Spent the day applying Graphene and...

[SC Ron]

....to the car (brand new Honda CR-V) and it looked great under regular light.

 

I did all the prep work, striping the dealer applied wax, iron removal, claying, machine polishing, applying Graphene (one 3x3 section at a time), and wiping off with the kit's gray silk like cloth.

 

I used the full Graphene kit, but the UV light was not too helpful with the garage light during application.

 

Tonight, I went back into the fully dark garage (8 hours after applying) with the UV light and my coating looks terrible.

 

Lots of streaking and hazing.  It really looks like I applied regular wax but did't wipe off the haze.  Using the regular overhead garage lights, it does look great.

 

Is this normal, until the 24 hour curing is complete or have I messed up?

 

 

[SC Ron]

And, I used the surface prep before applying the Graphene.

[Eswear]

Did you buff it off after wiping it with the gray towel? The suede towel is to level it and you should buff it it with the plush polishing towel that was in the kit. I think that’s what happened. 

[SC Ron]

Bingo...

 

 

[falcaineer]

Those are high spots, the coating residue wasn't fully removed. Try the following in order, if available, starting in a small spot to see what works, then use the same process on the rest of the car.

 

1) Brilliant Glaze, wiped away with a plush microfiber towel

2) Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating (applied to reactivate the coating, then immediately wiped away)

3) Apply a few drops of white Polish to a plush microfiber towel, like a Borderless Grey, laid completely flat, not folded, and use your entire hand to lightly and evenly rub the areas until the high spots disappear.  Wipe away residue and enjoy, no need to reapply

4) Machine polish with white pad and Polish, then Surface Prep, then reapply the coating on the affected area, level, and allow to fully cure

 

That should get you squared away!

 

 

 

 

[falcaineer]

BTW, welcome! Post an intro so we can get to know you!

[SC Ron]

3 minutes ago, SC Ron said:

Bingo...

 

 

I read the brief instructions and watched the video on the home page and totally missed seeing use the gray polishing towel.  I only used the gray silk towel like was used on the video. 

 

My bad.

 

Thanks. 

 

What's the correction now? 

[falcaineer]

1 minute ago, SC Ron said:

I read the brief instructions and watched the video on the home page and totally missed seeing use the gray polishing towel.  I only used the gray silk towel like was used on the video. 

 

My bad.

 

Thanks. 

 

What's the correction now? 

 

See my post above...

[SC Ron]

2 minutes ago, falcaineer said:

Those are high spots, the coating that wasn't fully removed. Try the following in order, if available, starting in a small spot to see what works, then use the same process on the rest of the car.

 

1) Brilliant Glaze, wiped away with a plush microfiber towel

2) Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating (applied to reactivate the coating, then immediately wiped away)

3) Apply a few drops of white Polish to a plush microfiber towel, like a Borderless Grey, laid completely flat, not folded, and use your entire hand to lightly and evenly rub the areas until the high spots disappear.  Wipe away residue and enjoy, no need to reapply

4) Machine polish with white pad and Polish, then Surface Prep, then reapply the coating on the affected area, level, and allow to fully cure

 

That should get you squared away!

 

 

 

 

Will do.  It's in the 'curing' phase now, so I'm interested to see what happens when water hits it.

 

Thanks again.

[falcaineer]

3 minutes ago, SC Ron said:

Will do.  It's in the 'curing' phase now, so I'm interested to see what happens when water hits it.

 

Thanks again.

 

You can still use BG or Ceramic Spray Coating now

[SC Ron]

Well...my 'messed up' process worked pretty well.

 

There a quite a few 'high spots' showing.  I have a dark blue Honda, so if really look, you can see them.

 

I'll have to get some Brilliant Glaze and Spray GB to fix them.

 

I drove through a major down pour and the beading was terrific.

 

By the time I got home, every tiny drop had blown off.

 

Graphene is a great product.

 

I did go back to watch the Graphene videos and (not to complain), but the wipe off towels used were not the polish towels.  

 

That's were I made my mistake in just using the gray silk towels.  Maybe you can stress that in your next video.

 

Thanks for a great product.

[RayS]

@SC RonI see that you are on South Carolina - If you are close the Columbia/Lexington area, I can help you out on the adjustments and chemicals if needed.  Almost, most of the bigger Chevy dealers in SC carry Brilliant Glaze along with a few other standard Adam's products.

[SC Ron]

Thanks for your offer.

 

I’m near Charleston. 

 

I have basically corrected my first application. I am amazed at how water micro beads and flows off the paint and glass. And how good my Honda looks clean. 
 

Thanks again, but I’ve managed to end up getting a great result. 

[Junior]

So does Brilliant Glaze level it and then there’s no need to reapply the coating? I’m asking because I did an application yesterday and I have some high spots where it didn’t fully level out. I have Brilliant Glaze, Graphene Spray Coating, and Graphene Detail spray. Was curious if trying one of the sprays would be a better first option than using glaze. I applied the coating a little over 14 hours ago. Was thinking about doing a quick Waterless wash on the section and then trying the recommended steps.

