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LPS removal


DF24

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Just wanted to make a quick video showing how easy this stuff is to buff off! Incase there was someone who hasn’t tried it and would like to see just how easy it buffs. By far the easiest Sealant/wax to remove from all the ones I’ve tried. Hope it shows how well it comes off, sorry it was quick I was cold already lol. It was 35 degrees real feel in Chicago at this time that I was removing the LPS. I know I’m going to get ding on my black trim is terrible, I haven’t done anything to this car in the last 3 years 😭😔 and it shows my paint is terrible. But I got into wanting to detail again and this time I came back but with Adams products 🤗 The steps I took this night was, (wash, iron x, clay mitt, LPS) 

the most annoying thing I had was that for some reason I kept coming in contact with water that would come out from the crivices and smear all over as I would wipe off with my towel 😡and wouldn’t remove 100% is this because of the temperature outside maybe? Anyone know if the temp outside has anything to do with how easy or hard it is to dry a vehicle 

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Temperature can have an effect on how easy/hard product goes on or comes off. If it’s cold, they can definitely be a bit stubborn. Same when it’s hot. 

 

If you have stubborn product, a shot of detail spray will often times help remove it. 

 

As for the water, that will always get into seams when washing. The best way to eliminate it is to use a blower to push it all out. 

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5 hours ago, shane@detailedreflections said:

Temperature can have an effect on how easy/hard product goes on or comes off. If it’s cold, they can definitely be a bit stubborn. Same when it’s hot. 

 

If you have stubborn product, a shot of detail spray will often times help remove it. 

 

As for the water, that will always get into seams when washing. The best way to eliminate it is to use a blower to push it all out. 

I tried using the blower they had their but it sucked. It was at a coin wash where I did everything. My hose at home was frozen and I couldn’t take my air compressor. I hope I gave the sealant enough time to bond and I didn’t remove it so quick, this was my first time using this sealant. The bottle just doesn’t really give a time just says to let it dry a little, I have detail spray I can’t wait to use and I have the g&g

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45 minutes ago, DF24 said:

I tried using the blower they had their but it sucked. It was at a coin wash where I did everything. My hose at home was frozen and I couldn’t take my air compressor. I hope I gave the sealant enough time to bond and I didn’t remove it so quick, this was my first time using this sealant. The bottle just doesn’t really give a time just says to let it dry a little, I have detail spray I can’t wait to use and I have the g&g

 

It doesn't need to cure, so you're fine. I apply over the whole car, then come right back and remove with no issues at all in end result.

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I'm about ready to use LPS after a complete clay/fine polish. How is it around plastic trim? Should I treat the trim first with VRT to ensure the LPS does not cloud up the textured plastic?

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Treating the trim with VRT is a good idea.  Taping it off is a better idea.  You do not want to get LPS on your trim.  It will come off but it takes a bit of effort.

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I used VRT before the hand polish and PS as recommended by falcaineer and it worked great! I did use some care around the trim just to be safe though. I did go a little too heavy on some places that took detail spray later on to clean-up. Even with that there was a few spots that were stubborn. The solution was to just wait a week and then do a standard two bucket wash and all was good with any minor remaining haze. By the way after the wash a week later it even looked better!

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