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Where is "compounding"?


OmniCamaro
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My vehicle: 2011 Camaro SS

 

I have lots of time to "research" detailing and I always hear that word, COMPOUND/ING.

Why doesn't Adam's have this?

Why? Well apparently either I have no idea what I'm doing or my thought, Adam's correcting polishes just aren't "harsh" enough. I have every new formula correcting polish, pads, Flex, etc. When I attempt to correct small scratches and imperfections I just can't get rid of them with the current products. Should I buy a rotary? What can I do outside of the norms expressed here to get the job done?

 

Thanks for reading/helping out. I'm at a loss on what to do and I'm scared to burn my paint.

Edited by OmniCamaro
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Adam's does have a compound. The new blue heavy correcting compound utilizing blue foam pad and microfiber pads will remove help heavy swirls and do "compounding" as you put it. A DA, like swirl killer, Rupes, Porter Cable will correct most defects. Really deep scratches will need wetsanding or may be unrepairable without paint.

 

TL:DR Adam's has a compound, heavy correcting compound found here

 

http://adamspolishes.com/shop/exterior/polishing/adam-s-heavy-correcting-compound-8oz.html

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Omni, does the scratch/scratches catch on your fingernail? If so, it may be too deep for your current approach, and possibly for any others short of wet sanding, etc.

 

Also, are you going "all 4 directions" with your polisher? Left, right, forward, back. Go slowly, too.

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Like Chris said, do they catch your fingernail? If they really do, it might take sandpaper or touch up paint to make it look perfect again. Adams sells a drill attachment that acts as a rotary buffer, but when you use it you need to follow with a polisher, for a buffer will put buffer halos all over your finish. Like said above, compounding is simply removing scratches/swirls with a compound, and is usually done if the car is in bad enough condition that just a correcting polish won't fix it.

 

When correcting you need to apply 3-5 pounds of pressure, make a mark on your backing plate so you know how fast the pad is spinning, it shouldn't be moving very fast.

 

Like Chris said, go in a cross hatch pattern and don't go too fast, if you go really slow just check the panel to make sure it doesn't get too hot.

 

Adams has a great video series on their YouTube channel called the Paint Correction Series, I would recommend checking it out!

 

If the correcting polish isn't cutting it for you, get the microfiber pad and heavy compound, try that, if you use it though you need to follow with the correcting polish because the compound will leave hazing behind. And if you do buy the compound with the microfiber pad, you will want to get the pad conditioning brush, because the microfiber will easily become pushed down and won't work as good.

 

Remember cord always over the shoulder and to mist the pad with DS!

 

Pictures would help!

Edited by Nathan
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I swear there's a parrot on the forum!

 

 

My vehicle: 2011 Camaro SS

I have lots of time to "research" detailing and I always hear that word, COMPOUND/ING.

Why doesn't Adam's have this?

Why? Well apparently either I have no idea what I'm doing or my thought, Adam's correcting polishes just aren't "harsh" enough. I have every new formula correcting polish, pads, Flex, etc. When I attempt to correct small scratches and imperfections I just can't get rid of them with the current products. Should I buy a rotary? What can I do outside of the norms expressed here to get the job done?

Thanks for reading/helping out. I'm at a loss on what to do and I'm scared to burn my paint.

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I'll do my best to get some pictures. It's Silver Ice paint and hard to see so it's mostly just me being anal. One spot looks like keys were pounded on the roof. Stuff like that.

 

I know they're not through the paint. I do have the blue polish and have used it with the microfiber pad. My whole thing is HEAT, I check the area and if it's getting too hot I stop or move on.

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I apparently can't use the drill attachment stuff, I damaged the wife's paint the very first time I used it, and the pad kind of fell apart on me. So I'm not going there again.

 

I've watched every Adam's video on paint correction many times.

 

I think if I get some good pictures it'll help a lot. I'll try to do that in the next few days.

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Do you mean you burned through the clear coat? The drill attachment shouldn't be very hard...just make sure you check the heat of the panel because it acts as a rotary buffer. Also make sure the pad is centered on the drill backing plate.

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Don't mind the scratch looking dust everywhere.  Tried to get one of the scratches I'm talking about here.  It can be felt with a fingernail.

 

What can I do to remedy this type of scratch (center of pic), I have many that I want to see gone.  

 

Thanks!

 

post-9367-0-06766700-1495075402_thumb.jpg

Edited by OmniCamaro
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Also, on the heat subject:  When is it "too hot"?  I usually move on or take a break when I touch the area with my gloved hand and it's fairly warm.  I just thought of something, I have a heat gun I can use.  Has anyone ever measured an area they are working on with a heat gun (the laser pointer gun that measures temp)?  That would be some good useful info to post here on the forums!

Edited by OmniCamaro
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It's hard to tell from the picture. But I'd start with a machine and correcting polish, 3-5 pounds pressure, don't let it get too hot, if that won't get it out, try the compound, if that doesn't work then try Adams drill attachment buffer, and then follow that with a machine, and if that doesn't work you might need touch up paint and to wet sand.

 

And if it gets hot then wait until it cools down a little. Lol you don't want it very hot.

Edited by Nathan
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If it's hot thru a glove ,its too hot lol.the scratch on your roof ,wet it with water does it dissappear?. What kind of machine are u using and how much pressure are u applying ?

I wear vinyl gloves and it definitely gets hot to the touch.  I use the flex3401, I start with the MF pad, add some polish with a spritz of detail spray, start slow and spread the polish then ramp up the speed and pressure.  After a few minutes I check for heat, If it's hot I'll stop, brush out the MF pad, mist some detail spray on it and then go back at it.  I use the Flex 3401 at a medium-high rate of speed (not the highest setting, just under).  

The paint on the Camaro (or most GM vehicles) is super hard and thin, from what I can tell from ownership of several late model chevy's. The paint chips horribly.  Not sure if sharing that info can help me or not.

 

It's hard to tell from the picture. But I'd start with a machine and correcting polish, 3-5 pounds pressure, don't let it get too hot, if that won't get it out, try the compound, if that doesn't work then try Adams drill attachment buffer, and then follow that with a machine, and if that doesn't work you might need touch up paint and to wet sand.

 

And if it gets hot then wait until it cools down a little. Lol you don't want it very hot.

 

Yeah I'm not good at taking pictures, sorry.  My method is above.  I really want to stay away from the drill attachment stuff but I have used the wet sand method on my Silverado repairing chips so I can do that pretty well.  I may just start with that on the worst ones that I'm sure the machine won't get.  

 

Thanks for the input guys.

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