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Claying - How did I mess this up?


MitsukiGT

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So I watched the Junkman videos 3 times, felt very confident it what I was about to do.

 

My car was bought in February and had only been in touch less car washes until today.

 

This guys story is exactly like mine, except my paint isnt as bad.

http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3997

 

First I used the 2 bucket process to clean the car and it looked pretty good afterwards. Nice and clean. I couldn't see hardly any swirls\spiders after cleaning it. Even under the lamp my paint looked surprisingly good.

 

Next I rinse it off and leave it wet. I get my new claybar out, rip it in half, flatten it out on my clean windshield. Then I have my detail spray read to go.

 

With the car wet I spray a ton of detail spray down on the area I'm working, I appeared to use as much as junkman. So I used allot of pressure as junkman suggests. Unless I'm blind the clay just wont get dirty. So I rub harder and harder tot he point the hood starts to push in as I move. Clay still wont get dirty. wtf? I am almost constantly spraying DS as I move the clay in the area i'm working.

 

As the guy in the other thread said, the scratched in the hood are in the exact same direction I worked the area. I even worked another area in a different direction to prove my point. The clay it definitely scratching up the paint, but why? Is it supposed to?

 

Now my picture doesn't show the scratched as good as the other guy's does in the link I posted, but trust me, it is pretty bad.

 

I did do the entire hood, but I just got too depressed and stopped. So the damage is just the hood right now. I am afraid to do the rest of the car now.

 

1. Is clay supposed to scratch the paint? I thought it just removed dirt.

2. Why is my clay not getting dirty? If it isn't showing dirt then how do I know when to rework it?

3. It seems like claying makes forces you to use the PC, thank god I bought that too. How the hell do you clay and not have to use the PC?

 

I'd like to try and finish the car tomorrow, but not sure how to continue. The clean clay is really stumping me.

 

As you can see in the picture the top right is in the the up\down direction relative tot he photo and the bottom left is in the left\right direction relative to the photo.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=3259&d=1252193224

 

3890556747_5a51f5d9f3_o.png

Edited by MitsukiGT
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... Questions:

 

I still have some crap on the paint, mainly the roof that wont come off, even with some APC. Can I just move on to the PC and see if that removes it? Even using my finger nail the stuff seems to be cemented on there.

 

If it doesn't come out with the claying, move on to the PC. The PC and SHR will get a lot of stuff out of the paint. :2thumbs:

 

It is hard for me to get across in video how much pressure I use. I say that I use a lot of pressure which compared to a lot of guys, I do. However, I am not pushing the car down with the amount of pressure I use, just scrubbing the paint. Again, that's hard to convey in a video. My "lot of pressure" may be another guys "just a little" pressure.

 

As you get into this stuff, you will develop your own style. You will find out what works for you and implement that into your routine. Practice is what makes perfect and you will eventually get there. As I suspected, you were working on a hot surface and claying is usually hard to do in that situation. I know from all those HOT demos I've done at the shows!

 

At least you realize how much work it is to do it right. It is not a 4 hour job from start to finish as some think. Serious paint correction takes some dedication and time. I just got one side of my car to the point of laying FMP. That side is now ready for wax.

 

fmpready.jpg

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Can I use the PC on the bumpers of the G8? They are not metal, some type of plastic.

 

For those familiar with a G8, which areas should I polish by hand? I assume you want the full pad to be flat. So if I can't get the full PC pad flat on the area it is one to do by hand? I only have the 6" pads so they are my only machine option.

 

And is it normal to have to use DS after FMP? I was able to get a nice clear finish only wiping the SHR off, but it was kinda straky\blotchy after FMP and only wiping it off. Using some DS to wipe it off it was nice and clear again.

 

I've done 2 test spot, one on the hood, the other on the roof (I did this because I could easily see the scratches on the roof, it is hard to see on the hood). It looks to have removed 90% of the scratches, I see some randoms here and there, but I can live with 90% for my first go at it.

 

Thanks

Edited by MitsukiGT
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Can I use the PC on the bumpers of the G8? They are not metal, some type of plastic.

 

For those familiar with a G8, which areas should I polish by hand? I assume you want the full pad to be flat. So if I can't get the full PC pad flat on the area it is one to do by hand? I only have the 6" pads so they are my only machine option.

 

And is it normal to have to use DS after FMP? I was able to get a nice clear finish only wiping the SHR off, but it was kinda straky\blotchy after FMP and only wiping it off. Using some DS to wipe it off it was nice and clear again.

 

I've done 2 test spot, one on the hood, the other on the roof (I did this because I could easily see the scratches on the roof, it is hard to see on the hood). It looks to have removed 90% of the scratches, I see some randoms here and there, but I can live with 90% for my first go at it.

 

Thanks

 

As long as you can get the pad on the panel squarely yes, its fine to use the PC on the painted plastic bumpers. Work the areas where you can't fit the PC effectively by hand.

 

I always use a light mist of detail spray when removing the polishes.

 

From the sounds of it you either used too much FMP or didn't work it sufficiently. If you have post polishing streaks the polish wasn't fully broken down.

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Good to hear.

 

With FMP on the white pad you'll want to work the polish until its almost invisible. The polish finishes down really well and at the very end of working the section I like to back off the pressure a tad so the pad is just lightly in contact with the surface, this nicely jewels the paint and adds just a hint more gloss to the finished product.

