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Pontiac G8 Owners: Question about PC and SHR



Any fellow G8 owners out there that have done a swirl removal with a PC? I will be doing my G8 next weekend for the first time and am looking to see what methods you guys used for best results.


Did you use junkman's slow cut method?

1. 3 drops SHR on orange pad, DS, PC at speed 3

2. DS, PC at speed 3,

3. DS, PC at speed 3,

4. DS, PC at speed 5,

5. DS, PC at speed 6 (with pressure)


Did you need to go through all these steps to get the swirls out? I know that the clearcoat on these things is thin and soft, so I just want to be sure not to over-do it. Thanks! :thumbsup:

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I did mine a couple weeks ago. I used Junkman's slow-cut to begin with because I didn't know what it would take. First off, my car wasnt too swirled. Just some typical swirls and light scratches. Once I had done a couple of panels I figured out the most efficient way for me. I started by working the product ( SHR on orange pad) at 3 around the area. I then sprayed the pad with DS and turned it up to 5 for 2 to 3 more passes. (A pass being working the product until it disappeared then respraying the pad with DS).

Once done with that, I didn't feel the need to throw on the yellow pad. I went straight to the white pad with some FMP. That seemed to work better at 3. I just kept making passes, wetting periodically with DS and adding more FMP if needed ( by needed, I mean the DS stopped "re-activating" the product)

That seemed to work for me. Is your car badly swirled?

The thing with the G8 is that the clear is tough to figure out, but after a panel or two you'll get it. The trunk takes a while given the sharp angles and muliple surfaces. Just watch out for sharp edges as the clear coat is particularly thin there. While this did work for me, I would still use the slow-cut to determine what works for you. Hope that was helpful.


Is the sport red a metallic? If so, the polish will really bring out the flake. It is unbelievable. :rockon:

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First I found Adam's updated video very informative, watch it:




After watching that video I revised my process.


1. Make sure the area you work in is properly light. This is so very important. Get comfortable with your halogens before your even start. Be absolutely sure you can easily see each swirl\scratch in the area you are working before you start. If you can't see them, then you will never know if you fixed them until it is too late.


I made this mistake myself, I didn't use the light to my advantage and had to re-do allot of areas once I found how to see the scratches. Trust me, they are there if you never detailed your car. Reposition the light until you see them.


2. Work in small sections. 18''x18'' or so. And use Junkman's tip of the mark on the back of the plat to see if the plate is rotating.


3. I started the very 1st 18x18 section with 3 pea sized drops on the orange pad. I set to speed 3 just to spread it out. Then I upped the speed to 5 and made 2 passes in opposite directions using as much pressure as I could and still allowing the PC to rotate. You must use pressure, and allot more than you think. See Adam's video in that link I posted for an idea. Then I hit the pad with a spritz of DS and upped the speed to 6, then made 1 pass using allot of pressure again (Through trial and error I found this is what MY car needed). Next I moved on to the white pad, 3 pea sized drops of FMP, spread at speed 3, then 2 passes in opposite directions at speed 6 using the most pressure I could, but allowing the PC to still rotate. Then I wiped the area down with DS and carefully inspected. In almost all areas I was done at this point, only once I had to re-work the area.


4. After the first 18x18 section only use 2 pea sized drops and a spritz of DS. This is VERY important, trust me, I learned the hard way. This is to try and keep the pad from building up with product. If it builds up you will get ALLOT of dusting and have to work the area MUCH longer as the pad will be saturated with product and can't cut like that. Just watch your pad after each 18x18 section, if it looks like product is caking up in the pores then just do the next panel with only DS and no extra product.


5. Again, don't be afraid to apply pressure with the PC, you WON'T burn the clear or paint. Just no way.


Here are some results of the method I just posted.





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That Pacific Slate looks sweet! Grrrr8 job!




Outstanding work!


The thing with the slow cut process is you want to use it on a pad that has plenty of product on it. Say you start the process by doing the 3 drops at a setting of 5 with 9-14 pounds of pressure. As the pad starts to fill up, you can start implementing the slow cut which will clean the pad and utilize all that product in the pad that you would normally just wash down the drain.

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Slow cut is more a method to help you find what level of speed and pressure you'll need, you can shorten up the process once you've played with one area and nailed down your "what will it take to correct the paint" basis.




You can also utilize the slow cut when your pad starts filling up with product. You'll notice that it will bring the pad back to life. Remember, it was originally designed to be used with paste type polishes but it also works with polishes of the consistency of SHR once enough polish is on the pad.

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