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Adam's Ceramic Trim Coating | Darkens and Protects Exterior Trim

 

 
Adam's Trim Coating is a durable ceramic barrier that darkens and keeps trim looking new for a minimum of one year. Use it on plastic side mirrors, wiper cowls, bumper inserts, and even rubber trim around windows, leaving a nice satin, semi-gloss appearance. Once cured, the coating provides excellent hydrophobic properties that bead and repel water.
 

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FAQ's
 
Q:  How is this product used?
A:  Like all ceramic coatings, preparation and application technique are very important. Read and follow the printed instructions, and watch the product video, prior to trying this product for the first time. Since this coating cures when exposed to air, the initial application needs to be correct.
 
Q:  How is Trim Coating different than VRT?

A:  The Trim Coating is a product that contains ceramics. It soaks into and bonds with the plastic trim, creating a very durable layer of protection that can last up to one year, while also darkening faded trim. VRT is a water-based trim dressing that temporarily improves the appearance of trim while providing some temporary protection. Since VRT is water-based, subsequent washing or rain will remove the dressing, requiring frequent re-application.

 

Q:  Do I really need to do both cleaning steps?
A:  YES! The visible results and longevity of the protection from the coating require that the trim be cleaned thoroughly, first with Tire & Rubber Cleaner, and then with the Coating Prep solution. Even trim on brand new vehicles needs to be clean thoroughly, since new plastics off-gas after manufacturing and leave a residue that would impede the trim coating.

 

Q:  If the trim is really faded and needs two coats, do I wait for the first coat to cure?

A:  No, a second coat can be applied after letting the first coat dry for an hour. However, you are not likely to need a second coat, as even really faded trim that was tested looked great with just one coat.  Unlike sealants and waxes, there is no benefit to layering additional coats of Trim Coating. 

 

Q:  What happens if I get this on the paint next to the trim?

A:  Wipe any coating off of the paint with the plush towel within 30 seconds, so that it does not cure. If the coating is too sticky or smears when wiping off the paint, use a some Brilliant Glaze on the towel to help remove the product from the paint.

 

Q:  Why is the cure time so long?

A:  The time that it takes for the coating to cure depends on ambient conditions (temperature, humidity, air flow, etc.). The recommended time frame of 24-48 hours would cover the majority of the typical application conditions. However, certainly use common sense (do not apply outside during winter temps). Also be aware that simply having the coating dry to the touch does not mean it is cured. While it might feel dry in 20-30 minutes, the coating needs 24-48 hours to fully cure before getting damp/wet or getting exposed to residue from polishes or sealants that might be used on the paint.
 
Q:  Is this product only for faded trim?
A:  Nope. While this coating will darken faded trim, its a very durable layer of protection that will keep your trim from becoming faded in the first place. It is great for new trim, as it seals up the surface which makes cleaning easier, and it beads water! On brand new vehicles, make sure to clean the trim thoroughly, since new plastics off-gas after manufacturing and leave a residue that would impede the trim coating.
 
Q:  Can you still use VRT over the Trim Coating?
A:   VRT would not be applied over trim that is coated. Since the coating effectively seals the trim, then the VRT would not soak in, and you would likely see the VRT run off the trim and onto the paint when washed or rained on. Plus, the coating would provide all the protection needed.
 
Q:  Can H2O Guard & Gloss be layered over the Trim Coating?
A:   Layering additional protection is not needed. The durability of the coating provides all the protection. It will not be an issue when you apply H2O Guard & Gloss to your paint and it also ends up on the coated trim.
 
Q:  Can the applicator or towel be cleaned and reused?
A:  No. The product cures hard and cannot be cleaned from the applicator or towel, so careful application is important. While additional applicators will be available for purchase, keep in mind that each applicator can be used for more than one application/vehicle, since each has 6 total sides. Just clean and prep all the trim first, then apply the coating to all the trim at one time, so the coating does not cure in the applicator while you are cleaning the next area of trim. The plush towel that is used to wipe any coating of adjacent painted areas cannot be cleaned, so it should be discarded.

 

Q: Can additional applicators be purchased?  
A:  Yes. Replacement ceramic coating applicators can be purchased here: http://adamspolishes.com/adam-s-blue-ceramic-trim-applicator.html 

Q: Why is this product so expensive?  
A:  Ceramic coatings are expensive, and our bottle is 50ml, which will provide enough product for multiple applications/vehicles, provide it is stored and maintained properly. Always replace the cap immediately after dispensing the product onto the applicator each time, and store the product in a cool, dark place.
 
Q:  Why is it only offered in a kit?
A:  Since the preparation/cleaning and application methods and techniques are important and unique for this product, we wanted the kit to have all the items needed to provide a good result. There was concern that initially selling individual bottles of coating and prep solution might result in customers that might not have the other required products, or that their existing towels might have other residues that could impede the cleaning/prep and the application of the coating. In addition, the plush towel that is used for wiping any product off of the paint will need to be discarded, since the coating will cure and cannot be cleaned out of the towel.

 

Q:  Can Trim Coating be used on headlights?

A:   No, this specific type of coating is not designed for application on headlights.

