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Do you really need to strip wash & clay bar if you're going to paint correct?


Dr.Ron
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If you're going to paint correct with an abrasive cutting compound that removes an extremely thin layer of the clear coat, then doesn't that product remove contaminants or old products on it's own?

 

Sorry if this seems like a dumb question...Just thinking out loud here.

 

Ron

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There are no dumb questions, basically you want the cleanest surface you can have to start your correcting. Any leftover contaminates can put scratches in as you are working to remove them.

 

 

guess I need to type faster...

Edited by PacificNWBuckeye
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Ok, makes sense I suppose.

 

I just got a black VIper. It has no swirls except for maybe 2 places. Should I just clay those 2 places and correct them, then just polish & Seal the entire car?

 

Thanks!

 

 

Ron

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There are no dumb or stupid questions here. Ask so that you can learn not just to do or not to do it but why and maybe learn some more from the reasons. 

 

As stated you want the cleanest surface possible, remember start with the least aggressive first, which would be a wash, then a clay. Stop and check if you do not have a ton of swirls and scratches you might be surprised how well the finish can look. 

 

If you are going to correct you want to clay first (as stated above) so that you can remove contaminates and not pass them around the car possibly causing more damage than was there. Think of how easy a grain of sand could get into a pad and then with each movement it would damage the surface. 

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No need to reiterate the answer here...

 

When you do clay the car, you will be amazed at how much crap the clay will pick up on what may have been a pretty smooth feeling car wih your bare hand.

 

Every car should be clayed once a year no matter what, baggie test or not IMHO

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Do the 2-step paint correction on the entire car, even if you don't see swirls.

 

You will be surprised how much additional gloss you get from polishing.  This is because the polishing will remove oxidation and imperfections that are not really visible to the eye, but do affect how much gloss and depth you will see in the paint.

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Clay yes and a strip wash is optional.  If the protection has been on for a few months, more than likely it has already started to break down.  Polishing won't have an issue removing it from the paint.

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Do the 2-step paint correction on the entire car, even if you don't see swirls.

 

You will be surprised how much additional gloss you get from polishing. This is because the polishing will remove oxidation and imperfections that are not really visible to the eye, but do affect how much gloss and depth you will see in the paint.

I agree with wolf. For me 2 steps on initial correction is a must. Subsequent yearly or bi-yearly maintenance polishing sessions can be done with one step and one pass most of the time with Finishing Polish assuming your washing and drying techniques are solid, as we know most marring is induced in those 2 processes.

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So I started the process. Is it normal to have a few spots after cutting that are slightly dull or have a slight haze??

I figure the polish will re-shine these 2 areas?

 

Ron

After the paint correcting polish, yes it is normal which is why there is a 2nd step: paint finishing polish to clean it all up

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After the paint correcting polish, yes it is normal which is why there is a 2nd step: paint finishing polish to clean it all up

Yes, I just wanted to make sure I didn't screw anything up. LOL

I had a few light scratches that I had to go over several times to get them out....Have some dusting as well...Too muchproduct? Working it too long? Pad too dry?

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Yeah dusting is usually too much product. I use less than what Adam uses in the video and I still get dusting. How I go around that is after 2 applications of product, I'll do one without adding polish to the pad, just spray it TWICE with detail spray. As you work your way around the car, you may need to do more often.

 

Why I say twice? Don't know why but 1 spray of DS helps bring the polish back up but 2 sprays have tons of product come out of the pad.

 

I may even do a full door or 2 just with DS if enough product comes out of the pad.

 

If that makes sense..

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Yeah dusting is usually too much product. I use less than what Adam uses in the video and I still get dusting. How I go around that is after 2 applications of product, I'll do one without adding polish to the pad, just spray it TWICE with detail spray. As you work your way around the car, you may need to do more often.

 

Why I say twice? Don't know why but 1 spray of DS helps bring the polish back up but 2 sprays have tons of product come out of the pad.

 

I may even do a full door or 2 just with DS if enough product comes out of the pad.

 

If that makes sense..

It does make sense & I was doing the same with the detail spray.

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Update:
The paint is in pretty good shape. I didn't need M105. After claying the rest of the car, I did M205 followed by finishing with Swirl remover 2.0. Zero dust and the car looks amazing!!!
The couple of hazy spots are gone and all of the fine scratches. I had to do a couple of passes on a few of them, but they're gone.
I'm going to do a sealant tomorrow.

Ron

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Adam's Correcting Polish is our swirl and haze remover, color-coded to our orange foam and orange microfiber cutting pad, and Adam's Finishing Polish is the second step of the 2 step polishing system, color-coded to our white foam pad :)

 

http://adamspolishes.com/shop/exterior/polishing/paint-correcting-paint-finishing-polish-combo.html

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