That's Swirl and Haze Remover for those who get lost in the acronyms!
One thing that I know about wet sanding and polishing is that you actually must do damage to the finish in order to undo damage already in the finish. Now read that 3 times and let it soak in. I'm about to lay some revelation on ya'.
Here's the deal. When wet sanding, you must shave layers of clear coat off the car in order to get down to the real nasty scratches. Swirls usually don't go as deep as a nasty scratch so they usually don't require wet sanding. Another thing about wet sanding is that you must undo the damage that you have done with one grit of sandpaper, using a lesser grit. This same process can be used when removing swirls and scratches with a compound such as Adam's Swirl and Haze Remover (SHR).
Looks like it may need to be repainted, right?
You'd be wrong!
So what's the trick? The trick is maximizing the potential of the Adams products that you already have. You know that you are to use the SHR along with the Second Generation Swirl Killer Pad. However, this should only be used in conditions where the swirls and scratches are really bad. Bad as in the first time you ever began to detail your car's paint correctly. What if you have acquired a couple of light swirls after getting your paint in immaculate condition? This is a prime opportunity to use a little non-conventional thinking.
Using SHR on a Second Generation Polishing Pad reduces the some of the effectiveness of SHR. The term I use is "gritnicity" (pronounced "grit nis' sit tee"... don't bother looking it up, it's one of my Junkman terms ). The gritnicity of SHR changes depending on which pad you use it on because the pad is part of the cutting (or cleaning) process. Since the gritnicity of SHR always remains the same, you change the gritnicity by using it on a different pad. I do this when I want to take care of a light scratch or swirls. There is no need to go at a light amount of damage using the brute force of a dry orange pad and some SHR (or the BFG as you gamers call it ). You can dilute the gritnicity of SHR even more by using it on the Second Generation Wax Pad. This would be ideal for situation where the only damage is streaks due to wiping the car down while dusty and causing those hairline streaks. Again, there's no need to break out the gorilla when a poodle will do.
So what do we have here? We have just created a way to adjust the effectiveness of SHR times 3. But you don't have to stop there. The orange pad when used dry (and by dry I mean using it with only the SHR on it and no detail spray) has some serious cutting power. If you dampen the pad by using some Adam's Detail Spray, you are at that point changing the characteristics of the SHR itself by making it more liquid. The more detail spray, the more liquid SHR becomes. Now you have the cutting power that is somewhere between a dry orange pad and a dry white pad. This same technique can be used on the white and black pads too. All of a sudden you now have in your arsenal, 6 different levels of SHR (2 variations per pad). This ability to step down the damage that is done with the previous pad/compound combination is the way I undo the damage that you saw in the pictures above.
One rule that I follow is not to mix products on the same pad. In some instances, this is okay to do with Adam's products. However as a rule of thumb, I like having a different pad for all my products. If I use SHR on a black pad, I'm not going to use that pad to apply wax unless I wash it out really good. Usually, that pad will only be used for SHR applications and I'll get different black pad for wax.
With practice, you will be able to tell not only which pad to use the SHR on, but also how wet if necessary you want that pad. This takes a little practice so gather up all you buddy's cars and go at it. Sometimes, I might want to start with a wet white pad, instead of going with a dry white pad. It totally depends on the damage that I am looking at. Again, this takes practice in order to look at damage and then know where to start. I have a bevy of non-car washing friends so a practice palette is easy for me to find. Who knows, you may have a candidate sitting in your very own garage.
Question
Junkman2008
That's Swirl and Haze Remover for those who get lost in the acronyms!
One thing that I know about wet sanding and polishing is that you actually must do damage to the finish in order to undo damage already in the finish. Now read that 3 times and let it soak in. I'm about to lay some revelation on ya'.
Here's the deal. When wet sanding, you must shave layers of clear coat off the car in order to get down to the real nasty scratches. Swirls usually don't go as deep as a nasty scratch so they usually don't require wet sanding. Another thing about wet sanding is that you must undo the damage that you have done with one grit of sandpaper, using a lesser grit. This same process can be used when removing swirls and scratches with a compound such as Adam's Swirl and Haze Remover (SHR).
Looks like it may need to be repainted, right?
You'd be wrong!
So what's the trick? The trick is maximizing the potential of the Adams products that you already have. You know that you are to use the SHR along with the Second Generation Swirl Killer Pad. However, this should only be used in conditions where the swirls and scratches are really bad. Bad as in the first time you ever began to detail your car's paint correctly. What if you have acquired a couple of light swirls after getting your paint in immaculate condition? This is a prime opportunity to use a little non-conventional thinking.
Using SHR on a Second Generation Polishing Pad reduces the some of the effectiveness of SHR. The term I use is "gritnicity" (pronounced "grit nis' sit tee"... don't bother looking it up, it's one of my Junkman terms
). The gritnicity of SHR changes depending on which pad you use it on because the pad is part of the cutting (or cleaning) process. Since the gritnicity of SHR always remains the same, you change the gritnicity by using it on a different pad. I do this when I want to take care of a light scratch or swirls. There is no need to go at a light amount of damage using the brute force of a dry orange pad and some SHR (or the BFG as you gamers call it 
). You can dilute the gritnicity of SHR even more by using it on the Second Generation Wax Pad. This would be ideal for situation where the only damage is streaks due to wiping the car down while dusty and causing those hairline streaks. Again, there's no need to break out the gorilla when a poodle will do.
So what do we have here? We have just created a way to adjust the effectiveness of SHR times 3. But you don't have to stop there. The orange pad when used dry (and by dry I mean using it with only the SHR on it and no detail spray) has some serious cutting power. If you dampen the pad by using some Adam's Detail Spray, you are at that point changing the characteristics of the SHR itself by making it more liquid. The more detail spray, the more liquid SHR becomes. Now you have the cutting power that is somewhere between a dry orange pad and a dry white pad. This same technique can be used on the white and black pads too. All of a sudden you now have in your arsenal, 6 different levels of SHR (2 variations per pad). This ability to step down the damage that is done with the previous pad/compound combination is the way I undo the damage that you saw in the pictures above.
One rule that I follow is not to mix products on the same pad. In some instances, this is okay to do with Adam's products. However as a rule of thumb, I like having a different pad for all my products. If I use SHR on a black pad, I'm not going to use that pad to apply wax unless I wash it out really good. Usually, that pad will only be used for SHR applications and I'll get different black pad for wax.
With practice, you will be able to tell not only which pad to use the SHR on, but also how wet if necessary you want that pad. This takes a little practice so gather up all you buddy's cars and go at it. Sometimes, I might want to start with a wet white pad, instead of going with a dry white pad. It totally depends on the damage that I am looking at. Again, this takes practice in order to look at damage and then know where to start. I have a bevy of non-car washing friends so a practice palette is easy for me to find. Who knows, you may have a candidate sitting in your very own garage.
The Junkman
Edited by Junkman2008Top Posters For This Question
20
4
4
3
Popular Days
Apr 27
12
Mar 9
11
Mar 15
10
Feb 19
6
Top Posters For This Question
Junkman2008 20 posts
Bill-V8V 4 posts
Superdutytd 4 posts
Adam 3 posts
Popular Days
Apr 27 2010
12 posts
Mar 9 2009
11 posts
Mar 15 2009
10 posts
Feb 19 2010
6 posts
54 answers to this question
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now