Jump to content
Customer Service 866.965.0400
  • 0

Junkman's, How To Restore Your Finish - The Videos


Junkman2008

Question

The title says it all folks. In this 10 video series (1 hour and 18 minutes), you will witness me using various Adam's products to restore half of the hood on my 1979 Chevy El Camino. This car has not been washed in over two years. I usually let the rain take care of the dirt and it shows. This car is my daily driver and usually sits outside year round in the elements (that's 4 seasons in the state of Kentucky).

 

I have used the hood of this car for everything including cleaning my Corvette floor mats, various bench projects and as a storage area for my bar-b-que cook outs. It works as a good ladder in the garage too! Basically, every kind of abuse that a car's finish can see has been seen by this hood. If I can bring the shine back from the dead using Adam's products on this finish, your cars should be a walk in the park.

 

One important thing to note. This is the way I do things and is not a set in stone template of what you have to do. This is more of a documentation for folks who have little to no experience in professional paint care, and are looking for a direction to go in order to get started. You should use this as a foundation to learn about the products used in the video, but feel free to deviate as you become more familiar with the Adam's line. As you become more experienced, you may want to add to or take away from my process to make it more that of your very own. You can also feel free to do just as I do, as you will witness from the videos is a very effective method in restoring a superb shine.

 

I will add some text before each video which will be very important for you to read before watching the video. This should clear up any confusion that may occur from watching a particular video.

 

With that said, get your 3D glasses on and sit back in your easy chair. A "Junkman in His Garage Production" is about to spill onto your screen.

 

Hide the women and children. lol.gif

 

paint_restore_pic.jpg

 

 

 

Here are the videos!

 

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWlpT_QMGCU&feature=plcp&context=C35c9b29UDOEgsToPDskLLpdymruzWtxA32mMwesCL]Part 1 - Adam's Polishes Intro - YouTube[/ame]

 

Just what is says!

 

 

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Pq8IiDLAxY&feature=plcp&context=C331f4c9UDOEgsToPDskKOdWHXLHjnxeDJm1XU-2Es]Part 3 - Rinse & Paint Inspection - YouTube[/ame]

 

In this video, I rinse off the big dirt and dust. This is the very first thing you should do when washing the car. As I inspect the paint, you will actually hear the grit in the paint as I rub my hands across it. Normally, you never want to do this to your finish as any kind of rubbing on the car with your hands will cause immediate scratches. Since the paint on this car was in such bad shape, I did it for demonstration purposes only. Once your paint has been corrected, never do this or allow folks to do this to your paint.

 

 

 

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IHS9_6ycJuA&feature=plcp&context=C32ffa1aUDOEgsToPDskJONpytc8GSoHp7X7JfHfft]Part 4 - Clay Bar & Foam Gun Discussion - YouTube[/ame]

 

This video shows the technique used to determine if your finish needs to be clayed. A vehicle that resides in a garage is NOT going to have to be clayed as often as one that sits outside all year. Thus, claying is not a necessary step of paint correction unless it fails the clay bar test.

 

This video also discusses and demonstrates the use of the foam gun. As stressed in the video, the foam gun is not a high pressure device that blast dirt off the car. It is a device that soaks the car down with foam, which loosen the dirt and makes it safe to remove without scratching the finish.

 

 

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uc8InoK9zpE&feature=plcp&context=C3554376UDOEgsToPDskLGEQafCNmUcU5-M_8jZh8J]Part 5 - Two Bucket Wash & Claying - YouTube[/ame]

 

In this video, I discuss the practice of using 2 buckets to wash your car, utilizing the Grit Guard system. I also demonstrate and talk about the proper way to clay your finish.

 

One thing that I forgot to show in this video is my drying technique. What I usually do after washing the car is disconnect the spray nozzle and turn the water down to a slow flow. I run that over the car which causes all of the water to pool and run off the car. Once most of the water has done this, I use a leaf blower to blow it dry. I then finish up with a microfiber towel if necessary.

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vnPEYo6_3ZI&feature=plcp&context=C3b5c037UDOEgsToPDskIoMMfl02FSLV_eq2IZVTyV]Part 6 - Claying Inspection, PC & SHR Discussion - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

In this video, I inspect the results of my claying. I also assemble my PC and discuss the use of the PC and Adam's Swirl and Haze Remover (SHR) as compared to Adam's Fine Machine Polish (FMP).

