Polish clearbra?

[landshark]

Could clearbra be polished? Would it help? I know I could claybar it, but want to see if polishing will helps for minor swirl marks and/or will it look better? Or I shouldn't bother?

 

Thanks guys.

[Odds and Ends]

I do this on a pretty regular basis but more to clean and brighten as opposed to fixing minor swirls.  The properties of the film are essentially "working against" you when you're polishing and you can't abrade it like you do with regular clear coat and/or paint.  Polishing is effective for cleaning.  I usually skip over it with heavy compounds but will go over it during the final step with whatever polish I'm finishing with.   Obviously, a little extra care should be exercised, lower the speed and stay away from edges, but I've had no issues with running the buffer over the various 3M, Suntek, or XPEL products.

 

- Darryl

[landshark]

Thanks Darryl. That's exactly my thoughts. Not trying to correct, but to clean up & brighten before I coat it.

[Team Adam's]

all the major film manufactures explicitly discourage 2 things:

 

1) Heavy abrasives

2) Heavy solvents

 

So on #1 just stick to fine polishes and pads and you're fine.

On #2 things like Bug & Tar remover are the things to avoid.

[landshark]

Thanks Dylan.  

[GXPaycheck]

XPell has its own polish. Works good!

Edited June 13, 2015 by GXPaycheck

[haugy]

Well perfect timing on this post.  I was just about to ask the same thing.  A buddy brought his Porsche by my shop last weekend to take a look at it.  He had just gotten it, and knew I could make it look good (since all I use is Adams).  It has the 3M clearbra stuff ALL OVER IT.  Hardly a spot that isn't covered.  And the previous owner took it through machine car washes so naturally, it looks terrible. 

 

I told him I didn't think I could do much on correcting the spiderweb-orgy going on all over his car.  And I was going to ask the same question. 

 

It confirmed my thoughts, fine polishes only.  Has anyone tried to remove this stuff off of a car before?  I imagine the tacky residue is a nightmare. 

 

Pics for grins and giggles.

[Team Adam's]

I've only attempted removal once, and never again. It sucks. A steam cleaner to heat up and help is a must.

[landshark]

It's a major PITA to remove the film especially if it's years old. I know most tint shop charge as much as installation, if not more, for removal!

[2quikta]

Do these clear bras suffer any of the downsides compared to a traditional car bra? If removed years later, is there a difference in paint color?

[Odds and Ends]

I remove film quite often to have it replaced with new.  If old, cracked, and brittle, it's not fun.  Very tedious and time consuming.  I also regularly remove vinyl graphics from race cars to get re-done with new sponsors and what not.  The film comes off fine.......it's the glue residue that is a major pain.  Heat helps a little but isn't 100% helpful AND you need to be super careful about getting the surface too hot to melt stuff and even worse, bubble the paint.  

 

To answer the other question in this thread, yes, if the clear film has been on for a long time, it is possible to experience some difference in color.  The non-filmed paint will be faded and the paint under the film will be more vibrant.  That is a testament to the UV protection these films offer.

 

- Darryl

[Fierce5]

I remove film quite often to have it replaced with new. If old, cracked, and brittle, it's not fun. Very tedious and time consuming. I also regularly remove vinyl graphics from race cars to get re-done with new sponsors and what not. The film comes off fine.......it's the glue residue that is a major pain. Heat helps a little but isn't 100% helpful AND you need to be super careful about getting the surface too hot to melt stuff and even worse, bubble the paint.

 

To answer the other question in this thread, yes, if the clear film has been on for a long time, it is possible to experience some difference in color. The non-filmed paint will be faded and the paint under the film will be more vibrant. That is a testament to the UV protection these films offer.

 

- Darryl

Does this hold even if you have been waxing and sealing the non covered paint regularly?

[Odds and Ends]

Probably not as drastic but the simple fact of age/time will affect the true color of the paint.  That's why body shops have to tint the paint and then blend and feather when doing repairs.  If you panel paint, edge to edge, you'll see a color difference.  Waxing and sealing on a regular basis will help.....that's why we're all on this forum.....to learn how to take care of our paint, but unless you put your brand new car indoors in a bubble, 20 years later, the paint isn't going to be the same color.

 

- Darryl

[Odds and Ends]

Here is a recent example that goes with this thread.  Lots of APC goes into track car clean up......inside and out!  My 911 guys like the fact that I am able to clean the inside of the rear glass.  You cannot get in the back of the car due to the full cage and fixed seats so I use a "glass towel on a pole" method to wipe off as much film and grime as possible.    As for the exterior, the car gets a light polish to brighten everything up and remove rubber marks and scuffs.  This particular car has clear film applied over quite a few of the graphics in strategic places.