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I'm Upset... How do I fix this?


Cyclone
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So, I washed the truck today and it looks good again. I even used my Great White Drying Towel for the first time. *pause* While on that, if you own a truck, BUY THREE :lolsmack: *un pause* So I noticed a couple days ago, a big clump of bird poo on my tonneau cover. Yes, I neglected it and did not clean it as soon as I noticed it. I have been preoccupied this week with my wife's accident, my birthday, and my grandfathers surgery... yea, crappy week!

 

Ok, anyways, after washing the truck I noticed it left a dull area. I took some Swirl & Haze remover to it and proceeded to buff it (by hand). You can only see it now in the right lighting but I can feel it by hand (and I know its there)... What can I do? My only thought is a little bit of 2000 Grit wet sanding and then buff it back out, if that doesn't work then oh well... It is in the center of the tonneau too, the hardest dang spot to reach.

 

No, my cheap camera is not good enough to take a picture :(

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:hi: I would clay it first, then keep going over it with SHR until it is gone then Revive, than wax !:2thumbs:

It feels almost like the bird poop acids or whatever sunk into it and raised it a little bit? :confused: I dunno... I will try some more in the next couple days and see what happens if nobody else chimes in .

 

If the spot is in the center of the cover, there's a chance that it's drooping ever so slightly, causing water to pool in the center. You might actually be looking at a big water spot.

 

Nope, water does not puddle on my tonneau, It rolls off either side, or the front towards the cab.

Edited by Junkman2008
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Nope, water does not puddle on my tonneau, It rolls off either side, or the front towards the cab.

 

Sweet. Now we're left with your option: poop!

 

"Bird Excrement:

(Or insect excrement like Gypsy moth, June bug, Honeybees, etc) contain highly acidic concentrates (uric acid (pH 3.0-4.5) There main food source in summer is mostly insects, in the winter/ spring it’s berries, which are very acidic, which if left for any length of time the will cause the porous clear coat to occlude (a non-transparent ‘clouded’ area) or may cause etching (a depression in the paint or glass surfaces) Heat (vehicle paint temperature of 90oF+) creates a very aggressive reactivity of the acids that are present, which causes surface etching, so they should be removed without delay, at lower temperatures (40oF or less) there s no reactivity and therefore little or no etching."

 

From:

"Automotive Detailing Inside & Out; a Knowledge Base for the Perfectionist", by Jon Miller

 

Start by claying - but don't use Detail Spray as a lube. Instead use a capful of Adam's Car Wash (it's pH neutral) in a 32 oz. spray bottle mixed with distilled water. Then dry it immediately after claying by placing the towel over top of the spot and applying pressure - don't wipe dry. That will get rid of any acid left in the finish. What's left after that will determine what to do next.

Edited by Junkman2008
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Ok... well I don't think there would be anything left in it... Like I said, I have already washed the truck and hit that area twice with a applicator pad & swirl & haze remover.

 

Maybe I am dumb here, but I don't understand how a clay bar is going to remove "acid" ...

 

I probably already made it worse by rubbing it and buffing (creating more heat) over the area...

 

We will see how it looks tomorrow... maybe I will get lucky and the night time air will vanish it away (yea right)

Edited by Junkman2008
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Ok... well I don't think there would be anything left in it... Like I said, I have already washed the truck and hit that area twice with a applicator pad & swirl & haze remover.

 

Maybe I am dumb here, but I don't understand how a clay bar is going to remove "acid" ...

 

I probably already made it worse by rubbing it and buffing (creating more heat) over the area...

 

We will see how it looks tomorrow... maybe I will get lucky and the night time air will vanish it away (yea right)

 

Using the car wash for the lube is going, to a degree, neutralize any remaining acid - the clay bar is going to grab any sediment that's left in the etching.

 

If you can see it, but not feel the spot, your clear is damaged. If you CAN feel the spot, it can at least be leveled to be less noticeable.

Edited by Junkman2008
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The process of claying removes impurities from the paint. That's the short answer of what claying does. Check out this thread for a more detailed description.

 

Now for some clarification. Having something ON the clear coat and something IN the clear coat is two different things. Stuff on the clear coat can be removed with claying and polishes. Stuff IN the clear coat may have to be wet sanded out. I would NEVER recommend that you do this unless you already new how. Starting with 2000 grit sandpaper is not HOW for a novice!

 

Bird dropping usually etch their way into the clear if not addressed immediately, especially if the car has no wax on it. If you want that stuff out of the clear, wet sanding my be the only way to get rid of it. Keep in mind that you may create damage that is much worse than what you presently have and once you get the estimate on how much it will cost to repaint the area, you will probably wish that you would have left well enough alone.

 

Without actually seeing the damage, I can't really suggest the correct way to repair it. Thus, if you are the only one who knows it is there, you may want to leave it. If everyone can see it, then wait for my wet sanding videos. They may address you issue. Keep in mind, that trying to fix it may result in a costly repaint if you break out some sandpaper without knowing exactly what you ae doing.

 

Last of all, you will never get wet sanding damage out of the paint by hand. If you don't have a PC, you are wasting time and energy. I wish you were closer. I would just fix it for you.

Edited by Junkman2008
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Last of all, you will never get wet sanding damage out of the paint by hand. If you don't have a PC, you are wasting time and energy. I wish you were closer. I would just fix it for you.

 

Sorry AJ, I disagree with you on that one!

 

I have done plenty of wet sanding and always get it out by hand! A PC is much faster and easier, but you can do it by hand if you have the muscle and endurance of being patient with it :jester:

 

 

It got dark last night, I will look today to see how bad it is and report back. but I am working like 60 hours this week, so it might not be right away

Edited by Junkman2008
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I have done a lot of wet sanding on motorcycles where a machine just plain won't work. It sucks to do by hand and it takes a lot of time but it's doable!

 

Hey Cyclone, I have some 3M rubbing compound (safe for clears) that I use from time to time as it's a bit more aggressive. This may help...

 

Chris

Edited by Junkman2008
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You both are right, a loooooong time. Some folks have trouble removing scratches with a Porter-Cable. Imagine those same folks trying to remove scratches by hand... :willy:

 

I cannot wait to get my hands on a PC... If I can do what I have done by hand... A PC will make it look better than showroom quality!

Edited by Junkman2008
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