Paint my 09 chrome Vette wheels?

[DCRANER]

Well, not really, but what about this thought.

 

The wheel surface behind the chrome spokes is a flat light gray / silver paint, a dry gritty finish, dirt sticks easy, hard to get real clean, even with GWC.

 

So, as my car is Cyber Gray Metallic I am thinking of having a body shop paint the painted wheel area the body color, then put a really good clear coat over the new paint.

 

Also, since my rotor vanes still drip rusty crap after washing , I am thinking of having the rotors zinc plated, then having the "hat" area of the rotor also painted the body color / clear coat. Not sure if heat will mess up the hat area paint.

 

This will make cleaning the entire wheel easier, maybe dilute the GWC to not hurt the clear coat.

 

So, any thoughts as how this might look?

[70'sChevyGirl]

I think you have a great plan!!!!

 

Maybe have someone Photoshop it for you. I would but I am PS illiterate compared to others.

[DCRANER]

I think you have a great plan!!!!

 

Maybe have someone Photoshop it for you. I would but I am PS illiterate compared to others.

 

No problem VetteGirl, you got a big block a$$smackin Vette, nuff said.

[Rich]

I'm gonna need new rotors and brakes soon. Something that DOESN'T RUST!! Sounds like you've got a plan!

[Superdutytd]

Well, not really, but what about this thought.

 

The wheel surface behind the chrome spokes is a flat light gray / silver paint, a dry gritty finish, dirt sticks easy, hard to get real clean, even with GWC.

 

So, as my car is Cyber Gray Metallic I am thinking of having a body shop paint the painted wheel area the body color, then put a really good clear coat over the new paint.

 

Also, since my rotor vanes still drip rusty crap after washing , I am thinking of having the rotors zinc plated, then having the "hat" area of the rotor also painted the body color / clear coat. Not sure if heat will mess up the hat area paint.

 

This will make cleaning the entire wheel easier, maybe dilute the GWC to not hurt the clear coat.

 

So, any thoughts as how this might look?

 

I worry about normal clearcoat getting too hot with those calipers mere inches (mm??) away from them. If you do make sure your painter uses them clearcoat made for wheels, or you could have them powdercoated and cleared maybe? As for the zinc rotors you could probably buy new rotors easier than having yours done. The calipers can be painted with one of those brake painting kits.

[WheelMaker]

Most paint won't adhere very well to chrome; if anything, it would be preferable to powder coat these areas. This will require masking the regions to be left chrome with special hi-temp tape, but it is possible.

 

The painted areas will look fine for a while, but will eventually begin to chip off due to impacts from small stones and debris, wheel weight installation/removal, etc. Careful prepping and use of a good adhesion promoter prior to painting will help, but keep in mind most wheels get at least twice the exposure to road debris than the painted areas of the vehicle.

 

Powder coating has it's caveats, too, but overall it is a much more robust finish. The trick is to find a powder coater who carefully controls the oven temperature; too much temperature over too long a duration can negatively affect the aluminum's temper, and therefore the strength of the wheel(s).

 

The CAD/Zinc plated rotors idea will help somewhat, but the friction surfaces (areas where the pads 'work' on the rotors) will quickly revert to raw cast iron, and again you'll see the rusty drips from the rotors inside the wheels. I have cross-drilled StopTech 355mm brakes on my Lexus, and the cross-drilled regions retain additonal water, compounding the problem.

 

My advice on the rusty water: invest in an electric leaf blower or use compressed air to dry out the wet areas of the rotors, calipers, and wheels immediately after washing. I usually wash the car in the late afternoon and let the car sit in the garage overnight after careful drying. This eliminates the chance of drips from the wheels, mirrors, door handles, etc.

 

Happy wheeling!

Edited August 18, 2009 by WheelMaker

[Superdutytd]

Okay nevermind the professional has spoken...

I don't think he was going to have the face of the rims painted though if I understood him correctly.

[Bill-V8V]

A power stick for keeping them clean and a leaf blower for drying and you'll be able to keep them looking brand new for years. I wouldn't go through with your plan, it would be more trouble than it's worth, but that is just my opinion

[DCRANER]

A power stick for keeping them clean and a leaf blower for drying and you'll be able to keep them looking brand new for years. I wouldn't go through with your plan, it would be more trouble than it's worth, but that is just my opinion

 

Yes, a radical idea on painting, but maybe at least redo the silver paint for a smoother finish as the dry / gritty finish just stains easy.

 

And by stains I mean my rotors, they drive me nuts. I tell you the truth, I wash the wheels / rotors with GWC, flush with tons of water until the vanes of the rotors is draining basically clean water. I pull the car in the garage and then have to sop up brown / black puddles at the bottom of the wheels, even sop up the rotors with paper towles. I let it dry overnight, then go for a ride. Result?, the wheels inside base is covered with sluge & stains. Like you poured maple syrup on the rotor vanes and had it sling crap all over the wheels.

 

Am I the only new Vette owner with this problem? The inside of the rotors / suspension pieces at the inside wheel is grease free, still clean as it's a new car.

[Superdutytd]

Yes, a radical idea on painting, but maybe at least redo the silver paint for a smoother finish as the dry / gritty finish just stains easy.

 

And by stains I mean my rotors, they drive me nuts. I tell you the truth, I wash the wheels / rotors with GWC, flush with tons of water until the vanes of the rotors is draining basically clean water. I pull the car in the garage and then have to sop up brown / black puddles at the bottom of the wheels, even sop up the rotors with paper towles. I let it dry overnight, then go for a ride. Result?, the wheels inside base is covered with sluge & stains. Like you poured maple syrup on the rotor vanes and had it sling crap all over the wheels.

 

Am I the only new Vette owner with this problem? The inside of the rotors / suspension pieces at the inside wheel is grease free, still clean as it's a new car.

That is annoying. I would try and fix the rotors first, or maybe try changing brake pads? Sorry I can't be more help.

[WheelMaker]

The rotors on the 'Vettes are vented; the rusty water is a result of water getting in there and eventually dripping out.

 

Not much you can do about it really... if you replace the rotors eventually, replace them with a coated rotor. Like I mentioned, the coating will wear off of the friction surfaces, but the coated "vane" areas (in the vented portion of the rotors) will be somewhat 'less bad' when washed. Basically on the uncoated OE rotors, those areas oxidize as soon as they get wet and you're seeing the results of that reaction.

[jjwvette]

Thanks for the info Bob...

[xcracer48]

In four wheeler racing we usually molycoat the rotors to keep safe from heat.

 

Also if you need any info on powder, moly, or ceramic coating go onto atvriders.com and talk to pappy in bk performance section under there sponsors on the forum! This guy has alot of knowledge and is very smart with this kind of stuff.

Edited August 20, 2009 by xcracer48