 

Q:  Does it make plastic surfaces like running boards slippery?

A:  No. The Trim Coating can be applied to plastic running board and tailgate step surfaces without leaving a slippery surface. In fact, testing on some of these surfaces actually showed that the surface had a little better grip than prior to coating.

 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xfcCHKSx7yY

 

IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS: CLEAN FIRST!

 

It is imperative to have a COMPLETELY clean and de-oxidized surface before applying Adam’s Trim Coating. For the coating to adhere to the surface, work properly, and have a uniform appearance, cleaning is a must. Applying to a dirty surface can cause some areas to look dull or discolored compared to other areas. CLEAN FIRST!

 

1. Move vehicle indoors. Vehicle must remain dry for 24 hours after applying Adam’s Trim Coating for proper curing time.

 

2. Clean all trim to be coated by spraying Adam’s Tire & Rubber Cleaner directly into an Edgeless Utility Towel or onto the plastic trim surface, then scrub the area with moderate pressure to remove all dirt and oxidation. 

 

3. Next, continue the cleaning process by using Adam’s Coating Prep to leave the trim surface bare and free of any residue.  

 

4. Spray Adam’s Coating Prep directly into a second, clean Edgeless Utility Towel or onto the plastic trim surface, then wipe the entire area to remove any excess residue from the Tire & Rubber Cleaner used in Step 2.

 

5. Put on the set of supplied rubber gloves to avoid any coating contact with your skin – Adam’s Trim Coating will make the applicator sticky. 

 

6. Pour several drops of Trim Coating onto the supplied microfiber applicator. Immediately secure the cap back onto the bottle to avoid premature curing of the product inside of the bottle.

 

7. Wipe the applicator onto one trim area at a time, using even pressure across the surface. Ensure that the Trim Coating has a uniform appearance. You may need to wipe back and forth several times to level the coating properly for an even, semi-gloss shine.

 

8. For any excess Trim Coating accidentally applied onto painted surfaces, use a Single Soft Microfiber Towel to quickly wipe away any residue – Do not allow Trim Coating to dry on any painted surfaces! Do not apply any other products to trim areas and do not exposure the vehicle to any moisture for 24 hours.

 

9. Repeat for remaining trim areas. Discard the microfiber applicator afterward. It is a single-use item that will harden as it dries when used with Adam’s Trim Coating. If a Single Soft Microfiber Towel was used to wipe away excess coating from paint, it may need to be discarded as well.

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Thanks Dan, so on the trim piece I already tried and didn't work so well, after scrubbing with Tire and rubber cleaner would I be safe to apply another coat of trim coating or would it just make matters worse? Also, you're saying when cleaning the trim, keep scrubbing away until the towel isn't pulling up pure black?

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Dan was right, all in the prep work. Decided to try passenger rubber window trim. Scrubbed it about 5 or 6 times until the towel was pulling up very little black residue. Followed by a few scrubs with the prep until the towel was coming up clean and the coating applied much better and not nearly as streaky. Rubber seemed to soak it up better. Trim piece still looks a bit streaky/blotchy, but much better than before, maybe it will level out when fully cured? Tried a small plastic fender lip on the wife's jeep cherokee and it worked fantastic there. Still unsure if I like the result on rubber though

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Following this closely as I asked a similar question about rubber trim in the FAQ thread yesterday. I think I will do a small test area after a thorough prep to see how it looks before committing to the entire trim. My wife's SQ5 has a lot of rubber trim around the windows which I was hoping to use this on but I want to be sure I know what I am doing :) 

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It works GREAT on smooth plastic. The trim around the windows on my Camaro is smooth and it looks fantastic.

 

However - this is not "polished" plastic.  I have some of that on my F150 pickup between the windows. I will treat that with paint sealant just like the rest of the polished surfaces.

 

I did not put the trim sealant on the soft, rubber door/window seals.  I don't believe that is what this product is for.  I will continue to clean those soft parts with Tire and Rubber Cleaner and treat them with sVRT.

 

Thanks man! It seems it can be used on the rubber sealant but the prep is critical to success. I think it's a "proceed with caution" situation. Either commit to getting it perfect or don't do it at all.  

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I'm just waiting for a couple solid write up reviews before I buy the kit. All I have currently is one vehicle, and it has limited trim. The only trim would be the plastic on the backs of the mirrors, the B pillars, my roof antenna, and the cowl. Everything else is painted. So i'd need a really good reason to pull the trigger on an expensive kit like this for a one time, limited use. I'll stick with using R&TC and VRT on the window trim. 

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Hi Bob, cold temperatures could affect impact the application and curing process, as cold temperatures usually involve moisture on the vehicle surface too. It's very important to apply the Trim Coating indoors in a garage and allow it to cure there for at least 24 hours if possible for best application.

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Thanks Dan, so on the trim piece I already tried and didn't work so well, after scrubbing with Tire and rubber cleaner would I be safe to apply another coat of trim coating or would it just make matters worse? Also, you're saying when cleaning the trim, keep scrubbing away until the towel isn't pulling up pure black?

Yes, keep scrubbing until there is no more black coming from the rubber. Not sure what a second coat over where you've already gotten an issue would be, scrub it as best you can before trying again though. Only way to know?-Try it and see.

