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Adam's Headlight Correction (TEASER!)


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Here are some images of some upcoming toys that will soon be available!

 

We started with a Ford Focus that has not seen shelter in over 1 year! Headlights were faded, scratched, and downright abused!

 

Tools:

1 Adam's Detail Spray

1 Adam's Clay Bar

1 Adam's Swirl and Haze Remover

1 Drill (cordless is safest)

1 Adam's 4" Yellow Pad (name coming soon)

1 Adam's 4" White Pad (name coming soon)

1 Adam's True Blue Microfiber Towel

1 Camera

2 Adam's employees

7 minutes total!

Before:

As you can see, headlight needs some love!

 

headlightbefore2.jpg

headlightcloseup.jpg

headlightcloseup2.jpg

headlightcloseupbefore.jpg

 

Break out the clay bar to remove any serious contaminants we didn't want to grind into the plastic housing:

 

headlightdetailspray.jpg

claybarinuse.jpg

headlightafterclay.jpg

 

Time to rock! Our new 4" yellow pad is our most aggressive yet and was the perfect way to get the surface started! Adam's Swirl and Haze Remover was prepp'd and set!

 

yellowpadproductonit.jpg

yellowpadherewego.jpg

yellowpadduringunderhood.jpg

yellowpadcloseupinuse.jpg

headlightyellowpadduring.jpg

headlightyellowcloseup.jpg

 

WOAH!

 

yellowpadusedafter.jpg

 

White Pad with Swirl and Haze Remover for some final touch up:

 

headlightduringwhitepad.jpg

whitepadalmostdone.jpg

whitepadalmostdone2.jpg

 

No need to buy new lights now!

 

headlightafter.jpg

headlightafterfromside.jpg

 

STAY TUNED FOR AVAILABILITY!

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Actually, since they attach to the PC, there's no need to use the drill/pad combo on your paint. :2thumbs:

 

I disagree to an extent... that G37s detail I posted a few weeks back had 2 or 3 scratches that multiple passes on the PC wouldn't take out. I knew going in they would be too much for the PC... moved the 4" pads over to my craftsman 18v cordless and worked it like a rotary. Took the scratch out super quick leaving only a slight marring behind. Switched back to my PC and made a pass w/ the full sized orange pad, white pad, and done... never knew the scratches were there.

 

Now... I wouldn't recommend anyone just picking up a drill and attacking their paint with these, but if used properly they will give you all the correcting ability of a rotary polisher like a makita... but that comes with all the potential for disaster as well so use caution.

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... Now... I wouldn't recommend anyone just picking up a drill and attacking their paint with these, but if used properly they will give you all the correcting ability of a rotary polisher like a makita... but that comes with all the potential for disaster as well so use caution.

 

Which is why the focal pads come with the attachment for the PC. It's the safe way to go about scratch removal from the paint. I'm thinking a guy can live with a scratch that has been lessened to a degree instead of a big patch of burnt or missing paint, at least until he can get it fixed by someone more experienced. :thumbsup:

 

Here's the link to the videos and pictures that I did featuring these pads.

Edited by Junkman2008
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Now... I wouldn't recommend anyone just picking up a drill and attacking their paint with these, but if used properly they will give you all the correcting ability of a rotary polisher like a makita... but that comes with all the potential for disaster as well so use caution.

 

Definately. A circular polisher is risk vs. reward. If anyone does decide to take it to their paint; keep it moving and use just enough pressure to keep it under control - don't stand on it like a PC! And I totally agree with A.J., too; When it comes down to it - people should live with a diminished scratch rather than with a panel that's been resprayed because of their mistake. This is one of those situations where a practice panel from a junkyard would really come in handy!

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I have some water etching on my plastic painted spoiler. I was going to buy these pads for that and my headlights. Now, I am not too sure about using them on the paint with a drill, no PC here.

