Do I need to wet sand!

[Saular]

Hello I have a 1991 mustang and I am thinking of doing a paint correction and ceramic coating. I have already done this to one of my previous cars before and it turned out great. This car got a new paint job not too long ago I don’t know exactly when but the previous owner said it did. there is some noticeable orange peel and swirl marks. Do I need to wet sand to get the orange peel out or will a compound and polish get rid of it? Thanks 

Edited February 23, 2022 by Saular

[falcaineer]

Compound and Polish will not remove orange peel, you're looking at sanding.

[Saular]

1 hour ago, falcaineer said:

Compound and Polish will not remove orange peel, you're looking at sanding.

So how aggressive should I go what grit should I use?

[RayS]

Without seeing the car in person, I can't give you an actual recommendation, but I can tell you what I do and you'll have to use your own judgement on where to start.

 

Before you read what I do, read this:  It is always easier to go more aggressive than to fix something because you started out too aggressive.  When there is any doubt or possibility of causing harm, go less aggressive.

 

On vehicles that I am unfamiliar with the paint job that was done, I'll usually start with 3,000 grit in a test spot taking it real easy and checking the progress often.  If the paint is very smooth already then I do the test spot with 5,000.  If there is no difference that is noticeable, I'll go to 2,500, 2,000, 1,500, 1,000 and 800 is where I set my limit, unless I know how it was painted and what paint was used.     If the vehicle is show class, I'll start with 5,000 and go from there, but I also end up with 7,000.

 

In any case, be very careful with wet sanding, you can easily go through the clear coat or cause damage that can only be corrected with a repaint. 

 

 

 

[Saular]

1 hour ago, RayS said:

Without seeing the car in person, I can't give you an actual recommendation, but I can tell you what I do and you'll have to use your own judgement on where to start.

 

Before you read what I do, read this:  It is always easier to go more aggressive than to fix something because you started out too aggressive.  When there is any doubt or possibility of causing harm, go less aggressive.

 

On vehicles that I am unfamiliar with the paint job that was done, I'll usually start with 3,000 grit in a test spot taking it real easy and checking the progress often.  If the paint is very smooth already then I do the test spot with 5,000.  If there is no difference that is noticeable, I'll go to 2,500, 2,000, 1,500, 1,000 and 800 is where I set my limit, unless I know how it was painted and what paint was used.     If the vehicle is show class, I'll start with 5,000 and go from there, but I also end up with 7,000.

 

In any case, be very careful with wet sanding, you can easily go through the clear coat or cause damage that can only be corrected with a repaint. 

 

 

 

thanks How can I tell if it is good while the paint is dull? And should I hand sand or use my da?

[07stanggt]

Do you have a paint thickness gauge? Thats a good place to start especially on a car that has been painted previously. As mentioned, go slow, test spot, buff it out, and see where you land. To much and your up the creek without a paddle ! 1000,1500,2000,2500 and smooth out with 3-5000 and a lot of water, tape, and patience!! Here are some pics of my 2013 Shelby I did. Scary beginning but stunning results.

 

 

 

 

Edited February 24, 2022 by 07stanggt

[Saular]

3 hours ago, 07stanggt said:

Do you have a paint thickness gauge? Thats a good place to start especially on a car that has been painted previously. As mentioned, go slow, test spot, buff it out, and see where you land. To much and your up the creek without a paddle ! 1000,1500,2000,2500 and smooth out with 3-5000 and a lot of water, tape, and patience!! Here are some pics of my 2013 Shelby I did. Scary beginning but stunning results.

 

 

 

 

I don’t have a thicknesses gauge is it worth getting one. And what’s a good one to get. I have a 6 inch Da would that work for wet sanding or should I do it by hand? Thanks

[RayS]

9 hours ago, Saular said:

I don’t have a thicknesses gauge is it worth getting one. And what’s a good one to get. I have a 6 inch Da would that work for wet sanding or should I do it by hand? Thanks

@07stanggt provided some good visuals to see the impact and solid information.  As for getting a gauge, the answer is a resounding yes.  If you are doing detailing and using a polisher, you should have a paint thickness gauge.  They are not very expense and can prevent you from taking on jobs that you'd be better off not taking on.

[German]

To take a slightly different approach - consider polishing a test panel, see how it looks; compound and re-polish if necessary. You might like what you see enough to avoid or postpone the wet sanding for now. Orange peel isn't pretty to look at, but it hides a ton of minor day to day flaws. A good polish, working on your technique, maybe adding a small polisher for nooks and crannies to go with your large one - these might be a good first approach to the car. The Adam's 3" Swirl Killer (12mm Mini) has been a great addition for me in this regard.

 

Jimmy's Shelby looks spectacular, and also reflect a good deal of experience. If nothing else, I'd recommend getting some scrap body panels from a salvage yard to practice on.

Edited February 25, 2022 by German

[Saular]

18 hours ago, RayS said:

@07stanggt provided some good visuals to see the impact and solid information.  As for getting a gauge, the answer is a resounding yes.  If you are doing detailing and using a polisher, you should have a paint thickness gauge.  They are not very expense and can prevent you from taking on jobs that you'd be better off not taking on.

Thanks this really helped me a lot I still have a few question.

should I use my 6 inch da or do it by hand?

Is there certain brands or types of sand paper I would need to use? 
thanks again
 

 

[07stanggt]

On 2/24/2022 at 10:38 AM, Saular said:

I don’t have a thicknesses gauge is it worth getting one. And what’s a good one to get. I have a 6 inch Da would that work for wet sanding, or should I do it by hand? Thanks

Do not use a da if have not wet sanded before. By hand in my opinion lets you "feel" the paint (clearcoat) better and when you get used to the feel you know how far to go or not. DEFINETLEY practice on a hood, quarter panel, etc. which you can get from any body shop or junk yard. If you look at the first pic and see the orange peel in the paint, the second pic you can see it fading away and the light has more of a straight look to it, so you know you're getting close.  Again, a one-shot deal and no turning back once you started. It took me 30 or so hours to completely wet sand, buff, etc to get my car perfect. People told me I was crazy to do it till they saw the end result. The car has no orange peel or scratches for that matter and that's the way its staying!!

 

[Saular]

1 minute ago, 07stanggt said:

Do not use a da if have not wet sanded before. By hand in my opinion lets you "feel" the paint (clearcoat) better and when you get used to the feel you know how far to go or not. DEFINETLEY practice on a hood, quarter panel, etc. which you can get from any body shop or junk yard. If you look at the first pic and see the orange peel in the paint, the second pic you can see it fading away and the light has more of a straight look to it, so you know you're getting close.  Again, a one-shot deal and no turning back once you started. It took me 30 or so hours to completely wet sand, buff, etc to get my car perfect. People told me I was crazy to do it till they saw the end result. The car has no orange peel or scratches for that matter and that's the way its staying!!

 

Ok thanks for all the help

[RayS]

To follow up on Jimmy's statement, I have wet sanded many times and I rarely use a machine and when I do it is a machine that is meant for it.    As German stated, pick up a test panel, if you pick one with a dent or other damage you can usually get it for the price of scrap metal.