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Newbie to paint correction


Pwncess

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Hi all, 

 

I'm looking to finally order a swirl killer and get to work on correcting my cars! I've never done paint correction before - but have watched tons of Adams videos! I have a few Q's before finalizing my order. 

 

First car: e92 BMW coupe - space grey

 

There are a real good amount of swirls in the paint. I don't have to look very hard in the light to see them all over the hood. The car was also swiped/scratched in a parking garage (so nice of people to hit and run!) and got "buffed" at my local body shop. However, I still see some remnants of the damage left over.

 

Which polishes and pads would be recommended on this? 2 step or 3 step? Is finishing polish always necessary? 

 

 

Second car: '14 STi hatch - satin white pearl

 

Overall the paint on this car looks good. I notice a few light swirls on the hood but nothing major. The only real imperfection is about an 8" x 2" strip across the hood that looks like a bunch of concentrated swirls. About 3 weeks or so ago I clayed, hand polished, paint sealed and waxed this car - with all Adams products, of course. I'm really only looking to correct the hood area for now. 

 

What would you suggest to strip/prime just the hood before a correcting session? Again, which polish/pad would be recommended? I'm concerned with the softer Subaru paint alongside it being pearl white. 

 

 

And for both cars: how many passes are done at each step? Pressure? Do you wipe off each polish residue before moving to the next step? I don't want to cut any corners, gotta do it right the first time - would appreciate any help. Thanks!

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You ask a lot of questions. All with different answers. Without more information, it's speculation as to the answers. But here we go...

 

Car 1:

 

Depending on the depth of the swirls and the thickness of the paint, you could start with heavy correcting compound and the proper foam or microfiber pads (microfiber offering the most cutting power). If they're not thay bad, start with correcting polish and an orange foam or microfiber pad.

 

If you start with heavy compound, you can move to correcting polish. If it finishes down well enough for you to be satisfied, you're done. If not, you'd want a finishing polish on it. The darker colors really benefit from that final polish.

 

Car 2:

 

If the swirls are light and in a white car, you may get away with just using the correcting polish. If they're really faint, you may even get away with finishing. Work a test spot and see what offers the results you're looking for. Use different lighting to see what you really are working with. Since the paint is soft, it'll correct quicker and easier using a less aggressive polish. You'll want to strip the wax and sealant off of the area you're working with to start though.

 

To strip, you can use strip wash on it. That will remove any wax and sealant. An isopropyl alcohol wipe may do the same. But I'd start with strip wash.

 

Question 3:

 

How many passes? There is no universal answer. The answer is as many as it takes. What may take two or three passes with one polish may be done with one that's more aggressive. Right tool for the problem and all that. Work a test area to see what process you need. Then attack the car. Least aggressive you can get away with is desirable.

 

For pressure, you don't need a lot. A gentle downward pressure will keep the polisher from wandering on you. Ideally you want the pad and polish to do the work. By using light pressure you allow the pads to continue rotating and working.

 

There is no need to wipe residue until you're ready to seal the paint again. You may want to wipe to check your work though and make sure you're getting the results you're after. Pads getting loaded and wearing can cause things to not correct as quickly as you're working. Be aware.

 

Be patient and take your time.

 

Ask any other questions you might think of.

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For a short answer I would do test sections to see what comes out best but it sounds like you should use the microfiber pad with heavy compound, skip the blue foam pad it is unnecessary, then follow with correcting polish, you do not need to wipe off polish in between steps, if you want the car to really pop, then finish with finishing polish and the white pad, but I don't know if this would be worth it on your daily driver.

 

You don't have to wipe off polish between steps, unless you want too, but make sure you wipe it off before you seal/wax/coating. You NEED to seal/wax/coating after you polish. And you apply about 3-5 pounds of pressure. Again do test sections to see how many passes you need to do. I usually start at speed 4 and go to speed 6, but make sure you spread the polish before you turn the machine on so it doesn't sling.

 

For the next car, I would use heavy compound and microfiber pad on the bad area and correcting polish with orange pad on the rest. Heavy correcting compound is a compound so if you use it you do need to follow with the correcting polish and the orange pad. Once you are done polishing, wipe off polish and apply a sealant/coating/wax.

 

Finishing polish is great for black cars or show cars, it is not necessary, but it adds tons of depth and clarity.

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