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Definately. A circular polisher is risk vs. reward. If anyone does decide to take it to their paint; keep it moving and use just enough pressure to keep it under control - don't stand on it like a PC! And I totally agree with A.J., too; When it comes down to it - people should live with a diminished scratch rather than with a panel that's been resprayed because of their mistake. This is one of those situations where a practice panel from a junkyard would really come in handy!

 

Yea, I speak from a $1900.00 learning lesson! :willy:

 

I have some water etching on my plastic painted spoiler. I was going to buy these pads for that and my headlights. Now, I am not too sure about using them on the paint with a drill, no PC here.

 

PC cost $109. That's some cheap security. :2thumbs:

 

My question is what do most cordless drills spin at? 1000 rpm? 500?

 

Probably a safer option but you never know. I'd chance it on my girlfriend's heap but not my Vette!

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Yea, I speak from a $1900.00 learning lesson! :willy:

 

 

 

PC cost $109. That's some cheap security. :2thumbs:

 

 

 

Probably a safer option but you never know. I'd chance it on my girlfriend's heap but not my Vette!

 

 

How many panels did you mess up? :lol:

 

I personally feel uncomfortable using something (like a drill) on paint where I have no idea what RPM it is spinning at and therefore no reference (like I would with a rotary at least).

 

Now AJ you said there was a way that I could attach these 4" pads to my flex? Do I simply unattach the backing plate that comes hooked to the flex and voila the adapter bolts right on?

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How many panels did you mess up? :lol:

 

I personally feel uncomfortable using something (like a drill) on paint where I have no idea what RPM it is spinning at and therefore no reference (like I would with a rotary at least).

 

Now AJ you said there was a way that I could attach these 4" pads to my flex? Do I simply unattach the backing plate that comes hooked to the flex and voila the adapter bolts right on?

 

If you look at the video, I hold up the attachment that scws into the back plate and also screws into the PC. It is a small connector similar to what is already on your big back plate.

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Now AJ you said there was a way that I could attach these 4" pads to my flex? Do I simply unattach the backing plate that comes hooked to the flex and voila the adapter bolts right on?

 

If you attach an improper backing plate to the Flex, it will destroy the motor. There is a properly designed smaller back plate for the Flex available through 3M, however it's not for hook & loop backed polishing pads like the ones Adam's sells.

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If you attach an improper backing plate to the Flex, it will destroy the motor. There is a properly designed smaller back plate for the Flex available through 3M, however it's not for hook & loop backed polishing pads like the ones Adam's sells.

 

Whew! I totally missed the word "FLEX"! I don't know what model Flex you have but the orbital one only has 1 back plate that works and that's the one that comes with it. This kit is NOT for the Flex polisher at all.

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Whew! I totally missed the word "FLEX"! I don't know what model Flex you have but the orbital one only has 1 back plate that works and that's the one that comes with it. This kit is NOT for the Flex polisher at all.

 

It would certainly work with the Flex rotary, however, I'd still pick the drill - their rotaries are hands down the worst I've ever used.

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It would certainly work with the Flex rotary, however, I'd still pick the drill - their rotaries are hands down the worst I've ever used.

 

Which model Flex are you speaking of? The Flex orbital back plate is not interchangeable. That's the big downside of that model. I don't think anyone on this forum is crazy enough to be using a Flex rotary.

 

will this just correct hazing? or will this actually correct sandblasting from being driven on the highway?

 

No it will not correct sandblasting, just hazing.

Edited by Junkman2008
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Which model Flex are you speaking of? The Flex orbital back plate is not interchangeable. That's the big downside of that model. I don't think anyone on this forum is crazy enough to be using a Flex rotary.

 

The Flex 340..3? I think. I call it the "Honda Rotary" - it's all revs and no torque :lol: And yes, to re-iterate the Flex Dual Action (3401 VRG) will not work with this plate. There is a 4" plate for it, but you would need to use pads from a Cyclo polisher.

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