Jump to content
Customer Service 866.965.0400
  • 0

paint correcting process


camp316

Question

please help me clear something up.

 

I bought a used truck that has some minor scratches everywhere.

 

after reading a ton, this is what im planning on for my first major paint correction/cleaning/wax day

 

1. strip wash

2. cover with detail spray

3. clay bar with detail spray

 

? Do i clean again with strip wash or go right into polishing. 

 

4. Polish with mainly two step, possibly spot polish with heavy compound on deeper scratches

 

? should i now strip wash again? or 50/50 iso/water or both?

 

? up in the air at this point, heard the debate about glaze then paint seal and visa versa, leaning towards glaze then paint seal

 

5. LPS would be a competitor wax/sealant in one, just cause i wanna use up what i have left, after i will probably go with buttery 

 

 

 

after all this im planning on maintaining by using shampoo and reapply wax as needed. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

this is my plan as of now, i hope to take some pics and do a write up, please let me know if im off the mark on any of this.

I kinda feel like im going to be doing some overkill in the washing processes so please critique my list and any pointers would be great 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

You're on the right track. After your strip wash, you can just clay with detail spray. You're going to use a ton, so no need to cover the truck first. 

 

After claying, you can move right into polishing. After all, the only thing on the vehicle at this point is detail spray residue.

 

After polishing, I do like to strip wash again. Some people with clean paint with 50/50 alcohol and water. You can also use the coating prep that Adam's started distributing when they came out with their coatings.

 

Then you can either apply Brilliant Glaze then Paint Sealant, or vice versa. It's an age old argument here that always turns into an uproar, so it's best avoided. Personally, I prefer Paint Sealant on bare paint. 

 

I'm not sure how the new style Paint Sealant works, but I always prefer to wait til my next wash to apply another sealant or wax. My regiment is to apply HGG once a month over the Paint Sealant, and do standard washes in between. 

 

In the end, you have to do what you think is right. So good luck, and post pics!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Some good information up there /\

 

For the sealant I like it to bond to the clear coat instead of the glaze, but you can do glaze and then sealant if you want the glaze to last a long time.

 

Most people want a better bond to the clear coat, so they do a sealant, a glaze, then a wax. They do this so they glaze will last as long as the wax that is above it. So buttery wax would last about 1-2 months. The glaze without wax on top of it would last about 2 weeks.

 

When polishing remember to start with the least aggressive method first and make sure to apply 3-5 pounds of pressure, the pad should not be spinning very fast. :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Awesome info, i really appreciate it

 

You guys got me on sealant then glaze then wax, 

 

was thinking about the lease aggressive approach first, correct me if im wrong in my thinking - was gonna start with the white pad and finishing polish (swirl killer) and break out the correcting polish and orange pad as needed, also have heavy compound with both the blue and microfiber cutting pads. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

That would be the ideal way to handle it IF your paint were in decent condition. Since you said you have minor scratches, I'd just start with the orange pad and correcting polish. If that doesn't cut it, then move back to the heavy correction polish and blue or microfiber pads.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Awesome info, i really appreciate it

 

You guys got me on sealant then glaze then wax,

 

was thinking about the lease aggressive approach first, correct me if im wrong in my thinking - was gonna start with the white pad and finishing polish (swirl killer) and break out the correcting polish and orange pad as needed, also have heavy compound with both the blue and microfiber cutting pads.

 

The white polish is really a finishing polish, just to make it look good, it's not for correcting, just start with the correcting polish. Some areas may need the heavy compound. Edited by Nathan
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

To add my two cents, towels during this process are just as important. That said, the blue WW towels work great for the 50/50 iso/water cleaning after polish. Meanwhile, the SST or DST work great for removing any PS residue.

 

Enjoy, and post some pics when done!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...