Removing "orange peel"

[iiiJEFFiii]

Which one of Adam's Polishes and pad combination would you recommend to remove "orange peel" on a factory paintjob? How difficult is it? Is there a significant risk of damaging my paintjob?

[Cyclone]

Very good question...

 

I do not know if they will do it or not.

 

To my knowledge it would have to be a rotary device that would remove orange peel because it actually would create heat and soften the surface up to level the clear coat. Which is why most amateurs burn through and mess their paint jobs up.

 

The other way would be to wet sand the clear coat to get it level, which could be done with anything 2000 grit and higher, again though, burning through is a simple task without proper technique.

 

 

 

 

But wait for Dylan or Von Awesome or the other elite guru's here on Adam's to chime in. I am sure they will have something to say about it

[b8a4]

On show cars I think people sand the base coat to a smooth finish before hitting it with clear creating that peal free gloss.. On factory paint you may have to sand down the clear a tad...

 

Lets see what the Pros say..

[JoeR]

Polish's and pad's arent going to remove orange peel, it needs to be sanded. If you havent done it before, its very dangerous and you can ruin a paintjob very easily. Adam's doesnt have a compound heavy enough that I would wetsand a car with and buff it all back out. To get rid of the orange peel, your going to have to wetsand the clear, I have always done it with 1000, followed by 1500, and 2000. Buffed it all out with a Dewalt rotary and some 3M compounds.

 

It would take a ton of work to try and buff it out with a PC and your going to have to sand it finer with 3000. It can be done on smaller spots with 3000 and some SHR but that also takes time.

[Chewy]

I had one of my front fenders repainted this spring and when I got it back the lip had some orange peel left on it. I grabbed some 2000 grit and worked it down followed by 3000 and then used SHR and MP to get it to where it needed to be. Then the next day I had the clear bra put on it. Worked the bee's knees!

 

Keep in mind they sprayed 3 coats of clear on the fender so I had some room to work. Make sure you have enough clear to make it right.

 

Chris

[Sundog Detailing]

No Adam's does not have a combination to remove "orange peel", wet sanding the factory clear is best left to an experienced detailer as all auto makers are cheap and don't give you alot to work with. ihopemyrunonsentancemakessenceanddoesn'thurtyourhead:jester:

[mc2hill]

I agree with Chewy, the Swirl and Haze Remover on an orange pad using the PC will take care of the 3000 grit sanding marks.

I helped a detailer out last week and for payment he taught me the in's and out's of wet sanding (and I watched Junkman's video's as well - http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3223 ). I wet sanded my truck with 3000 a few days later, and the SHR cleaned up the sanding marks, and the Fine Machine Polish cleaned up the marks from the SHR. Now it looks great.

I would recommend working with someone that has done this before, or on a junk yard body panel, if you haven't done this before. Any errors are very expensive!

[jjwvette]

No Adam's does not have a combination to remove "orange peel", wet sanding the factory clear is best left to an experienced detailer as all auto makers are cheap and don't give you alot to work with. ihopemyrunonsentancemakessenceanddoesn'thurtyourhead:jester:

 

No but it hurt my eye's :lolsmack:

[iiiJEFFiii]

Thanks for all the quick responses guys! For now, I guess I gotta try to ignore it until its time for a new paint job. (or I get the courage to actually try and wetsand it myself )