 

Important Note: In my experience up to this point with using both the SHR and FMP, I have found that FMP did more to remove swirls and scratches than SHR. This is in direct conflict to what is stated in the Adam's website, and in the makeup of both products. In fact, the SHR is actually the more aggressive compound when you look at the molecule makeup. You should thus ALWAYS follow SHR with FMP. The reason I may have experienced different results could have been due to a multitude of factors including temperature, the condition or hardness of the clear coat that I was dealing with, or the amount of damage that I perceived was on the car.

 

With that said, you should follow the posted information on the website and assume that the SHR is more aggressive than the FMP. If in your comparisons you experience something similar to what I did, post your experiences here. Normal use according to the posted instructions will have you follow SHR with FMP, in order to lessen the damage done by SHR. You can try my technique, but you should follow Adam's instructions if you don't have the success that I did. Remember, Adam knows his products in a whole lot more detail than I do! The more I use them, the more I learn and thus my process will constantly evolve and improve.

 

Another thing that I did in this video which is not the norm is the amount of product that I used. Normally, I would have used half of the amount that you will see in the very last shot of the video. If I was in direct sunlight or if the surface of the car was hot, that amount of SHR would have created a stubborn mess. However, I was indoors on a cool night which are the conditions where I have had the most amount of success when correcting paint on a car. Because of those conditions, I was able to use more product and work the product longer which cut down on the amount of passes that I had to make. Do not use that much product unless the conditions are ideal for you to get away with it. Outside in your driveway on a hot summer day IS NOT the right condition.

 

 

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VMbZN6aaerg&feature=plcp&context=C32cd193UDOEgsToPDskKtN-woZvNUbDOwpCBt5Gq5]Part 7 - Applying Polish with The PC - YouTube[/ame]

 

In this video, I address how to apply polish with respect to technique and pressure. Working with polishes using the PC should be done at no higher a setting than 5. If you go higher, you need to be experienced in knowing when the product has completely broken down, which it will do much faster. If not, you will end up doing more damage to the finish than correcting. Working at a speed higher than 5 also makes the PC vibrate quite noticeably.

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lAZI8VeIGio&feature=plcp&context=C3ff34eaUDOEgsToPDskL_cpCa7d0Utey5BgpeDFUv]Part 8 - Polishing Inspection and Discussion - YouTube[/ame]

 

In this video, I inspect my polishing and discuss my results. I also recap my process thus far.

 

 

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlXJQR5ge9s&feature=plcp&context=C3a9ce59UDOEgsToPDskI-mGyU7i84qtjHHHX8Ds1z]Part 9 - Laying the Machine Superwax - YouTube[/ame]

 

Just what it says. I apply the machine Superwax, let it dry and wipe it off. I then inspect it in detail. One thing to note, I used more product than normal because of the condition of the paint. You will probably not be restoring paint on a car in this condition and thus, should only use as much product as the instructions call for. This was a unique situation that called for a little bit of an unorthodox approach.

 

 

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s-5gvQtXVL8&feature=plcp&context=C3a391a4UDOEgsToPDskKSydLUHnV1okelw-1ooSXQ]Part 10 - The Conclusion - YouTube[/ame]

 

I recap the entire process as I do it. Again, my way is NOT the only way, nor is it set in stone. As I improve and become more familiar with Adam's products, my technique will probably change. This however, should give you a foundation to start creating a process that works for you. Experience is the key. The more you use these products, the better your results will be.

 

 

 

 

Some photos from the experience:

 

 

meano_dirty_before.jpg

 

meano_dirty_before1.jpg

 

meano_dirty_before2.jpg

 

meano_dirty_before3.jpg

 

meano_dirty_before4.jpg

 

meano_dirty_before8.jpg

 

meano_dirty_before9.jpg

 

meano_compare.jpg

 

 

 

That's it boys and girls. Feel free to give me your input and question anything that you saw. All suggestions or questions are welcome so ask away!