[falcaineer]

18 minutes ago, Junior said:

So does Brilliant Glaze level it and then there’s no need to reapply the coating? I’m asking because I did an application yesterday and I have some high spots where it didn’t fully level out. I have Brilliant Glaze, Graphene Spray Coating, and Graphene Detail spray. Was curious if trying one of the sprays would be a better first option than using glaze. I applied the coating a little over 14 hours ago. Was thinking about doing a quick Waterless wash on the section and then trying the recommended steps.

 

Correct, the solvent helps to level the high spots. But depending on how long it's been on, as you said 14+ hours, you may need to step up or try something else as I outlined above.

[Junior]

1 hour ago, falcaineer said:

 

Correct, the solvent helps to level the high spots. But depending on how long it's been on, as you said 14+ hours, you may need to step up or try something else as I outlined above.

Thanks, I tried the glaze and I think it knocked them down pretty well. Question, what steps would you take if thinking of layering an additional coat past the 24 hour mark? Is it as simple as doing a coating prep step then applying?

[falcaineer]

1 hour ago, Junior said:

Thanks, I tried the glaze and I think it knocked them down pretty well. Question, what steps would you take if thinking of layering an additional coat past the 24 hour mark? Is it as simple as doing a coating prep step then applying?

 

I wouldn't. One layer is enough, assuming you applied it evenly/fully. With coatings, the law of diminishing returns applies, and adding 2+ layers won't give 2x+ the protection. Stick with one, maintain it properly, and enjoy the benefits!

[Junior]

Guys I noticed some really small specs that appear to be white in color almost like the liquid hardened into small dots. Has anyone seen this before? In some places they come off with the suede towel or microfiber towel but in some places they are pretty stubborn. Could that mean I let it flash too long? I probably waited two minutes before wiping the coating off. It was basically once the rainbow effect had dissipated.

Edited December 7, 2020 by Junior

[falcaineer]

Hard to tell. Did you try BG? A little Polish on a borderless grey towel by hand might work, too.

[Junior]

1 hour ago, falcaineer said:

Hard to tell. Did you try BG? A little Polish on a borderless grey towel by hand might work, too.

Yes I think Glaze knocked it out in the places where it was more stubborn. I was just curious if I’m doing something wrong in the process mainly with regard to the time I am waiting before removing it. I was thinking I’d read or seen where you typically wait for the rainbow to diminish. Regardless I guess I can try removing it quicker, like in the first minute. Still have more sections to work on. So far, I’ve only done the hood and the trunk. Figured those panels take a pretty good amount of abuse so I wanted to get them first.

Edited December 7, 2020 by Junior

[falcaineer]

9 hours ago, Junior said:

Yes I think Glaze knocked it out in the places where it was more stubborn. I was just curious if I’m doing something wrong in the process mainly with regard to the time I am waiting before removing it. I was thinking I’d read or seen where you typically wait for the rainbow to diminish. Regardless I guess I can try removing it quicker, like in the first minute. Still have more sections to work on. So far, I’ve only done the hood and the trunk. Figured those panels take a pretty good amount of abuse so I wanted to get them first.

 

You don't and shouldn't necessarily need to remove it sooner, doing so won't allow it to bond properly.

 

Honestly, I've found it's often best to go by feel, not time. Like on a white vehicle, for example, where it's really hard to see the coating flash. Instead, take a plush towel and drag it very lightly across the surface. If it slides easily, it's too soon. When it starts to grab and the surface is tacky, then it's time to remove it. That amount of time may be a minute, maybe a few, and will vary based on several factors like the amount applied, temperature and humidity (faster in high temps and humidity, slower in cooler temps and low humidity).

 

One other tip, make sure and shake the bottle before use and during, just to keep the ingredients all mixed.

[Junior]

Thanks Chris. I’ve been shaking the bottle up for sure. I still think I’ve been waiting too long because in one section it seems like it was 3 minutes before the rainbow effect was totally gone. I am going to try and time my next round to be sure. And I realize it does vary based on the factors you mentioned. Thanks again for the info.

[RayS]

I've found that less than 55 degrees or above 95 degrees, wait until it warms up or cools down.  As for humidity, if it is above 80%, regardless of the temp, you'll be challenged to get the timing right from panel to panel, so you really need to go by feel.    If the panels are hot or cold that can also change the characteristics, especially if you have the sun coming through a window on one panel.  Try to have them cool to the touch for metal and warm for fiberglass - at least on golf carts. 

 

I've found my preferred working condition to be between 65 and 90 degrees with humidity between 35% and 75% and I keep my squirrel fans on low to give a little air movement, but not blow dust around.  I have had the time range from just over a minute to about 4 minutes according to the weather conditions. 

[Chris@Adams]

I might add that I turn off at least half of my garage lights when I am coating so I can use my UV light.

With the uv light you can get the coating more uniform.