Jump to content
Customer Service 866.965.0400
  • 0

going mad


Sinisterc6

Question

hey guys, i stated using adams about 2 years ago, when i first made the switch i used a clay bar and detail spray, went over the car with SHR, revive and butter, it looked good but i used the orange pad which was too strong and it lightly marred my black paint. Adam gave me some advice and sent me a sample of fine machine polish and super wax and using the white/ black pads fixed me right up, ive been reapplying the FMP and MSW every 1-2 months during summer (dont drive during the harsh winters) it is also garage kept year round and rarely gets dirtier that a good dosage of detail can handle.

 

so now i went ahead and spet 6 hours using SHR on white, followed by FMP on white, buffed off, did FMP on white at a lower speed, buffed then MSW, the car does look good outdoors, my doors/ hood (when open) look like mirrors, however when i bring the car into the garage under fluorescent lights its not that pure black any more, should i clar bar the whole thing (passes the plastic bag test) it seems like something is cloudy underneath and my efforts are only locking it in, or is this the nature of fluorescent lights?

 

thanks a bunch for any input

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

My bet is the fluorescent lights are killing it. They wreak havoc on finishes and splach reflection every which way. The color temperature of the fluorescent light will change the reflected color of the vehicle.

 

We see this all the time with our new Acuras. Outside the color will look one way, with specific hues. Under the "devil's lights" many things can change. Also, flaws will be more prevalent under those lights.

 

Can you put smooth diffusers over the fluorescent bulbs? That may help the appearance of your car while under them.

 

I feel your pain...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

After you use the Machine Super wax do you wait 12 hours and buff again with a clean MF towel before using detail spray or buttery wax over it ? MSW is a sealant and needs to cure :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
After you use the Machine Super wax do you wait 12 hours and buff again with a clean MF towel before using detail spray or buttery wax over it ? MSW is a sealant and needs to cure :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

news to me, no i never let it seal.

 

Superdutydt - it is weird, i have an 07 C6, when i first brought it home i noticed a scratch, i used zaino to try and remove and that stuff does nothing in the way of perfecting paint, i switched to adams with SHR REVIVE Butter but ued the orange pad, not enough pressure, poor technique and marred my surface, i was given FMP and MSW to try and they brought back the shine but i always get the cloudiness, ive tried layering NXT over MSW and it takes it out a bit but not completely (probally not good idea to mix the adams and megs but im concerned with using my butter wax as it is over 3 years old now, i will top off my paint with butter on the next go around.

 

at this point im convinced that my efforts are unsuccessful because of my initial screw up, im going to clay my rear deck lid and tape off the surrounding areas, clay it down and repeat with Adams steps to swirl killing, if i see a difference i will be both happy and said, happy due to the shine, sad because ill have ALOT of work to do.

 

ill keep you guys posted, try to take a pic too

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
news to me, no i never let it seal.

 

Superdutydt - it is weird, i have an 07 C6, when i first brought it home i noticed a scratch, i used zaino to try and remove and that stuff does nothing in the way of perfecting paint, i switched to adams with SHR REVIVE Butter but ued the orange pad, not enough pressure, poor technique and marred my surface, i was given FMP and MSW to try and they brought back the shine but i always get the cloudiness, ive tried layering NXT over MSW and it takes it out a bit but not completely (probally not good idea to mix the adams and megs but im concerned with using my butter wax as it is over 3 years old now, i will top off my paint with butter on the next go around.

 

at this point im convinced that my efforts are unsuccessful because of my initial screw up, im going to clay my rear deck lid and tape off the surrounding areas, clay it down and repeat with Adams steps to swirl killing, if i see a difference i will be both happy and said, happy due to the shine, sad because ill have ALOT of work to do.

 

ill keep you guys posted, try to take a pic too

 

If you have no swirls, you shouldn't use compounds or the aggressive orange pad anymore. I'm thinking you used too much Superwax. If you want to start over, just wash the lid of with Dawn and start with a fresh palate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
If you have no swirls, you shouldn't use compounds or the aggressive orange pad anymore. I'm thinking you used too much Superwax. If you want to start over, just wash the lid of with Dawn and start with a fresh palate.

 

Thanks JM!

 

I actually just got out of the garage, i layed down a piece of tape and butter waxed one side, i worked it until it became clear, pulled the tape... mmm blacker so i went ahead and did the whole car, i dont usually swear but i said "S!*% thats shiny" when i wiped it away, im very excited it looks crazy even under flusescents.

 

i have some tips/ lesson ive learned through the past couple of weeks (broke down a mega detail into 4 smaller sessions)

 

- pressure, pressure, pressure, if you need practice put a weight scale on a counter and press down to see what 30lbs feels like

 

- no crossing products, i figured megs nxt had fillers and could give me extra pop... errrr wrong

 

- IOS is addicting, i started with my valve covers, then my entire engine bay, then i masked off all my trim and sprayed those down... its sickness in a can IMO

 

- you will get residue stuck in the gaps between pannels, even if you try to work along the gap as oppose to transversly to it, to remove dried residue you can use a credit card for for the thing gaps, take some blue painted tape, stick it together sticky side to sticky side and use that to scoop out residue

 

well im off to take a final exam, sometime in the summer when i have some time ill make a video showing off the difference each step of the adams process makes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

I had a friend with a black 84 T/A and always wondered why the car never looked really black. Came to find out that the original baint code had a lot of brown pigment in it. He had it painted using a BMW black when he restored it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...