 

The Junkman :thumbsup:

Edited by Junkman2008
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Answers 148
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters For This Question

Top Posters For This Question

Posted Images

Recommended Posts

  • 0

I have a question on prepping the car (with tape) before using the PC. Is blue painters tape acceptable? Also, do you have to go back and re-do the cracks by hand since they were covered by tape And didn't get covered in product. Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
I have a question on prepping the car (with tape) before using the PC. Is blue painters tape acceptable? Also, do you have to go back and re-do the cracks by hand since they were covered by tape And didn't get covered in product. Thanks

 

First of all, welcome to Adam's Forums! :hi:

 

Painters tape is perfectly fine but I don't bother taping the edges. I tape up the cracks so that polish doesn't get into the cracks. I am not worried about the edges of the car when dealing with a PC. You have to make a conscious effort to be careless in order to remove paint off the edges of the car with the PC. Check out my videos and watch what I do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
First of all, welcome to Adam's Forums! :hi:

 

Painters tape is perfectly fine but I don't bother taping the edges. I tape up the cracks so that polish doesn't get into the cracks. I am not worried about the edges of the car when dealing with a PC. You have to make a conscious effort to be careless in order to remove paint off the edges of the car with the PC. Check out my videos and watch what I do.

 

I've seen all your vids except the wet sanding. In fact that's how I found Adams Polishes. So after you peel the tape off the paint underneath is untreated? Is it ok like that? By the way thanks for the reference from youtube this morning… rivive polish lol!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
I've seen all your vids except the wet sanding. In fact that's how I found Adams Polishes. So after you peel the tape off the paint underneath is untreated? Is it ok like that? By the way thanks for the reference from youtube this morning… rivive polish lol!

 

When I said that I tape the cracks, what I meant was that I put the tape under the seams of the car to keep product from getting in the cracks, not to protect the edges. Thus, my edges get polished like the rest of the car. I don't have or want swirly edges.

 

adams_sandsr.jpg

 

Revive FTW! :2thumbs:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Wow, nice shine bro. You've got me convinced. I'm going to restock the arsenal with Adams products. It was between this and Zaino, but I went on their site and just got confused. These seem a lot more user friendly, plus there's a lot of support here. Thanks for clarifying the tape question also.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
Wow, nice shine bro. You've got me convinced. I'm going to restock the arsenal with Adams products. It was between this and Zaino, but I went on their site and just got confused. These seem a lot more user friendly, plus there's a lot of support here. Thanks for clarifying the tape question also.

 

That confusion and the time necessary to apply Zaino is the reason a lot of folks have switched from Zaino to other brands. The Adam's application process is more traditional and is what us "old guys" grew up doing. As you saw in my "Clay to Wax" video series, it's so simple that even a Junkman can do it. :D

 

By the way, the picture in my last post is after I removed the scratches with SHR and followed it with FMP. There is no wax on the car. Preparation has always been the foundation of my shine, not wax.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
Wow, nice shine bro. You've got me convinced. I'm going to restock the arsenal with Adams products. It was between this and Zaino, but I went on their site and just got confused. These seem a lot more user friendly, plus there's a lot of support here. Thanks for clarifying the tape question also.

 

 

Me too! I liked Zaino and really had no problems with it. I have inquired multiple times about certain products being placed in Gallon containers but with no luck. I find having gallon containers for some stuff is very convienent.

 

So ADAM'S it is. Hey if the JUNKMAN uses it then it must be good!

Edited by fdresq4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
Me too! I liked Zaino and really had no problems with it. I have inquired multiple times about certain products being placed in Gallon containers but with no luck. I find have gallon containers for some stuff very convienent.

 

So ADAM'S it is. Hey if the JUNKMAN uses it then it must be good!

 

Thanks buddy. :cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Hey Junkman. I'm a new member to the forum here and a new PC owner as well. I just want to say "thanks" for some great videos on how to detail properly. Very detailed (no pun intended), clear and easy to follow.

I was wondering if you had any advice or video on how to use the PC in tighter areas of the car where you can't get the entire buffing pad in contact with the paint. Areas like the grille, rear spoiler, door handles, mirrors and emblems. Most of the PC demos focus on an area like the hood which rarely has any obstructions. Hopefully there are no posts out there that I am missing that already address this topic.

Thanks Junkman, and great work on your videos!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Hey Mike, first allow me to welcome you to the forum! :welcomebanner:

 

I have a new video series that I am doing and that is one of the key things that I will be answering with these next videos. If you subscribe to my You Tube channel, you will be notified as soon as those videos are uploaded. Once uploaded, come back to my little corner where a thread and all the details about those videos (as well as the video themselves) will be posted. That is a frequent question that I get so i will address it in detail. :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
When I said that I tape the cracks, what I meant was that I put the tape under the seams of the car to keep product from getting in the cracks, not to protect the edges. Thus, my edges get polished like the rest of the car. I don't have or want swirly edges.