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Just taking a break. I got the hood roof and top of trunk almost done. Still a long way to go! So far everything is going smooth, just takes time.

 

One question, is the pads supposed to give off dust? It seems to be working just fine but it is leaving a dusting of pad particles. They wipe off easy enough, just want to be sure I'm not doing something wrong.

 

The anticipation of the final product is driving me crazy. Looks like at least 2 more nights before I am ready for wax.

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Just taking a break. I got the hood roof and top of trunk almost done. Still a long way to go! So far everything is going smooth, just takes time.

 

One question, is the pads supposed to give off dust? It seems to be working just fine but it is leaving a dusting of pad particles. They wipe off easy enough, just want to be sure I'm not doing something wrong.

 

The anticipation of the final product is driving me crazy. Looks like at least 2 more nights before I am ready for wax.

 

Pads dusting can happen for a few reasons. The pads are dirty. Wash them tonight after you get done and let then dry over night someplace warm (not your dryer). Also, doing this in direct sunlight on a hot day will cause this problem too. Try spritzing the pad with detail spray to keep the issue down. Lastly, using too much product causes this problem to. Again spritzing the pad will keep this down to a minimum, but I also like to spritz the pad with detail spray instead of putting more product on the pad. This will activate product that is already on the pad and keep you from wasting product. It also helps clean the pad of excessive product.

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Try spritzing the pad with detail spray to keep the issue down.

 

From my experience today, spritzing will help more than you think. I did not do the spritzing when I applied the SHR and I will say I had a little dust problem. I will not say another word about the dust I had.

 

I sprayed when I did the FMP and MSW and could not find any dust.

 

 

Lastly, using too much product causes this problem to.

 

I am not going to say a word but trust me on this.

Edited by Junkman2008
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I think my problem was that the pad was getting saturated with product. It took me several minutes to get the pad clean again. I will definitely need to get the air compressor out to clean up the dust storm I made.

 

I stopped around midnight, and that was because I had to clean the pad, the dust was getting too annoying.

 

So it is safe to simply spray DS on the pad and move to a new section without using more product? I think I was doing too small of sections so the product started to build up. So far it is just the Orange pad that is dusting.

 

I ended up getting the hood, roof, trunk (top) and drivers side done. So I basically have half the car left to do.

 

Will wax protect the metal from rusting where the paint is chipped? About a week ago I got hit by a rather large rock and it had to happen on my hood. It left 2 small dents and 2 chips. So the metal is exposed. I really want to go get it fixed, but I am afraid they won't match the paint and it would stick out worse than the chips. It is right in the front of the nose.

 

Also do you guys have a video on hand waxing? I seen the one using the PC, but I also plan on using Americana over the MSW. Again, complete noob here.

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If the pad is completely saturated with product a shot to DS to reactivate it and a small drop of added product will be safe to use on the next panel.

 

Yes, wax will provide some protection if you have paint chips where the metal is exposed... its not the ideal solution, but it will keep the metal spots from spreading or rusting out as long as you keep the wax coat up.

 

Not much really to learn when it comes to hand waxing. Apply small amounts over the surface of the paint in VERY THIN LAYERS and buff off with a clean microfiber after it has dried... thats it.

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I just read the whole thread glad to hear you got the claying figured out. It will take some time to learn the PC process as well but you seem determined to get your car looking perfect so I'm sure you'll figure it out. My main problem when I started using the PC was that I used too much polish and DS. Having less than one year experience with the PC I'm by far no pro but I can get the results I want faster. Can't wait for some more pictures of your final results. Good luck. :2thumbs:

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LOL, just trying to do it right the first time ;-) I am FINALLY starting to see scratches with the halogen. Kind of fun when you can find the scratches, know how to remove them, and then actually do it!

 

Some more before\after of the passenger side door under the halogen and with my crappy camera phone, but youcan still see the difference.

 

berfore 1:

3905336101_a70e0053e4_o.jpg

 

after 1:

3905336145_00693628e4_o.jpg

 

after 2:

3906116126_a30411a122_o.jpg

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LOL, now that I am finally nearing the wax stage I have a few more questions.

 

1. Do I need to let the FMP cure?

2. Should I use soap\water after car is ready for wax? Or just DS?

3. How long should I let the MSW cure? I plan to coat with Americana after.

4. How many coats of each wax do I use?

 

BTW, just my front bumper to do and I need to white pad the drivers side. Almost ready!!!!!!!!

 

I'm going to take my time going over the drivers side with the halogen to clean up anything I missed the first time by. Passenger door needed 3 applications of orange pad to get them all out.

 

Thanks, this forum and all you guys and gals are awsome!

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1. Do I need to let the FMP cure?

 

No.

 

2. Should I use soap\water after car is ready for wax? Or just DS?

 

Detail Spray.

 

3. How long should I let the MSW cure? I plan to coat with Americana after.

 

You wipe it off after it dries. You come back after about 12 hours and wipe it down again.

 

4. How many coats of each wax do I use?

 

I don't do the multiple coats of wax, especially mixing them up the way you're talking. I see no need to do that.

 

BTW, just my front bumper to do and I need to white pad the drivers side. Almost ready!!!!!!!!

 

I'm going to take my time going over the drivers side with the halogen to clean up anything I missed the first time by. Passenger door needed 3 applications of orange pad to get them all out.

 

Thanks, this forum and all you guys and gals are awsome!

 

Good job. :thumbsup:

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