Here's a shot of some rubber I used the Trim Coating on. The piece at the bottom of the A-pillar is rubber, as is the piece at the bottom corner of the windshield. There was no more black coming off the towel when cleaning or using the Prep solution:

IMG_0808resize_zps8ivfi6ls.jpg

 

I'm just waiting for a couple solid write up reviews before I buy the kit. All I have currently is one vehicle, and it has limited trim. The only trim would be the plastic on the backs of the mirrors, the B pillars, my roof antenna, and the cowl. Everything else is painted. So i'd need a really good reason to pull the trigger on an expensive kit like this for a one time, limited use. I'll stick with using R&TC and VRT on the window trim. 

Brought these mirrors, that I'd thought were okay compared to the rest of the plastic on the car, to this!

IMG_0809resize_zpsiutfonfx.jpg

Sorry, never thought to take before's of the mirrors. You'll have to trust me.

 

Ok thanks dan I just have to take out the vette and put my dd in the garage I only have a one car garage

Thanks for the info Bob

My GTO's sitting out on the driveway right now while the dd is all protected in the garage. I hope a bird doesn't crap on it!

 

What about using it on spray on bed liner? My bed caps have rhino lining on them, would I be able to coat them?

Rough Textured? It'll use a boat load of the product, probably tear up your applicator, and if textured; be really hard to lay down an even, level coat.

Edited by BRZN
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It's relatively smooth compared to most brands. I'll try to get a close up pic.

3312BFCB-49A7-4B64-89E7-2E3DCDFA60A9.jpg

 

It does look pretty porous. I would only be doing the bed caps and maybe right below the rear window.

Edited by chops1sc
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I will say, this is a pretty tough coating. After doing the rubber trim around my windows and not liking the result after, tried scrubbing next day with Tire and rubber cleaner and the towel does not pull any black residue from the trim period. Before coating, just a light wipe with trc would pull up pure black. Really liking this stuff now, thought it looked terrible at first attempt, but after curing for a day or so on my rubber trim it looks much better and a nice, uniform deep black

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Yes, Post #38

 

The cowl's simply another piece of trim on the vehicle that could use some attention. It turned out pretty nice on this 11 year old 100,000 mile plus car that sits outside 24/7/365. The wiper arm's? Either lift them, tape them off, or come at the trim from both the front with the hood open and the glass side with the hood down.

The stains on the plastic didn't come off by cleaning or prepping. The coating made the stains darker, but didn't hide them completely. No before pics, just after's. The cowl was gray and chalky.

IMG_0812resize_zpsai7b6dso.jpg

 

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IMG_0814resize_zps5fjgqw64.jpg

 

IMG_0815resize_zpsozwaqpjp.jpg

 

IMG_0816resize_zpspoihcqh1.jpg

Edited by BRZN
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This ceramic trim coating made a huge streaky mess out of my rear bumper cover on my 11 mustang.  Is there anyway to get it off, or am I stuck with it looking like this for a year?  It worked good on the side trim pieces but the rear looks horrible.  I'm not sure why.  I used the same technique and cleaned it well with both rubber tire cleaner and the trim prep cleaner.  

 

Edit: attached some pics...  2 are what I was referring to.  1st pic is bottom side piece that I tested on with half of it coated and half not.  Last is the side rear which turned out good as well.   I'm at a loss why the rear turned out so messed up.

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Edited by fiveoh
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Hi Ryan, I do apologize about the issues with your rear bumper insert. With our Trim Coating, preparation is 95% of the job, so once you feel you've thoroughly cleaned the plastic, clean it more, especially on an area such as the rear bumper that will have exhaust residue built up, and possibly previous layers of VRT or In & Out Spray.

 

How long did the trim coating cure already? If it is still within the first 12 or 24 hours of application, you may need to reapply a second layer to help even out the high and low spots. From the picture it looks like either the plastic was not fully cleaned or that there was uneven application of the coating, but pictures can be difficult to determine the real problem.

 

Did you apply the Trim Coating indoors and at what temperature? Did you let it cure for at least 24 hours indoors?

 

Unfortunately there is no real way to remove the coating, as it is a semi-permanent layer that bonds with the textured plastic surface, which is why we put several warnings in the description and instructions to be extremely thorough in the cleaning process.

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It was in the garage at about 55-60. I'll try and get another coat on tonight to see if that helps. I prepped it the same as the other pieces that came our great which is why I was so surprised. Thanks for the reply.

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Eric I thought about this a little bit after posting. I doubt there is any reason to use boost with the ceramic trim coating. I think the primary reason they use it on paint and wheels is to smooth out the surface. I could be wrong, but I am thinking if they wanted us to use it they would include it in the kit. Not saying we couldn't use it, but probably not much benefit for trim. Like you I'll wait for the Adams team to speak on it.

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I am looking for a pro-tip here. If I wanted to use the trim coating on grill like this, what would you recommend? I still have a couple cans of quick sealant that I normally use but thinking of moving on to the coating. Not my picture but you get the idea. Thanks. 

2009-pontiac-g8-gxp-sedan-grille.png

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