm kind of thinking I don't have a choice but to go back to America's tire at least to start with. I don't want to mess with the wheels without them knowing there is a problem first. If I screw something up I'll have to pay to fix it...if I let them screw it up at least it's on them?

 

What a nightmare, I already had to go through ordering two other types of wheels that ended up being out of stock and my budget nearly doubled in order to get these wheels...

 

Thanks all.

[Kingsford]

I've Googled and Googled and can't find anything about the finish...

DO NOT CLAY, until you find out what kind of finish is on it. The list of Don'ts with Matte Finishes out weigh the list of Do's by a long shot.

[Bigtuna00]

Thanks Kingsford, I had a similar experience while Googling.  I found people asking this question, but no definite answers.

 

I just called America's Tire and they asked me to bring the car in so we'll see how that goes. Appreciate your help.

[Kingsford]

The inside of the wheel, is it the same color or texture as the outside?

[Bigtuna00]

As far as I've been able to tell the wheel is uniformly the same.  I pulled one wheel off yesterday, but I wasn't specifically looking to check the finish.  And I remember before they installed them that the *inside* of the wheel (i.e. under the tire) was also gunmetal.

 

Based on how they look after washing, I'm thinking they are anodized. They react a lot like my anodized cookware at home.

 

EDIT: I'll see if America's Tire can give TSW a call and find out for sure.

Edited July 21, 2014 by Bigtuna00

[Kingsford]

They are painted (according to Amazon)...

 

Don't clay them, don't let anything dry on them, use pH neutral soap. 

 

Maybe dilute some GWC 50/50 with some distilled water and try to clean it with a soft brush. 

 

If you search the forum, there is a post from me about how to detail a Matte Finish on a Harley.

Edited July 21, 2014 by Kingsford

[Kingsford]

 

 

Flat matte paint is all together a separate beast within itself when compared to a single or two stage paint job.

Why do I say this? Because their is no margin for error when dealing with flat matte paint. They tend to be temperamental with detailing products, and the use of any waxes, polishes, or polymers will send you to a paint shop right away.

So let me start out with the don'ts:
- don't wash in the sun!!!
- don't clay bar
- don't wax or glaze
- don't polish by hand or machine, no matter what the cut is (this includes revive)
- don't wipe down with any type of quick detailing spray
- don't use cheap micro fiber towels

The reason why you do not want to use any of these steps or products on a flat matte paint, is because it will add a slight luster to the finish. This luster will ruin the flat mattes appearance, and the end results will send you to a paint shop for correction (new paint). Also, cheap micro fiber towels can scratch the finish... And as I have previously stated, you never use hand or machine polishing on flat matte paints. Therefore if you do scratch the finish with a cheap micro fiber towel, you will be in need of a reprint.

Now let me move onto the do's:
- when you wash the flat matte paint, ensure the vehicle is cool to the touch and that you are in a completely shaded area.
- do use waterless wash for wipe downs

The reason why you want to be in a completely shaded area and have the paint cool to the touch, is to prevent any risk of hard water spots. I recommend having your water tested to ensure you do not have hard water before completing a wash. Hard water and flat matte paint does not mix well! Once you have hard water spots on a flat matte paint, the options for correction are extremely limited. Note: make sure you move quick while washing, and dry immediately!

So what do you do if you get hard water spots? Take action quick, use some of Adams glass cleaner with a single soft towel and gently wipe down the effected areas. Refrain from using any type of polishes!

And when it come to scratches on flat matte paint, you are limited to only one option... Repaint.

I personally own a flat black motorcycle, and when I have to clean it... I only use waterless wash. I never let it get to the point where I need to take a hose to it. The reason for this, is because I do not want to risk hard water spots (as I have hard water).

If you have any questions, or if I have missed anything feel free to ask!

Thanks,
Justin

[Bigtuna00]

This is actually the post that got me started researching:

 

http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/22709-advice-cleaning-matte-finish-wheels/?p=360940

 

However I still feel like those instructions may be for a "normal" wheel that just has road grime and brake dust. I feel like I'm starting off with something abnormal.

[Bigtuna00]

First of all thanks again for your help Kingsford.  This is some follow-up for the archives.

 

I went to America's Tire and the tech there used something called Rema Tip Top Cleaner Fluid to do a little test cleaning.  The black stuff seemed to come off with minimal effort.  Also he was using just a regular terry towel to try it. He said this stuff was basically diluted alcohol, though that's not what it smelled like...smelled more like turpentine and even came in a small metal can.

 

I tried an experiment at home with ~50/50 isopropyl alcohol and a higher quality detail towel. It also seems to work well.  I only cleaned about 25% of one wheel, I need to pull them off the car and clean all 4 in better light.

 

We called TSW to find out about the finish. The TSW rep described it as a "wet powder coat". Is this a real thing?  A little Googling makes it seem like it is, though I'm not sure I'd really call it a powder coat.

 

As for wheel care, TSW recommends washing with normal car shampoo and distilled water if necessary.  I'm not entirely sure how I'm supposed to wash the wheels with distilled water given that I need to wash the car with normal water.  I suppose I could wash the wheels after the car and use the distilled water to dilute the hard stuff.

 

Per Chase's recommendation I will probably set myself up with some quick sealant so that the hours I'm about to spend cleaning don't go to waste!

Edited July 22, 2014 by Bigtuna00

[mc2hill]

Wow, thanks for the research Josh!  I am sure this will be very helpful for others with these wheels or finish.

 

As for wheel care, TSW recommends washing with normal car shampoo and distilled water if necessary.  I'm not entirely sure how I'm supposed to wash the wheels with distilled water given that I need to wash the car with normal water.  I suppose I could wash the wheels after the car and use the distilled water to dilute the hard stuff.

 

 

Try pre-mixing the car wash solution and placing it in a spray bottle - adding a good foaming sprayer helps too.  Get a gallon of distilled water and add 1/2 oz of Adam's Car Wash Shampoo, then fill your spray bottle.  

Check out this post - http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/6129-always-ready-car-wash-soap/

 

 

[Bigtuna00]

Just to close the loop, Adam's Green Wheel Cleaner had no problem removing the black marks I mentioned, either with a Wheel Woolie, or a microfiber towel.

 

Tip: I took a garden sprayer like you'd use for weed killer and filled it with distilled water.

 

I removed each wheel and washed with distilled water and Adam's Green Wheel Cleaner.  After drying, I then applied Adam's Quick Sealant to the whole wheel (including tire sidewalls).

 

Now that I have a nice clean base, I hope I don't need to do anything this involved for a while! It took something like 3 hours when all was said and done!  But everything came out really clean.

 

Another tip: I only used 2 gallons of distilled water for all 4 wheels.  Only 1 gallon in the sprayer, and another gallon in a bucket to hold/rinse brushes and such.

 

Thanks all for your help.

[Gen9Rolla]

Glad everything worked out for you. Hopefully others will find the information in here helpful as well