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Polishing / Detailing - Black Car (NEW)


AtlCanadian

Question

Hey guys,

So I have a 21 Wrangler with Super Black paint. I bought it new in October, and took it straight to a professional detail shop to have it paint corrected (removing dealer installed swirls) and apply a Ceramic Coating.  They did a crappy job and had to strip the coating and re-apply it, although I don't think that is what they did.. I think they just put a booster or something else on, maybe a light buff, to level it and fix the blemishes in it.

Anyway, fast forward... I hired them to do a maintenance wash a month ago and they left a ton of swirl marks and water spots in the paint.

I have a few questions, as my wife loves this vehicle (her dream car) so we may keep it long term 10+ years:
 

  • On average, how frequent or often can you polish (enhance or 1-step) a vehicle safely? I read mixed bags on this, some say rarely, some say yearly.
  • How many micron (on average) does a polish (1 step) remove from the clear?
  • Is hand polishing less abrasive? Do you take much, if any clear away doing hand polishing?
  • If I have someone else do a 1-step to "reset" the paint per say, is that too soon?


    Last not but not least... can someone give me a proper wash routine?

 

Our last car was white, the one before that metallic silver (but we only kept it a year) and the one before that was used and blue so had tons of defects. This is my first black car, so I want to make sure we get it looked after and keep it in the best possible shape.

Here's as much information that I can provide you:

I have a foam cannon, pressure washer, 2 buckets, 2 grit guards and all kinds of products..

In the winter, I can use a manual (spray wash self serve) without the brush OR automatic but I cannot wash from home or use mits during the winter.

 

 

Thanks in advance,

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A lot to digest here, so I'll give it a whirl... But first, welcome! Be sure to post an intro so we can get to know you and see what you're keeping shiny.

 

In short, there's no one right answer, it depends. I know that's not a popular answer, but detailing is an art, not a science. Every car and finish is different, even the same year, make and model sitting next to each other will probably need at least somewhat different approaches. And black cars are a lifestyle - as Adam says when people ask what they need to care for black paint? White paint! haha

 

The steps needed to get the car looking its best are based on many factors including how the car is maintained, where its parked, usual driving conditions, and others. Also, the type of pads and chemicals will factor in to how often you can do the paint correction, but that's not all - the protection on the car, the overall condition of the clear coat, routine wash methods, etc., also play into the equation.

 

On average, today's cars have 1-2 mils (~25-50 microns) of clear coat. That said, if there's ever been any bodywork that number could vary pretty dramatically. It could also be thinner around edges of body panels and along thinner parts of the body like vents and fins. A paint gauge will be your friend in the process if you're concerned. How much is removed will vary based on how soft or hard it is, the pads and chemicals used, the process to correct the paint, etc. For you, Jeep paint is usually pretty easy to correct but black can take some finesse to finish down properly.

 

Hand polishing in general would be less aggressive, we simply can't replicate a machine's speed and power. But polishing too long by hand especially where clear coat is thin may ultimately cause some damage.  I would guess that would be rare, but possible.

 

Waiting or not before polishing again will not probably not make much of a difference, so that's up to you. Note a one step polish generally will not remove all defects in the paint, I recommend you have the detailer do a test spot on an area indicative of most of the car and you see if you'll be happy with that result. If not, a different approach may be warranted.

 

For the proper wash methods, here's a video that should explain just about everything you need to know. I also linked a winter wash video for future reference, but they're usually updated annually so new products may be available next year.

 

If you're interested in learning from us to do it yourself, we offer a 2-day class called the Shine Academy. It's an investment, but the cost includes course fees, course certificate, goods totaling $500+ including a Swirl Killer Pro of your choice and kit, Graphene Ceramic Coating kit, meals and more. We have students from around the world attend and I promise it's worth it.

 

Keep the questions coming, we're here to help!

 

 

 

 

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On 5/21/2022 at 8:13 PM, falcaineer said:

A lot to digest here, so I'll give it a whirl... But first, welcome! Be sure to post an intro so we can get to know you and see what you're keeping shiny.

 

In short, there's no one right answer, it depends. I know that's not a popular answer, but detailing is an art, not a science. Every car and finish is different, even the same year, make and model sitting next to each other will probably need at least somewhat different approaches. And black cars are a lifestyle - as Adam says when people ask what they need to care for black paint? White paint! haha

 

The steps needed to get the car looking its best are based on many factors including how the car is maintained, where its parked, usual driving conditions, and others. Also, the type of pads and chemicals will factor in to how often you can do the paint correction, but that's not all - the protection on the car, the overall condition of the clear coat, routine wash methods, etc., also play into the equation.