 

adams_sandsr.jpg

 

Revive FTW! :2thumbs:

Hi Junkman I am new to the forum, but have been reading it and watching your videos for some time. Not sure what you mean here about putting the tape under the seam. How do you get it under? Do you ever just open the door or what ever after your done, and wipe them down? well this is my first question, more later. And thanks for your help. Dave ps how do I get this post to go to normal size. when I go back to view it? It larger then the rest.

Edited by 2010vette
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
Hi Junkman I am new to the forum, but have been reading it and watching your videos for some time. Not sure what you mean here about putting the tape under the seam. How do you get it under? Do you ever just open the door or what ever after your done, and wipe them down? well this is my first question, more later. And thanks for your help. Dave ps how do I get this post to go to normal size. when I go back to view it? It larger then the rest.

 

Hello Dave and welcome to the forum. :welcomebanner:

 

By "under the seams", I mean that I will open the door (for example), and tape the seam so that once the door is closed, the dust cannot get into the cracks of the seams. I don't put the tape on the outside of the seam's edges where I will be buffing unless I am using a rotary polisher.

 

The picture that you copied is 1024x768. That is the size picture that I always post so you are seeing the actual size that I posted. Our forum is not setup to automatically re-size images.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
Hello Dave and welcome to the forum. :welcomebanner:

 

By "under the seams", I mean that I will open the door (for example), and tape the seam so that once the door is closed, the dust cannot get into the cracks of the seams. I don't put the tape on the outside of the seam's edges where I will be buffing unless I am using a rotary polisher.

 

The picture that you copied is 1024x768. That is the size picture that I always post so you are seeing the actual size that I posted. Our forum is not setup to automatically re-size images.

Oh I see you just tape to one side and let it hang across the gap. Doses the dust just stick to the tape then? Then remove the tape and wipe the edge of the panal to get product off. Or do you put a piece of tape on both sides? Or am I over thinking maybe it's bed time:D

Edited by 2010vette
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
Oh I see you just tape to one side and let it hang across the gap. Doses the dust just stick to the tape then? Then remove the tape and wipe the edge of the panal to get product off. Or do you put a piece of tape on both sides? Or am I over thinking maybe it's bed time:D

 

Well, you are thinking a little hard about this. The reason that I do this (and that is not all the time by no means), is when I am working in conditions that are not ideal. Usually, this means that I am in direct sunlight on a hot day and the surface of the car is hot also. This causes the product to create a lot of dust and that is what I try and keep out of the cracks. No, the dust does not stick to the tape. The tape only keeps it from going all over the place inside the cracks. That's the only reason I do it and the only time I do it. When I am working in my garage, I seldom use tape unless I am covering up a sharp edge on an emblem which can instantly destroy a pad or I am using a rotary of factory or thin paint.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

AJ, Will you give some thought about doing a video on how to use the PC on a C6 Corvette? Preferably a ZO6 or a grand sport. Most of what I see is just on flat panels like the hood. I will soon be using my PC on my Grand Sport for the first time, and as i look at the side and front ect. Not sure about the best way to attack all the contours. I'm sure people will get tips they can use on other cars also. Just a thought. Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

There's really nothing different about working on the side of the car. One thing that you will notice about working a contour is that the polisher will want to slow down. Thus, you have to be cognizant of your pressure when going over these areas (you want to make sure that you are not applying too much pressure which will cause the pad to stop spinning).

 

You will use the exact same techniques that you use on the top of the car but you have to support the polisher. If you get into a area where the size of the pad is an issue, you switch to the 4" focus pads. Does that make sense?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
There's really nothing different about working on the side of the car. One thing that you will notice about working a contour is that the polisher will want to slow down. Thus, you have to be cognizant of your pressure when going over these areas (you want to make sure that you are not applying too much pressure which will cause the pad to stop spinning).

 

You will use the exact same techniques that you use on the top of the car but you have to support the polisher. If you get into a area where the size of the pad is an issue, you switch to the 4" focus pads. Does that make sense?

It makes sense, I'll just have to give it a try. Thanks Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
I just live up the road in Winchester, you got any clinics

In the Louisville area in near future. Love the Love the videos

 

You treat me to some Texas Roadhouse and you can have your very own detailing clinic. Every clinic that I have done here in Louisville has been private for car club members only.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

I don't along to a car club. I guess being an Adams forum member

will have to do. Seriously, give me a time frame and after the first of the year

my wife and I will bring our 2000 Silverado (255,00 miles) over and we'll do a clinic

Hey we love Texas Roadhouse Best grilled pork chops on the

planet

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...