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Detail spray drying aid


01redcrew

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For people that use adams polish detail spray or something similar. How far on a truck can you get before the truck gets dry. Just curious if you keep spraying with water to keep it wet or just keep spraying detail spray with the wet mircofiber and wipe with another. Reason I ask is I have a f250 crew cab and I think when it gets warmer out the truck is going to dry faster. I know to pull it in the garage or do the summer side first. Just asking for opinions thank you

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I live in Florida so I understand your issue. Personally, as soon as I'm done with a wash, I'll dry the side that's in the sun first. I do this by spraying detail spray one panel at a time, and wiping it dry. If by chance it does dry before I can get to it, I'll do another quick spray with the hose. But I have hard water, so if I don't spray down on a wet car, then water drops and deposits dry on and you don't want to try to scrub those off with just a towel. If I can manage to do the side in the sun first, then usually the side in the shade is still wet enough to dry normally.

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Like Jason, I will usually do 1-2 panels at a time, similar to how I use H2O Guard & Gloss.

 

If the Detail Spray begins to dry on a panel, I will give one more quick mist to reactivate it and make it easier to wipe clean and streak-free.

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Sorry I should of stated it better I meant to say the water drying not detail spray. I do one panel at a time with the detail spray but sometimes when I get to the other side of the truck the water is almost dry. Didn't know if I should hose the panel down with water and than apply the detail spray

Edited by 01redcrew
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Sorry I should of stated it better I meant to say the water drying not detail spray. I do one panel at a time with the detail spray but sometimes when I get to the other side of the truck the water is almost dry. Didn't know if I should hose the panel down with water and than apply the detail spray

 

Work faster by drying less. Use a pooling method to get the majority of the water off the paint before you start to dry. Some water will begin to dry but the DS will remove the any small spots that were just formed.

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When I dry a truck spray detail spray on the whole thing, then use the sidekick, then use the great white drying towel. If it is in the sun and starts to dry I spray more. H20 G&G I do about 2 panels at a time.

Edited by Nathan
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Brad if I understand your question.......leave the shampoo on your truck while washing and don't rinse off until completely done with washing.

The Shampoo is PH balanced and is safer on your paint than the water is. Also remember to wash your under fenders, wheels & tires first, then move on to your paint.

Hope this helps you.

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Brad if I understand your question.......leave the shampoo on your truck while washing and don't rinse off until completely done with washing.

The Shampoo is PH balanced and is safer on your paint than the water is. Also remember to wash your under fenders, wheels & tires first, then move on to your paint.

Hope this helps you.

 

To add another trick Chris taught us: If the soap residue dries out, leave it.  When you have washed the entire car, clean the pad, and reload with soap.  Now re-suds the car (I can usually do 1/2 the car without reloading the pad).  You can do this quickly, as the paint is clean, and you don't need to clean the pad on the Grit Guard.  Now that the soap is reactivated, spray off the car with a strong stream of water, then follow-up with a pool rinse.

Ready for DS and drying!

 

 With our heat and humidity I have to use this 'reactivation' technique for most 2 bucket washes.

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