 

On average, today's cars have 1-2 mils (~25-50 microns) of clear coat. That said, if there's ever been any bodywork that number could vary pretty dramatically. It could also be thinner around edges of body panels and along thinner parts of the body like vents and fins. A paint gauge will be your friend in the process if you're concerned. How much is removed will vary based on how soft or hard it is, the pads and chemicals used, the process to correct the paint, etc. For you, Jeep paint is usually pretty easy to correct but black can take some finesse to finish down properly.

 

Hand polishing in general would be less aggressive, we simply can't replicate a machine's speed and power. But polishing too long by hand especially where clear coat is thin may ultimately cause some damage.  I would guess that would be rare, but possible.

 

Waiting or not before polishing again will not probably not make much of a difference, so that's up to you. Note a one step polish generally will not remove all defects in the paint, I recommend you have the detailer do a test spot on an area indicative of most of the car and you see if you'll be happy with that result. If not, a different approach may be warranted.

 

For the proper wash methods, here's a video that should explain just about everything you need to know. I also linked a winter wash video for future reference, but they're usually updated annually so new products may be available next year.

 

If you're interested in learning from us to do it yourself, we offer a 2-day class called the Shine Academy. It's an investment, but the cost includes course fees, course certificate, goods totaling $500+ including a Swirl Killer Pro of your choice and kit, Graphene Ceramic Coating kit, meals and more. We have students from around the world attend and I promise it's worth it.

 

Keep the questions coming, we're here to help!

 

 

 

 


Wow! Thank you for the in depth response. I'll check out the video tonight before I detail tomorrow. As for the classes, the summer is my busy season but I'll 100% see if I can make one work in the fall.. seems well worth while.

The only other thing I forgot to ask, any recommendations or tips for paint chip repair? I have one on a bolt on the Jeep, the bolt can't be removed (without making it worse) and I've looked at ChipFixx which I have a kit (unsure if the paint is still good, roughly 6 months old) so going to do a test spot on another chip - BUT, what is the best way to make chips invisible?  Sorry for mentioning another product here, I know you don't sell paint chip repair paint etc so hopefully I didn't break a rule here.

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Welcome to the Forum.

I've used several different chip repair kits over the last year based on what I could get.  The good news is that they all worked equally well as long as I followed directions to the letter.  You should expect to spend between $20 and $40 USD according to the color, vehicle and how many chips you need to fix.  There are a few that are more expensive than $40, but I did not use any of them in the last year.  

 

A google search for Top Car Chip Repair Kits will get you a few articles with comprehensive writeups on effort and outcome along with prices, then you can look for availability of the product(s) you like. 

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I haven't dabbled much in paint chip repair. The little bit I have done I did using a kit from Langka and it showed me there's finesse involved, and like detailing, it's an art. Definitely do any repairs needed before you apply the coating or it won't stick, and allow sufficient time for it to dry before polishing. You might even consider doing it after because the paint correction phase could very well remove the new paint chip repairs. 

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On 5/23/2022 at 9:58 PM, RayS said:

Welcome to the Forum.

I've used several different chip repair kits over the last year based on what I could get.  The good news is that they all worked equally well as long as I followed directions to the letter.  You should expect to spend between $20 and $40 USD according to the color, vehicle and how many chips you need to fix.  There are a few that are more expensive than $40, but I did not use any of them in the last year.  

On 5/23/2022 at 9:58 PM, RayS said:

A google search for Top Car Chip Repair Kits will get you a few articles with comprehensive writeups on effort and outcome along with prices, then you can look for availability of the product(s) you like. 

 


Thank you! Do you know how long touch up paint is usually good for? I got a kit from Chip Fixx in October or November, it says "best use 60 days, good for 6 months" so I'm not sure what the difference would be using it now?

 

 

 

 

 

On 5/23/2022 at 10:26 PM, Rich said:

Welcome to the forum.  Word of advice..........find someone else to detail and care for your car.  After a second messup, you shouldn't go back.


Appreciate this. So the only reason I entertained it, is they have excellent reviews prior and they refunded my entire first bill. So I felt sort of.. obligated. Lesson learned though. :(

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I keep mine kits in a climate controlled area and have used them up to a year after purchase without any issues.  If they haven't been climate controlled, froze or in a hot environment, I'd be hesitant to go that long.   Also, the smaller the kit the higher the chance of problems since there is not much paint in there, so it dries out quickly.  When you open the kit, if the paint of gummy, then you can pretty much count on it being bad.

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